Sk8man

I believe the short answer is "yes you do need the same transducer" (or one with the same configuration) to effectively achieve the intended results. This could however be either a thru hull or transom mounted type. This is to get the most from your unit (e.g. DI or SI etc.)There may be other manufacturers (e.g. Airmar) that make a compatible one too. It may still be possible to use the unit with a standard (non-SI) but matched transducer but you won't get the special features out of it. I'm not a Humminbird guy though so this may be different than the Lowrance units that I am familiar with.

Is it always a great idea to hook both motors to the same gas line.....maybe not. I keep mine separate for a reason: if something happens to the fuel line itself or contaminates the gas etc. you're screwed and when these things happen it seems as though it is usually at a time of vulnerability (e.g. storm coming and you're miles out etc.). I know it can be a pain refilling a kicker motor gas tank but the chances of both motors going out on two separate lines is much more remote than if both are tied to the one source. Just food for thought.

Good luck with it. Sounds as though it is a "fixable" issue anyway.

Did you check closely to make sure it wasn't the same one coming back time and again?

I think you will be a very happy camper Dave

Allthough there could be a number of possibilities a couple things come to mind. The fact that you lose sight oof the downrigger when this happens suggests that it may be transducer related and it may be going out of the cone angle. Check to see that there isn't a crack or break in the transducer cord especially at the point it enters the transducer. I know you previously had a Lowrance transducer in the spot but was it exactly the same shape and size transducer? I would double check the positioning of the transducer following exactly Lowrance's specs relating it to your hull scenario....the face of the transducer should be parallel with the ground not your hull shape itself e.g. curvature). Usually electrical interference will present as dots or clusters of them rather than vertical lines so I'm thinking it has more to do with the transducer situation itself. If it does turn out to be electrical in nature using suppressor type spark plugs may help if you don't already have them. You also might want to check to see that your power wire for the unit is routed away from other wires to avoid cross feed from other nearby wires that may be vibrating or moving as you bounce. Just a few thoughts of the top of my head I'm no electronics wizard

I believe there is normally a sticker on the EZ Steer connector stating that the tension is factory adjusted and messing with it can be a problem.

I guess I would be thinking either someone living nearby, "inside job", or someone also with boat there as most marinas have lighting and often the possibility of cameras and of folks around which would deter many "would be's" not knowing the situation. I'd also be watching things like Craig's list and Ebay etc. and hopefully you've given the serial number to the police for potential recovery. It really sucks and that feeling of being "violated' sure isn't pleasant and you certainly have our sympathy.

Dave - I had a Convector 55 right out of the box where drag didn't work....bought the Daiwa instead and very glad I did. Over 20 plus Daiwas and never a problem. I also have Okumas as well but as mentioned the drags aren't up to the quality of the Daiwas unless Tuna Tom retro fits them with the better carbon fiber drags. Brian's suggestion is the way to go in my opinion Dave. I don't think you'll be sorry.

Nice going Mike and nice healthy looking bow

I have a 300 ft. copper and 450 ft of 50 lb Power Pro backing on mine but I don't remember if it is 32 lb or 45 as I use both and have a bunch of copper setups.

:lol:

The WD40 thing has been around for years but is mostly a myth or superstition and it is a pollutant so with all the legitimate scents out there today why not go with one (or more) biofriendly one of them. The shad scent seems to work pretty good for me and I use it on attractors as well as flies.

Daiwa 57LC high speed comes with a power handle good capacity and carbon fiber drag standard with it and back it with 40 or 50 pound Power Pro braid. I have two of them and they work flawlessly one with wire and one with copper. Although you don't need a line counter for copper it is nice to have versatility if you decide to switch to other options. Features: • 3 Stainless steel ball bearings • Power mesh drive for maximum winding power • Machine cut bronze gears • Automatic clutch engagement • Anodized, high-tensile forged aluminum spool, super strong yet light weight • Direct drive built-in line counter (measures in feet) • Machined Aluminum Spool • Ultimate Tournament Carbon drag • One-piece composite frame • Helical Cut Gears • Spool Click • Model: SG57LC3B • Action FW / SW: XXH / H • Bearings: 3 BB • Gear Ratio: 6.1:1 • Line Per Handle Turn: 42.9" • Line Capacity (Lb. Test / Yards): 20/580 • Drag Max: 20 Specifications Model # SG57LC3B Gear Ratio 6.1:1 Bearings 3 Retrieval Right Hand Reel Weight 19.6 oz. Mono Line Capacity lb./yds. 20/580, 25/430, 30/330 Braided Line Capacity lb./yds. 40/830, 50/650, 60/550 Max Drag 20 lbs. Line Retrieval 42.9" per turn