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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Most folks use the 30 lb 7 strand. An additional brand is Accustrand and I believe emptystringer on here usually has some for sale. I have had good luck with it but I have also used the other brands mentioned and if treated right most brands work fine but you do have to periodically examine them and perhaps cut out any questionable areas for a few feet up. The wire does vary in tensile (breaking) strength and there are differences as in the finish as some are very shiny while others have a "camo" or brownish finish. A critical variable is kink resistance and most wire at 30 pound test kinks fairly easily when the tension is off it ( e..g. curly cues). So in short, it becomes largely a personal preference issue.
  2. Hope that isn't a plastic fish Mike is holding up.... I know how competitive he is
  3. Nice going John I hope this is a good omen for what the rest of the season will be like.
  4. As long as the packaging is available shouldn't be a problem at least the way the reg is worded.
  5. Try working on a diagonal starting at about 80 or 90 ft and go outward diagonally running cowbells on or near bottom with cowbells and gambler rigs until you locate either pods of baitfish, marks on bottom, or suspended fish below pods. When you find fish don't just keep going - keep working them back and forth until you connect with something....sometimes you may get a surprise Chinook too and browns can be at the starting point (e.g. in 80-90 ft.) near bottom. The lakers may end up being in the very deep water but not always if bait is around shallower so going on a diagonal you cover a greater range of depths and area.
  6. You may want to check inside the downrigger body since you changed out the power wires something (e.g. wires)may be too close together and touch when the boat is moving in the waves and shorting outetc. A connector to the switch may be loose on there too.
  7. That's great Kevin. Cool to see some Crappies in the mix too
  8. You might try either some chrome polish or silver polish. It will remove SOME spots (depending on what the spoons/or finish are made of). Then wash them with dawn dishsoap to get the scent off them
  9. Works well with the Spiny Fleas but the Fishhook type are harder to remove and seem somewhat like stinky cottenwood
  10. There are many on the market but the old standard is to use a fine file and sharpen the hooks from the shaft towards the point tip on three sides if the result "catches" on your finger (not penetrates) you should be good to go. If the hook is rusty replace it.
  11. I don't know if this may be a prohibitive factor but the NYS DEC regulations require proof of virus free bait where live or dead. Even commercial bait is required to have the package information available. Certified virus free bait requires a receipt from the place where purchased and is good for 10 days from the sale. It is difficult or perhaps impossible to prove that bait came from a given body of water (the only acceptable alternative to purchase) where used. To date I have never been checked for the receipt but it could happen.
  12. It is a good question and the answer is probably subjective at best. I have pretty much used the spoons as they come from the package or supplier assuming that there may be a good reason for either including the split ring or not. The suspicion is that lure balance relating to affecting action of the spoon may be a reason. Over the years i have experimented with tying directly to spoons, using loop knot, using Duolock snaps some with a barrel swivel a few feet up the line, ball bearing swivels, and various other configurations. Each has its own merit depending on the spoon size, weight and shape but most are related to the speed at which the spoon is run and the presence or absence of current. In order the sort it out you need to experiment with the particular spoons and observe closely. Most folks don't have the patience for it. I think it may be more important when considering stickbaits as they can be way more sensitive to it and in each case it may involve "tuning" the lure..
  13. Probably your best solution
  14. Sweet! new hammerheads
  15. They are right... not a great idea. It can be done but why ask for trouble
  16. Going to have to spring for a bigger net Anthony. Your buddy looks like Mikey from American Choppers
  17. All you have to do is compare it with a solo outing to get a real sense of what fishing is really all about It is all about SHARING the excitement.
  18. Their servicing is second to none and is the way things used to get done in this wonderful country of ours.
  19. They look great Dustin
  20. There is no really right or wrong way just differences. The A option tends to fan the strands backward and can make the fly appear smaller and more compact. The B option fans the strands outward making the fly appear larger and more "spidery" in appearance. Cohos often like things a bit smaller in size e.g. attractors and flies as well so there may be a difference in how they react to the flies. I don't think the kings seem to be fussy about it
  21. You'll get better results with option B as Whaler indicated.
  22. Many of our problems start with man....and his tries to manipulate nature. A good recent example is over in Tasmania. They were worried about facial tumors appearing on the animal called Tasmanian Devils so they transported a bunch of them to supposedly "protect" them to an uninhabited island where there were only birds and they ate every single penguin and other birds on that island. Now they are scratching their heads wondering why they did it. Everywhere you look there are examples of man's attempt to intervene in nature and nearly always it ends in disaster.
  23. 200 and 300 and use snap weights for extra depth. A lot easier on the fish if intended to release.
  24. Nice going Johnnie. looks like a familiar rod in the background
  25. Wow ! thanks JJ 75 years old right out of my dinosaur era
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