Sk8man

Out of all the things I have seen and heard about this topic Vince's comments are the most enlightening. Public pressure from focused groups can sometimes bring about very effective solutions to problems from bureaucrasies but they need "prodding" We all need to pull together on this issue and try to bring some effective pressure to bear with the hope that it will not be too late. Like Vince I've been fishing for the salmon in the lake since 1975 and although there have been some downs leading up to the 80's and 90's phenomenal fishing for kings the present situation seems quite different and the massive presence of bait all over the lake is different than those points too.

Chaamp99B - I think you meant 350 ft copper and 450 ft copper. Otherwise you'd have arms like a world class body builder after just the first setup

FindersKeepers - ( FYI) the connection above (URL) won't connect

There is a lot of very valuable input here. There are "no magic solutions" to this issue though....it would be a good idea to take all this information in (presented from many very different angles) and step back a bit from it and think to yourself 1,. Do I really NEED a boat right now to fish? or is it just that I WANT one right now.... two different issues.. 2. Given my current life situation and finances is it something I am prepared to embark on ....for example what if the motor has problem and needs repair (just changing an impeller cane be over $300 despite the $20 for the part because of labor charges and most places are around $100 per hour or more. Fuel prices at marinas can be at or near $5.00 per gallon for non ethanol gas (and you'll need oil as well). Boat insurance can run $400 or more. You also will have boat and trailer registration fees and an annual inspection. At the end of the season the motor and any water systems (e..g. live wells etc.) have to be winterized. If you store your boat someplace else that can run "a few hundred dollars per season. If you keep it outside you'll either have to have it plastic wrapped (couple hundred or more for average sized boat) or build something to dissipate the snow and ice and a cover for it. 3. These are the realities of boat ownership that often relate to the "need" factor more heavily than the "want" issue once you step back from the situation and objectively evaluate the differences between them some of the "luster" wears off I'm not trying to dissuade you from purchasing a boat.... just trying to make you aware some of the issues that some of us "discovered" along the way which may not have seemed so important to consider while "looking" at boats prior to purchase.

Dan - I'd carefully examine the tip of the rod that has the chaffing.....not sure of the type of tip you are using but I've used each of the brands I've recommended above for years without a problem with roller tips but occasionally even rollers need to be checked tto make sure the wire isn't riding over the edges of the roller (some rollers develop "play" over time). I've also used Mason 60 lb wire on a couple Seth Greens for over 30 years without even having to change the wire or main connection (just the mono rig lines). I believe you may have either a defective roll of wire (unlikely) or if you are using a crimp sleeve and the fraying is near there the sleeve needs to be crimped so that each end of the crimp is compressed so that there is no "play" or bending back and forth on the edge of it on the wire or possibly the wrong size crimp was used (i.e. too large).

Over forty years of wire use here and my experience has been the same as Tim's above. While some of my buddies have gone to braid even on Seth Greens and downriggers I'm still very happy with wire on those too. The qualifier above was "flexibility" regarding ease of use on boards or outriggers etc.

There is a real healthy baitfish population there right now (as of a couple days ago ) I don't think they would go specifically for perch as they aren't as high nutrient value to them as alewives but I know from looking at stomach contents of trout over the years that big lakers sometimes eat them along with sunfish, sculpin, and shiners or even small smallies.

Bloodrun Malin or Accustrand

Adk - until this season I would have said go with wire over braid for sure but now after seeing 100ft of downrigger cable with total fleas coverage on 200 lb test wire (Keuka Lake) I have changed my view....when the fleas are real thick they accrue on wire very bad too. I do think they may be a bit easier to get off wire though but it is a mess anyway when they are thick. It is more flexible as far as running stuff off boards etc. using braid. I have separate rigs set up for both. I think one thing that seems to escape the fleas in large part (other then connections or braid backer) is copper wire itself.

if you have to use the 27H's that way I'd take Broad Horizon's advice regarding the wire approach if you can all get the wire on there....whenever you can avoid knots or splices etc. it is the way to go. I'd put a few feet of 30 mono under the wire though.

It sure is and I've had the great opportunity to take it one step further....I've met some great folks in the area who are members for coffee etc. and some fishing chat and mutual sharing of info face to face and have fished with a number of LOU members on my boat and/or theirs having never met them before. VERY cool! Great way to meet people with shared interests, make new fishing friends and learn at the same time....don't be afraid to try it... a lot of fun.