Sk8man

You don't need the "kit" I've used crimps for many many years successfully with wire. What may have happened is either you may have crimped improperly (allowing the wire to work back and forth or too tightly allowing it to sever at the end) or if you used a Sampo with a split ring they will often cut line or wire with any significant weight on them if the line or wire slips into the groove of the ring. I've had my current connections on two wire rigs for at least 5 years through many kings and other fish without problem and I run large heavier divers too. a) Make sure you are using the proper diameter crimp for the wire you are using b) Use a good quality SOLID RING swivel snap c) when you crimp the wire make sure you crimp it snugly in two places on the crimp toward but not exactly at the ends of the crimp. You want the ends of the crimp to be pretty well closed on the wire but not totally because you don't want the edge of the crimp to work back and forth on it. In the past when using very thin wire I put a drop of Instant Glue in the hole of the crimp and then I crimped it - not necessary with the 30 lb and above stuff though. d) After you get the crimp the way you want it you can use a small amount of CLEAR hot glue on the entire crimp and the lead up to the loop of the swivel. That will keep the crimp from moving back and forth on the wire and potentially severing it and also allow you to see through the glue to monitor the condition of the wire.

50 lb works pretty good

We'll be squeezing for her Sean....truly incredible opportunity.

I think I'd try running a can of Sea Foam through it before changing out anything.....possibly a residue issue. Maybe it is running too lean on the fuel?

X 2 on DVD's post and before fleas I used 12 lb all the time and even with 30 lb plus kings on the other end without break-offs.

Sean covered it real well and adding snap on weight is something I also do rather than extend the length of copper I use (200 and 300). I used the big boards for quite sometime and switched to outriggers years ago to keep the traffic away from my boat. Now I run TX 44's and Walleye Boards most of the time. They are fun to use and productive once you get the hang of them. One of the things I did with them was to replace the plastic pins with metal ones (Calumet Marine online) which alleviates the problem of the braid wearing them and cutting through them eventually. I always place the line in the furthest back position of the jaw on the releases and have the releases tightened down about as far as they go so they don't actually release and I bring the boards in and take them off manually on the way in fish or no fish rather than let the line release in them and have them slide down to the swivel on the back pin. Having the line very tight in the release also keeps the braid from wearing the release jaw itself too.

Another good idea about going on your boat with someone with a lot of experience .....wantmorefish - you have the right attitude my notebooks have payed off big time over the years

One of the things that occurs to me is the fact that sometimes folks are looking for "instant answers" here rather than fully doing their "homework" by researching past posts on here and trying out the things experimentally on the water themselves, finding what works and what doesn't. Many of the guys on here have spent much if not most of their lives gathering this experience and information (at their own expense) and graciously offer much of that information to others but it is assumed that people will also think and do for themselves rather than being "spoon fed" information in bulleted form because someone is too reluctant to put in the minimal effort to become more informed by sifting through existing information. Paul's suggestion of an on the water "seminar" is absolutely the best way to learn this stuff and he is a very credible person to conduct it. Many folks often chip in money/split costs to go on charters when they can't afford the whole shot themselves. It is far more advantageous than buying a bunch of rods and reels and lures and cruising around trying to figure out what you are doing. Going out once and then assuming your results indicate that you suck at fishing and worrying about down temp or speed when you don't have the basic essentials down isn't fair to yourself either. You'll get it down and start catching but patience is also very much required in this game and a lot of times success out there may be totally outside your control (i.e Mother nature). Stick with it and best of luck to you.

It is one of the main reasons I usually shift to outriggers during derbies people can see you coming from a long way off and anyone with any sense will usually adjust their path accordingly much sooner than with boards especially in rough water conditions. I only run boards way out when traffic is light or non-existent and it is usually only the shoreline board. A little courtesy goes a long way out there and even if someone is self centered and selfish....do they really want to deal with that mess from tangled lines from another boat?

Mark's post is a particularly valuable one both for fresh and salt water - birds often indicate close proximity of bait and usually fish are there too or seeking it nearby. Sometimes despite knowing that we tend to overlook or forget about it....good reminder

On rigs with 7 strand 30 lb SS wire (1,000ft) I use a minimal amount (e.g. 50 ft or so) just to protect the spool spindle of the reel from binding pressure but some guys prefer to tape the wire directly to the spool with electrical tape. The chances of being "spooled" with1,000 ft of wire is pretty remote either way and either way works. The more critical thing with stranded wire is starting it on the spool in alignment with the level wind mechanism so that the wire goes on straight rather than on an extreme angle across the spool starting out. Some folks also run out into deep water before first use and put a heavy sinker on the end and let out a large amount of wire and then reel it back in to compress the wire evenly on the spool. Always remember - to keep tension at all times (even during storage) on the wire or you will have curly q's and kinks in the wire. Always let it out slowly when deploying it and avoid "free spooling" or you will have the worst mess you've seen it is best to gradually loosen your drag and lowly deploy your dipsey. Many people tie their wire right to the sturdy solid ring ball bearing swivel snap using a "haywire" knot but I'm "old school" and still use a wire crimp which I coat fully in transparent hot glue so I can still see inside to monitor the connection. You should routinely inspect the connection for frayed or broken strands and cut back a small section and redo it if problems are evident. You can use either fluoro or mono from the wire to the dipsey and either for the fly but I prefer 50 lb mono for both because it is fairly stiff (like fluoro) yet has a minimal amount of stretch if a big king jumps on it. The wire obviously has no stretch to absorb impact. Some folks use "snubbers" to allow for some stretch but I got away from them years ago and have never gone back because I didn't feel that I was getting as many good hookups with them but others on here swear by them...again personal preference.

Although a dipsey can be run from either copper or leadcore it may not be the easiest or best option usually. Seven strand stainless steel wire in 30 lb test gets down pretty good with dipseys and 50 lb braid is another option (need to use mono backing underneath it to keep it from slipping on the reel spindle). Both give pretty good control of depth. Neither of these options have much if any stretch in the main line to the dipsey and that is important with dipseys. If you intend to run dipseys off big boards or inline boards braid may be the way to go because unless you are very experienced with wire you'll probably end up kinking and have to cut it. If fishing Lake O and the Finger Lakes you'll be confronting the seasonal problem of water fleas as well and if they are bad they will attach to just about anything so frequent checks of your lines is advisable to avoid major flea "pileups". A copper rig is usually used to run single spoons or stickbaits either straight back or down the chute (in back of the prop wash ) OR run from boards by attaching to the mono or braid backing once the length of copper has been fully let out. The exact length and weight of the copper in conjunction with your boat speed will largely determine the depth at which your lure runs (slower deeper faster higher etc.). Copper wire is relatively soft so special hardened tips or eyes in the rod are not necessary. Stainless stranded wire on the other hand requires either a twilli tip or a roller tip in order to keep your rod eyes and tip from being chewed up. Also be aware that the line guides on some reels can also be cut into if they are not specifically "hardened" ones (e;g; if they are just brass with plating on them). The length of copper wire used is also a factor to consider both in terms of reel line capacity and in terms of the reel gear ratio. If you ever pull in a 600 ft copper rig you'll immediately understand why (and end up with Popeye arms as well ). A fluoro leader in desired length (personal preference issue) is attached to the copper wire using specific knots http://www.animatedknots.com/?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.comfor that purpose or using a small Spro #8 barrel swivel (which will go through most rod tips and eyes) and solid ring ball bearing swivel at the end where the lure is intended to go). Some folks prefer to use just a duolock snap at the end with a Spro swivel placed a few feet up the line. With a SS wire rig some folks prefer mono over fluoro because they actually want a little stretch from the wire to the dipsey or even to the flasher and then use fluoro just for the lure or fly. I prefer 50 lb mono for the flasher or Spinney to the fly on Lake O and 30 lb for the Finger Lakes. For either a copper rod or wire rod you want something with a good backbone to it but actual length is a personal preference and somewhat also depends onhow your rod holders are set up and what else you are running. I stick with relatively short 6-7 ft rods because I often go solo and it is easier netting fish.

maybe here? http://www.westmarine.com/

Good practice for the Seneca derby fellas This is already starting out to be a strange season weather wise....these warm days and some rain may set things in gear. Good shakedown cruise.....maybe shook the Florida cobwebs out of Mikes head.