Sk8man

Cayuga, Owasco Skaneateles, and Otisco (3 in combination).I believe Otisco only has browns though.

I also go with Kevin's logic.....run shorter especially in congested areas. I used to run my boards in the conventional way but with all the "yahoos" during derby time I have learned that my outriggers are a better choice as it tends to keep them at a further distance. I have even put fluorescent tape on the outriggers to ward them off We run 6 rods max and sometimes only 2 or 3 for certain things.....there are times when pulling a whole bunch of lines through shallow water or in congested areas is not necessarily the best strategy....

For Seneca and all the lakes tributaries west of it - 3 in combination but it specifies "no more than one rainbow may be taken"

I go with the old maxim there is strength in numbers Get ready for the "armada" of north enders (especially if you guys "sneak" into our territory)....I can feel your knees knocking from here Nick

Man Justin.....that looks solid enough for duty on the Mekong Delta! You aiming to beat a 20 rod spread? great platform for harvesting those tigers and eyes. I have family commitments today (and even last night) preventing me from going after the eyes but I may be braving the 20 plus mph winds tomorrow night....Good luck bud.

I have been assured by bunches of "north enders" that we are destined to take the derby this year so I already printed out my sympathy cards for you guys down there.

Geez Nick I sure hope you find some flies before the derby.....we're gunning for ya this year (and these are only my home made ones

You never know what those birds are going to do....one of my buddies was scouting once using an electronic call near his car....just to see if it worked. Nothing responded so he kept it up staying still. All of a sudden he felt something nearby and and the tom had come right up next to his leg...scared the crap out of him

The yellow thing is the peanut (they come in many colors/patterns) and it can be rigged in a variety of ways (beads, spacers, glitter stuff etc.)

Here is an example of one called a "Wobble Troll" They can be rigged in various ways but this gives you a basic idea.

If you are going to be using the bimini while fishing the first thing I would do is shorten up the support straps at the back and have the "connectors" re-located on the gunwale going almost straight down from the back edge of the bimini to free up the back end so they won't be in the way of your rod holders etc. I 'd consider moving the back cleats forward a little bit and put a couple downriggers where they are now located (you didn't mention if you had short or long booms on them or swivel bases).If they aren't on swivel bases you'd probably have to run them straight back (not the best option on turns etc.) to avoid problems in docking. If on swivel bases you would have the additional option of running the downriggers at 45 degree angles (or straight out at 90's if not running dipseys close in...run them off inline boards instead) You'd need to make sure the rod holders are very sturdy and are bolstered underneath the gunwale with either wood or preferably aluminum "plates" if they aren't already very sturdily constructed there to avoid torque problems with the riggers and the rod holders. If you move the bimini connectors forward as suggested it may also free up a space to put a couple rod holders (one on each side) where they currently are positioned. Again if the rod holders are going to be used with dipseys or wire rigs etc. you may need to add plates underneath to properly support them.

The guys hit it right...when the front moves in and the barometric pressure changes rapidly they usually shut off. On the other hand, this time of year you will find two main places in deep lakes where the water temperature is most productive for lakers up near the top (and often right near shore) where you have the warmest temps (although often the temp is "spotty") and on the bottom where the temp is usually about 39 degrees because it is the densest there. Lakers will be found in those two places primarily or if suspended it will most likely almost always be right near bait pods. Because the surface warms in just a thin layer this time of year those 5-7 colors were probably running in 35 degree (i.e coldest) water most of the time. Try running top lines back further and just a few feet below the surface and with "floppy" spoons or jointed Rapalas in orange or chartreuse or silver/black J-7's orJ-9's. If running the downriggers deep say near bottom don't be afraid to snug them up close to the ball (e.g.6-10ft. behind) and try running cowbells with a peanut behind it that way or perhaps even a little closer to the weight. This is so that they appear to be a "group" rather than separate or discrete objects. You may want to start out closer to shore next time rather than in the 50 ft range and if nothing there go deep (90-150ft.) and near bottom Good luck next time.

That is how I've always done it at least.

As long as they actually release it doesn't really make much of a difference. If the rubber band stays intact you know exactly where to set back...but it is no big deal either way. The tension setting just needs to be adjusted to whatever you are running (spoon, stick. attractor combo etc.). I usually set most of my stuff so a 3 lb fish will release it.....but like I said you will have to adjust according to what you are running too to avoid false releases.

I know this comment is not directly related to your question but in looking at the pic above it looks as though your gas line (and primer bulb) is located very close to the wiring connections in the back and if it ever sprung a leak and gas sprayed on those connectors if the ground was faulty.....possibly "kaboom" or a fire. I think I'd be trying to relocate them or the gas line a little further away. Just a suggestion...