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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Another consideration is the fact that if/when (can be often) you are dealing with a north, NW or NE wind you may be able to get out of the lift but not back in (without maybe damaging the boat)
  2. Good points.
  3. As has been already said you want the bimini to be high enough to stand up under while totally erect and you need to remember the sun changes position during the day so if the bimini is too short from front to back it serves little purpose when the sun is high and on angle. While it may be tempting to go with a bimini already made (perhaps cheaper) it is often not the best option. Have one custom made taking into consideration your exact rod holder placement, seating placement etc. There is nothing more frustrating than paying good money for something that doesn't work right and properly fitting boat canvas is definitely one of those things in life. It may be a bit of a drive to Sodus Point from Ithaca but there is a canvas guy there named John Mann who could take a look at your specific boat and custom make you a top that you will be very satisfied with,,,,,he is one of the best around and very reasonable. Here is his phone number: John Mann > Sodus Bay Canvas 315 871 6400
  4. Hey Jeff - You might want to give a more detailed description of what you are doing. For example are you running inlines (and which ones) or big boards? Coppers or leadcores on them or just straight ? How far back are the lures running and the size of the sticks and the running speeds. Did you try spoons on them as well? Sometimes they just don't want sticks etc. best regards, Les
  5. Matt is very right about the slack situation. Sometimes especially with smaller steelies or rainbows/landlocks you may even see them jumping behind the boat without realizing they are on the slider other than perhaps seeing the rod tip moving so it is important to pay close attention to your riggers when using sliders and take up the slack as he said. Sometimes even browns will come into the prop wash for sliders as the lures on them generate quite a bit of action with the short leaders. Having extra lures in the water is always good when you fish solo a lot as I do and as Matt indicated having a couple fish on at the same time is a real adrenalin rush especially when trying to net solo
  6. I used to use stackers way back when but once I realized you could get the same or better result using fewer rods (rod limit was 2 per person back then) I switched to the sliders and have caught as many fish over the years (especially rainbows and landlocks) as on the main downrigger lines during the summer months in particular when the thermocline has formed. I prefer the free sliders with small lightweight spoons.
  7. I devised what I think is a quite simple setup back in the late 70's and it can be used both as a fixed slider and a stacker. It is basically a clamp used for catfish trot lines (Netcraft?) with a large Duolock snap held on by some heavy duty shrink tubing and a small rubber band. The trotline clamp is clipped or snapped onto the downrigger cable at the desired distanceupfrom the main lure after it is let out and I usually allow 10-15 ft or so above it before snapping it on. The rubber band is placed in the end swivel snap of the slider leader along with the main line and then the other end of the rubberband attached to the duolock snap on the downrigger cable. When the fish hits the fixed slider lure the rubber band breaks and the slider leader becomes free on the main line and unless the fish is real small it usually releases the main line from the Black release as well but if not it can just be manually released. If used as a stacker you just use a half hitch on the rubber band to the line and put the other end in the Duolock snap and clip the trotline clamp wherever you wish on the downrigger cable. The trotline clamp has enough tension to hold yourline on the downrigger cable but when you bring up the weight the clamp will slide and not hang up when it reaches the end of the downrigger.
  8. I'd be careful with that substitution as some fuses for electronics are "slow blow" type which is a different type of fuse.
  9. Yes many different rodents like to chew the wires on boats and cars in barns too over the winter as well. I believe I read somewhere they are attracted to the urine that is used in the manufacture of the plastic coating on a lot of wire.
  10. Talk about nailing the question..... should have one of those best answer things attached to Hank's post
  11. These guys are totally right. Back in the 60's and 70's there used to be houses along the shoreline that are no longer there (some of which ended up in the lake itself) because of the power of the waves and wind and related erosion. At one time when I was a kid there were some docks on the Lake O southern shore in places and they are long gone along with the cement bases that held them. Lake Ontario is truly a force to be reckoned with in winter. The ice can twist up steel girders like pretzels...
  12. I guess I distinguish between a cheater and a slider. The traditional cheater is a leader with a spoon on it that is located in a fixed position a few feet above a set of cowbells (used to be called "flashers") and it is long enough so that the spoon angles downward in back of the peanut or cut bait setup so that the fish is attracted to the cowbells and may or may not hit the peanut but then sees the spoon trailing behind it appearing wounded. The slider on the other hand is a short section of mono or fluoro (mine are 8 ft which is 6 inches shorter than my downrigger rods to allow for netting fish) with a swivel snap at either end. I use cheapo swivels for them but ones that have rounded fasteners (e.g. like duolocks in shape)so that the lure can operate freely in them. I use one a size smaller than the other (the end that slides down the main line) so that it can't get by the terminal one (ball bearing swivel) with the main lure on it (if somehow the lure should come off that the slider lure wouldn't also be lost). I roll a few slider leaders up on a section of foam noodle so they are ready to go if tangles occur etc. and with spoons already on them to save time. One of the reasons I use cheapo swivels on the sliders is that over the years I have found that it doesn't make any difference on them and if the line gets tangled (e.g.from excessive speed etc.) it is less expensive if you lose some from cutting. It is the only setup that I use them on ...all others I use solid ring ball bearing swivels.
  13. The pigeon didn't take Dramamine before landing on the boat and lost his lunch?
  14. The hook sizes aren't always "standard" or completely consistent from different manufacturers sometimes but I'd say a 4/0 could be OK for salt water but a little big for most freshwater applications except maybe a super magnum spoon.
  15. The hooks come "open" at the end from the factory. I use pliers to close them It is one of the reasons I like the Mustads and also I prefer the long point and short barb of them to other hooks because they make it easy to release fish without even touching them (just grip the hook with pliers at the side of the boat turn upside down and a small shake and they are off)
  16. Nice going NIck and Theresa. Sure hope the king trend continues this season. Hey Nick - in that first pic on the first page looks like your alien nature was exposed (looks like an antennae coming out of your head )
  17. Spinneys work fine on lakers or kings especially in deep applications and relatively close to the ball.
  18. Most of ours on the rigs didn't do too much until they got close to the surface and then it was "game on" most of them fought like hell then and were a challenge to net. Lakers can be an underrated fish .....and they can be a lot of fun
  19. Sk8man

    Seneca Hot report

    Nice going Ed. I used to watch those bows with their dorsals out of the water in mid lake near the high banks in years past gobbling those flies and they came right next to the boat sometimes as their attention was riveted on the bugs. We sometimes forget they have a fairly diverse diet....not always sawbellies
  20. Great account of things ifishy. We must have crossed paths out there too the day you launched from Geneva Congrats on the fish. I learned quite a few derbies ago to get the fish in ASAP as a couple times I lost out on quite a bit of money for just hundredths of a pound.
  21. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Search/crimps.aspx
  22. Coast Guard may be closed for launching I'm not sure if it is Memorial Day that they close it through the summer months maybe?
  23. baitrigger said it right on the mark...I've been using them for over 30 years on virtually all my spoons but used hardened stainless steel ones not the "cheapos" -big difference. I use the Mustad Siwash salmon hooks in sizes 2/0 and 3/0 for most and 1/0 for small spoons. If spoons such as Suttons come with solid rings I cut the trebles off and leave the ring alone and I use the existing split rings on others if they appear OK.
  24. One of the questions to be asked is: "where are they going to be used"? If Lake O then the larger paddles seem best suited to large dipseys and meat rigs or larger lure setups usually for deeper water application and on the Finger Lakes they may be unnecessary drag on your rods given the absence of kings and extremely large lakers. The smaller paddles seem much more versatile to me as they are easy to run on downriggers, wire or braid behind small to large dipseys with less drag. When running spoons or normal sized sticks the smaller paddles are all that is needed. The old maxim of "Why use a shotgun when only a BB gun is needed" applies as far as I'm concerned. Others may have a different view of it.
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