Sk8man

I used to keep bird feeders out back for the bluebirds and others until the deer kept knocking them over and spilling the seed all over. Then I read an article that mentioned a downside to bird feeding that also discussed the deer problem and led to something that concerned me enough to quit doing it (near my home). What was mentioned is the fact that rodents such as mice and voles are attracted to the dropped seeds from the feeders and they often carry ticks some of which are the ones that carry Lyme Disease which in turn spreads to the deer and subsequently can be contracted by humans or domestic animals. It was also indicated that Lyme Ticks are also very cold resistant and can still be active if they become in close contact with animals or people during winter conditions. It was enough for me to stop the bird feeding because I don't want those ticks any closer to my yard or house than necessary as I have a dog who goes out there. Just something to think about.....

I think the suggestion of a credit union is the best option usually. They usually have the best rates. I have even had banks admit to me that they can't compete with the credit union rates. Also they seem more flexible in their loan policies. You may want to think about setting up a direct deposit/checking account with one and they may be more amenable to the loan.,

The ONLY problem I had with the 44's (and it only happened once) was that when I had to slow up reeling one in to deal with something else about 10 ft away from the side of the boat that board dove under the boat and it was about all I could do to retrieve it. When they do dive they are a "bear" to retrieve. They track fine and I still use them for "heavier" stuff but the 22's and Walleye board are more of an "all around" use board in my opinion. The boards are fine until that dive problem occurs.

Good one Big Water and thanks Hop.

Mike I am pretty sure that the Geneva spoons preceeded the MIller's and the swivel is definitely from real early on and I had one of those heart shaped ones too but I'm unable to find it so I'm pretty sure.

It is a spoon for jerking copper from the early 1900's. There is a more modern day spoon called Leather Stocking which resembles it but if you look at the swivel that is real "old school" I am pretty sure it is one of the old "Geneva spoons" Here are some others: (the one by itself at the top is a Leather Stocking spoon. The remainder are Geneva Spoons my grandfather used pulling copper from a row boat on Seneca Lake back just after the turn of the century (about 1910 or so) and he lived in Geneva. You'll note that they used a number of ways to attach the hook back then (rivets, solder etc) on the second pic of the undersides. The Geneva spoons are true collectors items and may be quite valuable and rare. A couple of mine have been altered slightly (split ring and swivel etc.) because I used them to pull copper in the National Trout Derby awhile back to honor my grandfathers memory. I didn't leave it on long as I was concerned about losing it (sentimental value) he died a couple years before I was born.

Nice work Rick. Sure doesn't get much better than that! Pikefreak- Rick is 100 % right about doing it right. It is one of those things in life you don't do half way. Paul Czarnecki is a masterful artist and you want to be proud of your fish hanging on the wall not "sheepish" to show it to folks". He's be my first pick for sure.

Useful tips/suggestions regarding ice fishing in the Finger Lakes 1. Some of the common baits used for jigging for panfish and perch, bass, and walleyes in the Finger Lakes are: Fathead Minnows Spikes ( fly larvae also known as "maggots") Waxworms (larvae of the greater Wax Moth) Mousies (Rat Tailed maggot) Mealworms Red worms, garden worms and nightcrawlers (usually pieces) Cut up pieces of fish, minnow heads, perch eyes or other species eyes Various plastic tubes, minnow immitations, immitation worms etc. Some additional commonly found baits are: cut up small pieces of shrimp, and canned corn 2. A lot can be learned by either looking down the hole and watching your jig operate in clear water, by using a flasher such as a Vexilar , Marcum, Lowrance etc. or the use of an underwater camera A lot of times without using these methods it is assumed nothing is below you and often this couldn't be further from the truth. During the winter fish often become sluggish, slow to respond, very fussy, and appear to maintain their curiosity about line movement, the jig itself, scent attractants, or the bait but they are reluctant to actually bite the bait and may nudge the line or jig or maybe even "mouth" the bait without biting it. They can do this without a detectable movement in your line or jig and unless you are closely visually observing them. They sometimes just appear "disinterested". They may repeatedly come back to the jig and bait many times without biting and it is very frustrating indeed. It may be that they just aren't hungry, they have fed earlier or at night, they are actively feeding on something different than your bait (e.g. fresh water shrimp and may be "stuffed" with them). Again, if you weren't actually watching you'd assume there was nothing there. There is another common thing involved that may escape your attention but it is critically important and that is that some (often tiny) part of the jig hook is exposed (e.g. the very point). The hook always needs to be completely covered and especially when the fish are "fussy". Another thing that is a problem and wouldn't be realized without the above visual methods is that the jig may be spinning and that may trigger them to be very cautiously avoidant because that motion is probably not "natural" in appearance to them in their environment. Constantly vary your jigging motion and the speed of it. Don't be reluctant to jig just under the ice either especially for gills and trout as well. Vary your jigging depth periodically....they are not all oriented toward the bottom (especially Crappies and bass etc.). When looking down the hole and the fish all of a sudden take off (possible predator nearby) observe which direction they went and if they don't return fish for them in that direction. 3. The use of swivels should be avoided as they can "spook" the fish and appear as "unnatural" If a small barrel swivel is desired it should be place about 3 ft. up the line from the jig. Small "fast snaps" can be useful if changing jigs frequently but often tying directly to the jig is the way to go. Use the lightest lb test line (2 lb is not uncommon) you can for pan fish and perch. Use a very light fluoro leader in clear water and in shallow (i.e.most of the time). If fishing where pike and pickerel abound and fishing 15 ft or more of water you may wish to increase the test of the line (to a max of 6 lb test of clear line). Check your drag settings frequently because in the extreme cold they can easily stick. 4. If your hole is constantly freezing over in the cold (especially if not in a shelter) pour a little coffee or tea in it as it will warm it enough to keep it free for awhile at least. 5. Change jigs and baits frequently if you aren't getting results. Spending 15 or 20 minutes per hole is a good yardstick measure. If no action move on. In this regard, Drill a bunch of holes when you first arrive rather than waiting so that they can have a chance to calm down for a bit and allow any fish that were spooked to return. 6. If your rod is relatively stiff the use of a spring bobber (lightweight small diameter stainless steel wire with loop at the end andoften a bead installed at the tip of the rod which the line runs through) can help detect very light hits.

Geez....I didn't even realize my bathing suit was down when they took my pic

I now use only my own home made flies but here are setups that worked best last season

Great fish and looks like you had a great time of it too.

TX 22's - the TX44's too unwieldy and can dive when close to the boat if not careful TX22's seem about right for most things and are easier to manage.