Sk8man

It will be ice there for a while yet unless we get a real warm spell with rain etc. This year the whole lake froze up.

I'm with Gambler. I've had my Cannon (adjustable boom and swivel bases)10A's since the early 1980's and aside for new power cords on them....that is it...never a problem with them.

Well on the plus side is the fact that unlike many of us you were able to get out there after them. As far as the lamprey scars it sounds a lot like the situation on Seneca some years back before they achieved some control of the lampreys. Browns are particularly vulnerable as are lakers because of their bottom oriented habits. It sure is disturbing to see beautiful fish with those nasty SOB' s attached or scarred all to hell though. It is all the more important to keep the pressure on DEC and be as supportive (vocal) of their efforts as we can regarding the lampracide treatments as there are some vocal environmental groups who either don't know anything about fishing or don't really care about it ...they are just paranoid of any chemicals introduced into the lake. Thinking back on those days when Seneca was really a "mess" we were all pretty "demoralized" but DEC really came through in the long run and things are much improved now over that period of time.....so we need to keep in mind that the changes are not real quick but the improvement is worth the wait so don't give up hope.

Thanks Nick ....much appreciated.

Nice job Nick! It sure makes me wish I was out there right now and despite living here near Canandaigua Lake.... Seneca is still "home" for me.....I hope this year is the best ever for you and the other "southenders" and my other Seneca "homies" at the north end Tight lines bud! Les

Around here they are caught suspended at night through the ice with lanterns next to the hole out deep with 2-4 lb test on light jigging poles with #12 gold hooks and spikes. If you put a couple or three spikes on you will catch them on just the spikes as their teeth get caught on them (the spikes) and it saves time getting back down after them without having to unhook them. Sometimes huge lakers will be in the mix so bring extra rigs They light up a flasher like a Christmas tree! We used to get tons of them with dip nets on Seneca and Canandaigua Lake tribs (among others) but they are pretty much history now....

They also work on lakers and pike.....I used to have pretty good luck with the dark blue and silver. They hold up well because they are metal instead of plastic etc. and dig down a little deeper.....careful real shallow

Go get em Kevin....one of my good buds said to me the other day........"Kevin is my idol",,,,,he does it all.... panfish,eyes, bass, pike, crappies, deer and birds....you name it! He didn't get any argument from me

Dick - You might also want to look at the Shakespeare Ugly stick 8' 3 '' downrigger rods...very durable and versatile.

Duckdog's suggestion is a great one and may be the way to get the best out of your material John.

Yes Justin trolling with copper is less dependent on weight or other characteristics of the lures (say shape or diving design) and more about characteristics of the copper itself and speed factors. Whereas the lure "guides" the line with mono and braid the copper itself (e.g. stiffness and weight) "guides" the lure is how I perceive the relationship.

As long as you aren't doing much SUMMER fishing in Lake O (and other unfortunate lakes) when the fleas are active you should be OK. Although there may be some "loading" of fleas on the wire too but it seems less than the braid. But with some"elbow grease" the stuff can be removed....just a pain sometimes. That was my reasoning on the wire suggestion but I hear you on the expense (but it does last a long time if treated carefully- mainly tension kept on the reel at all times even during transport). We all have our "trade off"s financially and otherwise so follow your own desires after seeking input and give things a shot...it isn't going to be the end of the earth" no matter which things you try and you can always switch later if it doesn't work out....it wasn't mentioned but most of us have "been there done that" and some multiple times till we found what we like. The main thing is to have fun...Best of luck to you whichever way you decide to go. Les P.S. Always nice to buy the "best" in equipment but not everyone is able to do so or at a given time. As I said earlier (and especially in light of your "light" fishing use - the 45DX's should work out fine either way you go....I've used them and they are pretty decent reels for the money regardless what might have already been said. If you are primarily using your lead core without intending it being fully extended or off boards where it is best to have a section mono or braid spliced in you can probably get a lot if not all of the 20 colors on it with say 50 ft of backing to be used just to "seat" the line more evenly and prevent slippage (if that is the thing you want to try) Okuma 45DX's (since you already have them and they seem heavier duty to me than the 30's) can be used with the wire but with more backing....and a twilli tip or roller tip on the rod -very important.

Just a suggestion - the addition of the second ten colors of leadcore may not do what you might be thinking about.....it probability will not get down to double the depth of the 10 colors and may be less effective in achieving depth itself (it bows out at some certain depth and may be more and more so at increasing speeds bringing it upward) because the backing with10 colors cuts through the water better than the 20 colors of lead core, is much clumsier to deal with, and is a "long haul" in retrieving especially with a fighting fish at the other end with a non-high gear ratio reel....just something to think about.... You'd probably be better off if for increased depth situations you elected to use 30 lb stranded wire with Deeper Dipseys or maxed out magnums or even downriggers run back aways.