Sk8man

I strongly second L&M's advice John Mann is top rate and reasonable.

If you look closely at the Parker's as the first selection choice you may not even go any further....they are incredibly well built and well thought out boats. If I wasn't a hardcore Boston Whaler guy it is what I would want to be in.

When the fleas are bad I have downrigger rods with 30 lb Blood Run Mono which I use with 17 lb fluoro leader for spoons and sticks on Lake O but for hardware I have wire setups. By the way with wire rigs I was advised by Tuna Tom Reel Troubles to put at least a small amount on mono backing on the reel with wire to protect the spool integrity.. Often if braid/Spectra is used as backing a small amount of mono should put on first to keep the spool/drag from slipping especially while putting on the braid..I hear ya on the Flea Flicker stuff that is why I didn't mention it above

The braid will pick up fleas because of the texture primarily so they will adhere to both 30 and 50. The larger diameter mono and to an extent wire line does not allow the fleas to cling to it as easily. The larger diameter mono (e.g. 30 lb) is not necessarily the desired diameter people might want to use but if you don't want the fleas to clog your line....it is needed during flea season as they have a harder time clinging to it. There are also lines specially formulated to minimize fleas such as Blood Run Sea Flea mono that has a somewhat "slippery coating to discourage fleas and other lines as well.

Hats off to you fish-on! That dude was one lucky guy.

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16 or 18 inches to about 28 or 30 inches usually with a conventional diver set up. The reason I put it as a range rather than an absolute is that it can also depend on what types/sizes of "flies" you are running. Most of the guys have a set preference which is an "average" within that range and it works well for them and the the specific setups they normally are running or types of flashers as well. I make some of my own flies which I may "tune" as I go along depending on results or when the fish seem tentative or "spooky" and once in awhile even run a squid. The 24 inch average is a real good starting point but don't be afraid to experiment either...it is half the fun...especially finding something that works when nothing else seems to.

I'll PM you Jeff

That freaking ice can really do some incredible damage to docks, hoists and other stuff left out. One of my Seneca Lake buddies that used to fish with me during the winter and lived on the lake kept his 18 ft Blue Fin in his hoist over the water (around 1979) when we had the bad freeze and he got frozen in over night and then the ice starting really building up and he was totally trapped. The ice twisted up his new heavy duty hoist like a pretzel and crunched up his boat totaling it and the motor.

I was just thinking this particular year it may not be as much of a problem depending on the date of the second derby because my hunch is that this years regular derby will be a total bust (because of the water temp and conditions and few fish in the creek and that annual one is the one that draws the real crowd.

I agree with that. It is much too small and fragile a stream to support heavier fishing than is already the case....but like most things these days...it's all about the money.

You might want to further describe what you are reacting to and talking about as not every one may be aware of the situation....including me

The 39 degree water on bottom is where the fish and the bait will be for a bit yet at both ends of the lake and still out quite deep especially the lakers. Hopefully this darned weather will warm up seriously soon although I'm not real confident at the moment

bondouley - you have a PM

Yes Art we're all keeping our fingers crossed....and the wind may also help cut down on potential flooding as it sure wicks away some moisture.

:yes:

The way things are going now....it could be ice fishing for them....off the floating ice floes

My bet is you'll get a bunch of different answers here... . I've experimented over the years with a lot of different setups and now basically for me it depends on what I'm running and even how deep. Browns are notoriously "line shy" which is the main reason for using the lightest fluoro leader you can get away with. Water conditions also play into things. If you are riding the mud line and going in and out of cloudy water the line weight, leader length and terminus selected (smallest black ball bearing swivel, smallest yet strongest duolock snap, or black Fastsnap) become less important than when you are fishing clear water in shallow and especially in the Finger Lakes where the water can be much clearer than Lake O. I also run my lines back much further back than usual (whether on boards or not - varies depending on wind/wave conditions). With that said if I'm running speed "tolerant" stick baits I often go with either a tiny black swivel snap (if changing lures very frequently) or duolock directly to the lure with a tiny black barrel swivel tied at the other end of it to my main mono line. For "fussier" sticks that may even have to be "tuned" beforehand they sometimes work better tied directly to the end of the light fluoro leader with a loop type knot that allows the lure to be free to "roam" a bit (or you can "adjust it for tighter running) or I use Fastsnaps (Size Large is really quite small). With most spoons either a very small black (SOLID RING) ball bearing swivel (for quick changes) or small black duolocks or Fastsnaps with a small black barrel spliced in above where the leader meets the main line. I also run various lengths on my leaders and have even used 4 6 lb test fluoro on the Finger Lakes with a light drag setting (not on Lake O though ) I think this may cover some of the basic ways anyhow.

Hey Jeff you got that Proline ready to go witht he nose pointed toward the driveway as soon as the weather breaks? Don't think I'd be tying all my Seth Greens with it at that price