Sk8man

Lets hope the silvers wake up soon out there Bob as the temps start moving up

Yeah but..... Emperor Cuomo needs all the states money for the Tappan Zee bridge rebuild. He is probably hoping they will rename it in his honor to give him free publicity for his future run for the Presidency

Hop is right and he definitely knows what he's talking about Not worth chancing the wrath of the Seneca gods.

I tie my own flies and usually stay within the range of 18-30 inches with the most commonly used about 20-22 inches. No swivel on the fly leader just a loop. The flashers or spinneys already have swivels/snaps on them just fasten to them.

It has become tougher and tougher to get good fish out there even when you are real familiar with the lake so don't feel bad

Just an FYI but the receipt for the bait is good for 10 days.

Yep.

I previously posted this regarding the same question: I can't answer the whether it is worth the $150 or not but where I find one useful is in determining where my lines actually run depth- wise and in the desired temperature range. It is most useful when and after the thermocline forms usually around mid to late June or so I use it with coppers and leadcore primarily but it works with a dipsey setup as well. I also use it in summer to find a starting point for the thermocline for my Seth Green rigs on the Finger Lakes as it can give you a temperature profile at 5 ft intervals down to 100 ft which is what I am mainly interested in then. I attach mine to a downrigger when totally still in the water and I have a recording sheet for 100 ft at 5 ft intervals and I run it down and then back up and record the data at th 5 ft.intervals and look for the area where the temp changes the most radically and that will be the thermocline so I set my lines so I am fishing within and slightly above it (also taking into consideration specific species preferred temps which may or may not be as accurate or valid as some folks may think) as I am not interested in lakers much of the time I fish. This method only gives a starting point which is better than nothing but the thermocline varies in the water column in terms of depth and in various parts of the lakes to so it isn't foolproof and it isn't momentary like say a Fishawk X series but is better than nothing for someone on a tight budget.

A couple things come to mind.....first of all I know with my Optimax it needs at least over a half charge to actually start the motor so if it drops below it it will try to turn over but not start. Second the battery core may be bad or individual cells bad and under a heavy draw it could appear dead yet if just tested without putting it under a draw and it may APPEAR OK. If it were me I need to rely on a good solid battery and not take chances so I'd get a new one....but that's me

Pete you are a natural instructor and I really enjoyed this video as well as learned a great deal from it.Thanks for doing it. You also have a PM Pete.