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Everything posted by Sk8man
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Hughes 6/13
Sk8man replied to Frogger's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
I knew I shouldn't have taunted Bob before we went out because it was the 13th and my lucky number is 12 The water last night was about as good as it gets and beautiful sunset as well. It was a great family outing you had there Mike ....nice connection of the generations Thanks for the fun time Bob! -
If you have any recessed rod holder holes on the gunwales you could get a gimbal mount (Cannon) and mount the board to it and that way it would be movable and all you'd have to do to clean it is dunk it in the water holding on to the gimbal tube. The mount is a little pricey new but Ebay may have one used at bargain price or perhaps on LOU. You'd also be at the side of the boat for easier access and washdown etc.
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I'm not currently a member of FLT but I've fished a couple tourneys with them with Jason and John is right they are a great bunch of knowledgeable guys with a wealth of experience and are some of the best fishermen on the Finger Lakes despite many of them being "southenders" :lol:
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Dick is right... that info on the Bloodrun site will give you a real good jump on things.
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Might want to put some padding around your new boat Nick and maybe even bring a chain saw with you
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I don't think the particular object (e.g. flasher) you use is the most critical part of the equation. The trick is to attract the fish by some sort of commotion and then present the bait (spoon, fly etc.) as something vulnerable or wounded trailing behind the commotion (which may of may not represent a school of fish or perhaps a fish that has hit some bait and the lure trailing is thought to be something it wounded and you're trying to "trigger" the aggression or feeding response. There are various ways to set this up ranging from hooking a blank flasher or dodger right in back of the downrigger weight without anything on it and having your actual lures trailing from slightly above it and behind and a slider can even used above the main lure to add further enticement.. The most common setup is to have the lure actually trailing the flasher or dodger itself at various lengths. At different speeds various flashers or dodgers (or Spin Doctors) will create a much different effect in the water (e.g. level of turbulence) and to the degree that this mimics something the fish is interested in each will have varying success so it is advisable to pay close attention to details (and perhaps record it down) when something does work and repeat it as closely as possible for that particular setup regardless of what is being used as the attractor. As has been mentioned before there are a lot of "gimmicks" out there aimed at attracting the fisherman's wallet rather than fish.
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thumburn makes a good point. There is a time and place for all these tactics and if you are able to do it dedicating rods and reels to specific setups is the way to go so that you can flexibly adjust to whatever conditions you find out there.
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It is kinda like saying "Do I want a lion or a tiger for my pet" They are both very different "animals" with quite different 'habits". In this a case the usage is quite different. The wire lines let you get quite deep and often involve using a dipsey diver and an attractor with a fly or spoon in the most common instance with the wire line cutting through the water in conjunction with the dipsey (or it could be a weight). The copper setup is usually rather more of a "weighted topline" approach to achieving depth and distance behind the boat most commonly with a lure by itself but it can also be used with a dipsey but the drag is greater in the water. The copper can be deployed off either inline or big boards (preferably the latter because of the drag in the water). To use wire off boards it is much trickier but can be done. With both you have the be VERY careful to let them out slowly to avoid kinking them. With thecopper you have more severe depth limitations because most reels for them will only tolerate about 600 ft max with backing (typically braid) at most and if you ever try reeling in that amount you will probably wish to run "shorter coppers" after that experience You can easliy get 1000 ft of 30 lb stainless stranded wire on many reels and achieve greater depth and this becomes important as the summer moves on and the thermocline moves downward in the water column and the fish go deeper. The wire rig then becomes more versatile. They both have their advantages but I much prefer wire over copper if I only had one choice as it is more flexible in application but coppers are very "deadly" as well when used smartly.
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Many of the guys on here will say don't use a swivel ....use their favorite knot . I've found that the #8 is the largest (power swivel) that will fit through the eyes of the rod and line guide on my various rods and it is rated at 50 lbs.. The number 10 seems too small to make the connection especially with copper
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Thanks to all who post
Sk8man replied to moog5050's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
There are indeed a lot of great folks on this website who share freely great information that we all can learn from. One of the unusual aspects is the fact that many of the charter guys do this despite the fact that they make part of their living using this information. They deserve our support wherever possible. Hats off to Vince, Rick, Matt, Rob, Sean and the many others on this very special website who do so. We all fully appreciate it. -
They can be used (e.g. Church TX 44 boards) but keep in mind that longer coppers have a good deal of drag in the water. I believe that is the main reason that Gambler mentioned that big boards are the more common option for running them. The inlines such as the TX44 can run up to 300 ft or so coppers but you may have to modify the boards to run coppers acceptably (involves shifting the weights and bending the release arm). Bloodrun Tackle has a section on their website that describes the recommended modifications in detail. If you use braid as your backing it is also advisable to replace the plastic release pins with metal ones. They are available on the Bloodrun website as well as at Calumet Marine (tell them which boards you have so they can send the right pins).
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The best part of that little Whaler came at the end when I sold it.... I received $300 more than I paid for it after 22 years of use
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I guess it boils down to whether you feel like laying out the $$ for a reel that will fully do the job regardless of what length of copper you decide to use with the amount of backing you feel comfortable with. The 50 series reels are the way to go whether Okuma or Daiwa or others and their drags tend to be "beefier" if you decide to go that route and if affordable you'd be well off to buy a pre-rigged setup by Bloodrun or Atomic etc.. The original question was whether the 47 LC would "work" as a copper setup with what you have.
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suttontroller94 - I had the Sport Model with the steering wheel in the center not at the starboard side like most. I had the mahogany seats that went totally across the width and actually had my 4 ft boom (Rivieras then Cannon electrics) downriggers mounted to the center one that I sat on and 15 ft. outriggers mounted to the dash crosspiece. I had so much equipment on it that during ESLO derbies it became a problem as many boats would come up too close to me to take pics The real beauty of it was being able to steer with my leg or foot while fighting fish
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Hard to put an exact price on them as they are used spoons and four of them are spoons for jerking copper (fixed hooks not on rings) not trolling but I can tell you that Sutton spoons are ALL good spoons and some of that is related to the real silver finish as well as the thin material they are made from which gives a superb fluttering action. From the looks of things recently they may soon become a thing of the past so if you can buy them at a reasonable price (i.e.one that you can afford) I'd jump on them. I have had literally hundreds of them over the years and still have probably 150 left and they are "golden". I'd give up any of my other spoons before parting with them. The 22 is close to the shape but a little larger than the 44 and works about as well. The West River is a little heavier and not a "flutter" spoon and works well from a downrigger or a top line or trolled from leadcore or copper by itself. Also be aware that where the finish may be messed up a bit you can still use reflective tape very successfully with them to "jazz" them up and they work fine. They are especially effectiveon the Finger Lakes where they were designed for and although they work on Lake O they are not real sturdy for large kings. All but the very smallest (e.g. #8 etc.) I have changed the hooks to stainless Siwash single hooks by cutting off the HOOK not the solid ring on the spoons. Most of the spoons work best at relatively slower speeds (e.g. 2 mph or less) but the smallest ones can tolerate higher speeds.
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The only thng I use NON ball bearing swivels on is sliders on the downriggers because it doesn't seem to make a big difference there and when they get tangled it isn't as expensive to lose them. I have found through experience that ONLY the SOLID RING ball bearing swivels are worth having nomatter what brand you use
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I know when I was fishing out of my 13 ft Whaler there were times when a large fish would actually pull the boat backwards a bit while fighting and it helped having the rods forward a little so they didn't tangle was helpful while fishing solo. It is a whole different ballgame fishing by yourself and definitely something to be taken into consideration