Sk8man

I keep an extra bilge pump with a length of flexible hose on it with alligator type clips attached (so I can hook it to either battery in an emergency or to help someone else out) but I've never had a drop of water in my boat thus far ever so maybe its main function is psychological at this point

While you are there and if you have time check out the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute and take the ferry to Nantuckett

I'm not sure what size/brand motor you have (HP) but first of all I'd check to see which props the manufacturer of your motor recommends because if you get the wrong one it could create a problem with your motor (e.g. wrong size or pitch and possible over revving at top end).. The information may be in your operators manual if you have it. If not contact a marina that sells that particular brand of motor. If all else fails consider attaching a trolling plate to the anti cavitation plate on the motor (most bolt on). You wiould be able to get pretty much whatever trolling speed you need with that. You definitely want to have a correctly matched propeller no matter what you decide.

DON'T snip off the weights. The modification calls for cutting a section out of the white foam in the shape of one weight (on top of it) and placing both weights stacked together together.The screw will retain both weights in the modified slot if carefully done. Note: I tried the modification but didn't like the way the boards rode so scrapped the it and returned to the standard setup and adjusted my rod placement upward and it helped

5/0's are hard to beat

I believe In that Blood Run article there is a section dealing with modifications to the boards when running heavier stuff if I remember correctly. For the TX 44's it involved repositioning both the weights in a forward position and modifying the release arm (carefully bending it upward after heating it). If running braid they also mentioned buying metal pins to replace the plastic ones that come with the boards to avoid cutting into the plastic. Calumet Marine sells them and I've had them for awhile and they work fine.. Additionally you want the boards to run along parallel to the boat at the sides rather than well behind it. At least in my experience with inline boards there may always be occasional "skipping" and diving along with significant changes in boat speed and wave action especially if running "active" lures with heavier/longer lines and speed will be different for each side of the boat (outside faster and inside slower) I keep the rod tip up higher when letting the boards out and pointed downward toward the boards when bringing in fairly rapidly to avoid the board diving.

There are also different grades of tires with different load ratings my D rated ones call for a 65 lb max and I keep them at 64 lbs and it is an 18 ft boat. It also depends on how much weight you are carrying in your boat on the trailer...mine holds 60 gal. of gas and I keep it full and I carry a lot of stuff in it as well so it need plenty of air in the tires to support it. The best idea is to go by the printed ratings on the tires.

I've used the one Mark mentioned and it is great and well worth the money and on mine you can select either the standard starting battery or deep cycle ....does a great job.

Is the overflow area also full at Sampson?

I wish Jason "Good luck" with that stuff .....I threw out a bunch of new spools of it of various tests that had never been used because of the failures in knot strength (regardless of knot used). I have used Berkeley lines since the early seventies and this is the only one that I have absolutely no trust in.