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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Just make sure everything is fastened to the boat real well. When the weight is suspended or even when up in the air there is a lot of torque at the base from the weight dangling not to mention if the weight should get hung upon bottom. If you plan on using dipsey divers the rod holders will also have to be fastened down real well for the same reason as the downriggers -torque. I'd practice a bit with the downriggers to get used to them If going out on Lake O you will have to choose your days (wind and waves etc.) and Stay relatively close to shore. In the Spring the browns and other fish will be close to shore so you'll be fine and you might want to start out with a combination of stickbaits and medium sized flutter spoons run 30-60 ft back behind the downriggers and experiment with the distance of the leads (shorter and longer). If you have Yellowbirds or small inline planer boards and relatively stiff action rods the boards can be run right along the shoreline with floating stickbaits (floating to keep from hanging up on bottom and rocks etc.). Sometimes the fish especially browns will be hugging the shore in very shallow water especially in the early morning before things get too bright and when there is a chop on the water. Productive areas include river or stream mouths especially where here is a mud line....fish the edge of it where the color line is. go back and forth in it with your lines. Troll in "s" curves and vary your speed up and down intermittently. Other folks may have additional suggestions or different ways of doing it but this is some basic stuff to start. Good luck with it. Have a great season.
  2. Hopefully there is a legitimate deal out there somewhere and not just someone just testing the water in terms of price Bob.
  3. I would think it might be wise to experiment to see what might do the trick without adding too much weight initially up front as it will effect your top speed, trolling and the way your boat handles. I'd go with the minimum you need to keep the bow down to come up on plane and still handle OK and cut through the water fine at lower speeds while trolling. Every boat is different in terms of weight distribution and it will take some experimentation to get the right "balance".
  4. First of all welcome to LOU. A couple questions to start - what kind of pole holders and how sturdy are they? and...what specific downriggers and releases?
  5. Sk8man

    New PB Eye

    Beauty.... congratulations!
  6. Guess that is why I've always had Whalers
  7. I just don't accept at face value all the marketing hype that a lot of folks accept as gospel truth without questioning the logic of it much like the "herd mentality". In other words.....We can't even SEE UV light and it is highly possible that fish can't either.... so all the marketing hype just might be a SCAM.... I wasn't trying to be a smart azz either I fully believe what I am saying...The stuff that actually glows from the lures is not truly UV light or it too would be invisible to us.
  8. I guess one of the things that strikes me is that UV rays are invisible to humans and I would assume that true UV light emanating from UV finishes would be as well so the electromagnetic wave lengths that we perceive are not the same UV wavelengths that the fish may be perceiving. I say "may" because I haven't seen anything in the way of actual research yet that has conclusively determined that they have that capability despite all the marketing hype directed at fishermen and anecdotal information concerning results of specific lures with alleged UV capability. I still maintain that color - especially in deep water presentations is further down on the decision tree for fish than more basic things like figure-ground discrimination, contrast, and movement/motion discrimination (e.g lure "action") as it is for most visual systems within most species of animal life. Human perception of color is determined by our brains interpreting incoming wavelengths of light (a small sample possible in the electromagnetic spectrum compared to other species) and agreeing through language on a description of what that "color" is called. Whether other species with different rod/cone formations or the absence thereof actually detect those "colors" as such is an open question. Eye physiology plays an important role in that deeper water "bottom dwellers" may have different eye structure and make-up because they don't really NEED color perception in their primary environment (i.e. more rods than cones etc.) and if so they may be perceiving shades of gray rather than true "colors" Just my theory of it but thought I'd throw it out there....
  9. That is a real bargain....they still work well when used right and sometimes even when Spinny's and Flashers aren't doing it....glad I held on to mine from the 70's and 80's
  10. Always worth a shot John especially at the price you paid for the material Best of luck with it!
  11. Often a table "jig" is made to assist in the process of getting accurate bends as well as a mechanical or handheld bender used to prevent "folding" at the bends. Sometimes if the steel has a high nickel content (there are various grades of hardness in ss) it will be much more difficult to bend and careful heat treating is needed to prevent damage to the material. Helps to have the right equipment to do it right.
  12. Also known as Seth Green rig....wow I guess I am getting old
  13. Geez Tim I figured you'd read between the lines..... sorry about that...http://midcurrent.com/science/fish-eyesight-does-color-matter/
  14. This article primarily concerns fly fishing in saltwater but many of the basic principles may apply to trout fishing and trolling in fresh water as well. Just something to take us away from obsessing about warmer weather
  15. I've been using 7 strand wire for well over thirty five years so I'm somewhat familiar with keeping the reels in the right position but I also fish a lot alone and between controlling the boat and netting fish and boards pulling etc. s**t happens The interesting thing is on all my other wire and thermocline rods the side rails are hardened so never a problem like this. The really good roller tips are about a hundred bucks or more so I'll stick with this set up for now. I've had some twillis for years but I'm not crazy about them....rather deal with the rollers. I just wanted to give a "heads up" as far as periodic checking of equipment now that we are (hopefully) heading into the real fishing season
  16. Yeah he had a similar bunch a couple days before ....you might want to keep some of your secrets in jigging to yourself (i.e. from your girlfriend) too because she may end up out jigging you like my kid does to me
  17. My kid fished it today too by himself for 5 hrs. and here's what he ended up with....makes me kinda wish I'd been there too
  18. Sorry to hear it Mike but real good thing you discovered now in the downtime and before something happened. Good luck with things bud. Les
  19. Mine are Shakespeare salt water rods.
  20. As i mentioned above the Church TX 44's allow you to run most heavier lines and they are just about as easily seen with flags up as conventional boards and other than with real big waves and you probably wouldn't want to run boards then anyway even if they do cut through the water OK.
  21. They came standard on my TX 44 boards but I made some from stiff "piano" wire for my Yellowbirds and used orange duck tape made into a square for the flags (waterproof and works good). In Spring traffic or derbies I run my outrigger s instead of boards and people see me coming and generally stay away. I also put some fluorescent tape "bands" on the outriggers to make them fairly idiot proof
  22. I know most guys use twilli tips for their stranded wire rigs and that apparently the 19 strand Torpedo wire is reputed to be less abrasive to rod tips and guides but in checking over my (7 strand wire) stuff today and re-tying all terminal knots and connections I was a bit surprised when I inspected the ROLLER TIP of my rod (after one season with them). I had figured that I would be OK with less expensive roller tips because the really good saltwater stuff is VERY pricey. I never had any actual problems this season despite a lot of heavy action with them from salmon etc. The attached pic is what I found.....the stainless wheel part of the roller is fine but the damage occurred to the support side pieces which are a softer metal. The rod eyes were fine. I also had a nearly invisible kink in the 30 lb wire a few inches from the tip so it was pretty lucky I checked things out...just a FYI in the way of disaster prevention
  23. I second Zack's advice. If it is space on the boat you want to save just go with inlines....the TX 44's are a good choice for running most stuff....
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