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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Sk8man
    I'd be glad to try them out too :>)
  2. Sk8man
    As far as the 50% goes I think some of it relates to the lure itself on the slider as well as the shape of the snap on the swivel. I stopped using coast locks way back when for that reason. If you use a swivel snap that is very rounded it may not get as "hung up" on the mainline and travel a bit further. The same goes for heavier spoons they do tend to travel further down the main line. Your speed is also a factor the bow in the main line tends to be more pronounced the faster the speed of the boat and may stop the lure further up.. Just more things to think about I guess
  3. Sk8man
    SwedishFish I don't want you to think I was criticizing your boat or the size of it as that is certainly not the case. Especially so as I spent 22 years in a 13 ft. Whaler that ventured to the middle of Lake Ontario more than once but I have also hung up two Seth Greens at once and I know fully the forces exerted on a small boat in that siituation and it can sink you if unlucky and that is what my comment was directed to. Safety first fishing second
  4. Sk8man
    I can't answer the whether it is worth the $150 or not but where I find one useful is in determining where my lines actually run depth- wise and in the desired temperature range. It is most useful when and after the thermocline forms usually around mid to late June or so I use it with coppers and leadcore primarily but it works with a dipsey setup as well. I also use it in summer to find a starting point for the thermocline for my Seth Green rigs on the Finger Lakes as it can give you a temperature profile at 5 ft intervals down to 100 ft which is what I am mainly interested in then. I attach mine to a downrigger when totally still in the water and I have a recording sheet for 100 ft at 5 ft intervals and I run it down and then back up and record the data at th 5 ft.intervals and look for the area where the temp changes the most radically and that will be the thermocline so I set my lines so I am fishing within and slightly above it (also taking into consideration specific species preferred temps which may or may not be as accurate or valid as some folks may think) as I am not interested in lakers much of the time I fish. This method only gives a starting point which is better than nothing but the thermocline varies in the water column in terms of depth and in various parts of the lakes to so it isn't foolproof and it isn't momentary like say a Fishawk X series but is better than nothing for someone on a tight budget.
  5. Sk8man
    Suggestion - Don't mix the two although folks do it but if for some reason they come together you have a real mess especially with wire
  6. Sk8man
    My hunch is that a true silver finish such as the Sutton reflects better in the water than say nickel or chrome but the little individual facets on the hammered spoons reflect light more directionally with light hitting and bouncing off so that there may be more of a chance of the "glittering" in the sunlight being seen. Actually "who knows?
  7. Sk8man
    I'm with Rick and Dave on the free floating slider. I have used them since the mid seventies and they catch a lot of fish. Once you get your system down they can produce some nice fish sometimes even on the way down in the prop wash . I've also used the fixed cheaters and before that used to stack rods but stacking isn't very economical as it counts in your rod allotment and is just one more thing in the way. The fixed cheater can be useful when the fish are concentrated in the thermocline in the summer and you want to keep the lure within that range but over the years the free floater has been more productive especially with rainbows on the Finger Lakes and steelies on Lake O. You do want to keep your leader length within the span of your rod though especially if you fish solo so that you can net the fish without hand lining them (which can be a problem with kings when you value your fingers ). I usually run them on 8 1/2 rods so I keep the length to 6-8 ft. A lot of guys run them shorter. Using single hooks helps a little sorting things out when after high speeds and multiple turns you experience a "wrap up" when you release the rigger. Much of the time I run smaller lighter spoons as the slider as over the years I've connected more that way for whatever reason (e.g. action) and I think the longer the leader used the less "constricted" the action is relative to the main line (although I know folks who run 2ft sliders successfully). For either stackers or fixed cheater I use a little "gizmo" I made up for this purpose although I have also used just a rubber band too (see pic). It is basically a trot line holder for catfish etc. with a duolock snap held by shrink tubing. It stays fastened (snapped onto) to the downrigger cable in position but will slide up it at the end when the downrigger is retrieved. I use very small rubber bands that girls use in their hair (no comments please )
  8. Sk8man
    Some stubborn goo responds to either nail polish remover or lighter fluid but test the finish beforehand. For shining silver either silver polish (usually near the furniture polish in store) or if you reload cartridges a shaker with walnut husks does a great job with some of the polish used for cartridge casings.
  9. Sk8man
    Lookin good Mike!
  10. Sk8man
    :lol:
  11. Sk8man
    I think you may have anticipated things right in your question. It can be done but in most cases you may encounter problems because the dipsey will be going back and forth sideways (to some unknown degree) and could very well get into the downriggers especially and this would be pronounced with any turning. Some of it depends on how deep and how long the leads are on the downriggers too. If the downriggers were running very short to the ball and deep you might be OK but is it worth chancing? This could be a real problem with a king on any of the lines. It may sound bizarre but you could run the center dipsey rig out to the depth you want and fasten a balloon on the line to float it out and away from the other stuff as they do in the salt water environment. If the downriggers were down deep you could be OK with a fish on the dipsey and either disconnect or pop the balloon on the way in. I know it sounds crazy but it works.
  12. Sk8man
    The only things I edit in my posts are misspellings, omissions. or if I think things may be unclear to others in the way I have stated them. I don't have to "backpedal" on anything and for the record many of my positions regarding big brother, the Constitution, and governmental intervention are similar to yours but I don't use the perch issue to get on a soapbox to espouse my views on that. I took an oath to uphold the Constitution when I joined the military in 1963 and I continue to this day to believe it to be the best document ever written.
  13. Sk8man
    Yeah I was just taking a shot at busting them while I had the opportunity....great bunch of guys and hardcore fishermen (don't tell them I said that though around derby time )
  14. Sk8man
    I'm surprised you are still living in the United States after all that
  15. Sk8man

    Conesus inlet

    Sk8man replied to BSmaster's topic in Walleye

    Yeah not all that intimate but at least the males don't have to listen to "I have a headache"
  16. Sk8man
    Very encouraging....WTG
  17. Sk8man
    Sweet!
  18. Sk8man
    Some good advice. I had the connector rod on the front of the two motors and my last boat and it worked beautifully. The EZ Steer on this one was used for awhile until I realized that I could steer both motors with just my big motor because of the close match up with my extra long shaft kicker (25 inch shaft like the big motor). If the EZ Steer is conected to the back of the motor and for some reason you have to disconnect it while on the water it is quite a job reaching way out there.....just something to consider especially in rougth water on Lake O
  19. Sk8man
    I've been using various tapes and paints etc. including making my own lures and flies etc. since the 1970's and these tapes by far surpass anything I've ever seen.....very cool Carl!
  20. Sk8man
    Ted they both work well but I know sometimes the F-7-9's work better than the J-7 -9's early in the season for some folks for the browns but I like letting the fish sort it out by trying one of each and seeing which they prefer. The J-9-11's work too and I think they tolerate speed changes better than the solids and I generally start going larger (J-11's) as the Spring progresses such that when the sawbellies are in spawning they tend to match up better with the adult size of the bait.
  21. Sk8man
    That should work out OK as the hill would be blocking you somewhat on that west side exposure off the drop off.
  22. Sk8man
    One of the things that may come into play is the distance between your big motor in an extreme turning situation. It is tough to judge exactly from a pic but it looks pretty close to me in that situation....remember too that the shorter the connector rod extends the less turning radius you have. You should be able to tell by trying it out before installing the EZ steer and how it impacts your big motor. It looks as though you have the room for a bracket on there if it doesn't work that way and a bracket should bring the motor more to the left (in the pic) and maybe up a bit. If a bracket is used you'll also need to consider whether it will place the shaft/prop higher in the water as you want it down at/near the bottom edge of the boat but also be able to get it out of the water when you are under power with the big one. P.S. I had to move one of the tow eyes on mine to put the base for the bracket
  23. Sk8man
    One of the things that strikes me after listening to Longbows very unfortunate experience is that probably every marina out there has at one time or another had a negative result but most have a lot more positives and especially when they have good mechanics working for them. The really unfortunate thing is if you are that one person who happens to have it happen it leaves a very sour taste in your mouth despite your being in that less than 1 percent of the folks that had work done. It is also true of the motors and boats themselves kinda like cars....there are always "lemons" out there and if you are unlucky to get one it is a terrible experience. I guess the important thing is to keep things in perspective too.... Longbow gives us a good example of when things don't go as planned but over the long haul most of the things come out right and business reputations are important in this regard. Although I didn't buy my boat at Arney's (they don't deal in Whaler's ) I have been familiar with them since the 1970's and I have known many folks and close friends who have done business with them and John Love in particular and I have never heard a bad word about the business or him.
  24. Sk8man
    Good quality ball bearing swivel (e.g. Spro) (#2, 3) for most things and larger for terminal of wire dipseys. I use Duo Lock snaps in stead of coast locks on the ball bearing swivels for the very reason you mentioned - rounded wider angle for the lures for full action capability. Sorry but I don't have the numbers handy but Cabela's has the stuff.
  25. Sk8man
    I guess that is why my wife said a while back "Why is it that all your hobbies are so expensive"? followed by "Do you actually use all that stuff"? Easy reply: "Yup"
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