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Everything posted by Sk8man
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Man Justin.....that looks solid enough for duty on the Mekong Delta! You aiming to beat a 20 rod spread? great platform for harvesting those tigers and eyes. I have family commitments today (and even last night) preventing me from going after the eyes but I may be braving the 20 plus mph winds tomorrow night....Good luck bud.
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You never know what those birds are going to do....one of my buddies was scouting once using an electronic call near his car....just to see if it worked. Nothing responded so he kept it up staying still. All of a sudden he felt something nearby and and the tom had come right up next to his leg...scared the crap out of him
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Trolled all day with no fish
Sk8man replied to j_hudson's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
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I think I use similar stuff to what Mark described only it is called Triple Guard Grease. started using it back in 1979 on my previous boat trailer. Had it 22 years and never had new bearings despite much trailering. I've used it on present trailer with same bearings for 12 years and when I had the bearings checked last week they said they were fine. I swear by it (same blue/green color as described and VERY thick consistency). I also used Bearing Buddies on both trailers. You have to be careful not to fill the bearing cavity too full as it could blow out through the rear seals of the wheels.
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Trolled all day with no fish
Sk8man replied to j_hudson's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
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Possibly Larry Japp at Roy's marina in Geneva (315) 789-3094
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If you are going to be using the bimini while fishing the first thing I would do is shorten up the support straps at the back and have the "connectors" re-located on the gunwale going almost straight down from the back edge of the bimini to free up the back end so they won't be in the way of your rod holders etc. I 'd consider moving the back cleats forward a little bit and put a couple downriggers where they are now located (you didn't mention if you had short or long booms on them or swivel bases).If they aren't on swivel bases you'd probably have to run them straight back (not the best option on turns etc.) to avoid problems in docking. If on swivel bases you would have the additional option of running the downriggers at 45 degree angles (or straight out at 90's if not running dipseys close in...run them off inline boards instead) You'd need to make sure the rod holders are very sturdy and are bolstered underneath the gunwale with either wood or preferably aluminum "plates" if they aren't already very sturdily constructed there to avoid torque problems with the riggers and the rod holders. If you move the bimini connectors forward as suggested it may also free up a space to put a couple rod holders (one on each side) where they currently are positioned. Again if the rod holders are going to be used with dipseys or wire rigs etc. you may need to add plates underneath to properly support them.
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Trolled all day with no fish
Sk8man replied to j_hudson's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
The guys hit it right...when the front moves in and the barometric pressure changes rapidly they usually shut off. On the other hand, this time of year you will find two main places in deep lakes where the water temperature is most productive for lakers up near the top (and often right near shore) where you have the warmest temps (although often the temp is "spotty") and on the bottom where the temp is usually about 39 degrees because it is the densest there. Lakers will be found in those two places primarily or if suspended it will most likely almost always be right near bait pods. Because the surface warms in just a thin layer this time of year those 5-7 colors were probably running in 35 degree (i.e coldest) water most of the time. Try running top lines back further and just a few feet below the surface and with "floppy" spoons or jointed Rapalas in orange or chartreuse or silver/black J-7's orJ-9's. If running the downriggers deep say near bottom don't be afraid to snug them up close to the ball (e.g.6-10ft. behind) and try running cowbells with a peanut behind it that way or perhaps even a little closer to the weight. This is so that they appear to be a "group" rather than separate or discrete objects. You may want to start out closer to shore next time rather than in the 50 ft range and if nothing there go deep (90-150ft.) and near bottom Good luck next time. -
A real OLDTIMER taught me that one about 1975 ....doesn't always work but enough to have convinced me....
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Cool!
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For Sale : USA Troutman Torpedo weights
Sk8man replied to JimB's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
I've been using the Plasti-Dip since the1980's and it hasn't impacted the fishing in the least. It comes in a dip can (which is much too small for inserting the weights but it can be brushed on for thicker coats) or spray cans for thinner coats (e.g. touch ups etc.) I switched to black from red a few years ago although I don't see much difference in the results. I have also used it for coating my sinkers for Seth Green rigs which minimizes the direct handling of the lead and possible contamination (e.g eating your sandwich after retrieving uncoated weights or sinkers). -
As long as they actually release it doesn't really make much of a difference. If the rubber band stays intact you know exactly where to set back...but it is no big deal either way. The tension setting just needs to be adjusted to whatever you are running (spoon, stick. attractor combo etc.). I usually set most of my stuff so a 3 lb fish will release it.....but like I said you will have to adjust according to what you are running too to avoid false releases.
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I think Jamestown distributors also carries the Starboard that is often used to make interior marine cabinets etc. It is very strong and rigid. Not cheap but very durable.
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I know this comment is not directly related to your question but in looking at the pic above it looks as though your gas line (and primer bulb) is located very close to the wiring connections in the back and if it ever sprung a leak and gas sprayed on those connectors if the ground was faulty.....possibly "kaboom" or a fire. I think I'd be trying to relocate them or the gas line a little further away. Just a suggestion...
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The sheep too I think Marty should receive some kind of special medal just for having the balls to wear that hat Maybe the medal could have a pic of a guy with a tie on it .....just thinking...
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I've taken the front treble from some sticks in the past for the very same reason and most can tolerate it well but I've always left the small split ring on there to minimize the weight differential. The one lure I don't mess with however is Rapalas because they seem very "touchy" regarding weight differences or even minor adjustments of any kind (they are very "responsive" to changes of any sort)....Rebels, Smithwicks, Storms etc. seem to be less so.
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1 or possibly two large split shot placed about 3 or 4 ft above the spoon (also helps keep grass of the spoon itself)
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I know I risk you guys laughing,,,,but here is another option that works..... the sleeve is hard plastic and good sized diameter so various lines slip through easily yet don't abrade the line. I use them both with and without the rubber bands (the bands are the type girls use in their hair (can be purchased in various department stores). If pulling heavier stuff I use them without the bands and set the line further back in the release....the sleeves can also be used with other releases. The sinker provides the weight to get them going down the line until the release nests in the bow in the line. I'm not sure what the sleeves are called (i.e. brand name) but they are used as slip sinkers for salt water fishing (I purchased them on Cape Cod but I have seen them online someplace too). Here is what they look like when you buy them: (and no I haven't had problems with the sinker tangling the line)
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4/26 & 4/27
Sk8man replied to bondouley's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)