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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. TROPHY (BLANKED OUT ON THAT ONE)???? SUSPENDED HYBRID DODGER FISHERY Fridays???? Best I could do Tom.....really got my head spinning
  2. I'd report it to the DEC could be a localized toxic substance release as well as something more related to nature....either way ...not good...
  3. A big DITTO on Tim's suggestion.....Paul's work is tops! Les
  4. Well, sweet new ride and no matter what ....you always have to play around to get things just right on your own rig. Good luck with things this coming season.
  5. Just don't set it PAST the 3 (and thinking you'll get more out of it) because I'll come right up to the surface I usually set them it at1 and 2 1/2 or so but it also matters what else you are running (e.g. downriggers as well or running them from boards etc.?). There are a variety of patterns to use that will work and it also depends on your particular boat width where you have your rod holders placed and downrigger boom lengths etc. it usually takes some playing around on your particular boat to see which is best for you.
  6. Tiger Hunter - I've used the SLR's since the mid 90's and just a heads up....on most of them the shutters are good for about 50,000- 60,000 shots or so....which sounds like a lot but with digital you take many more than you would with the old film cameras and it happens in no time...I have several Canons D SLR's sitting here to prove it The other thing I should mention is that one of them was dropped into a minnow bucket on the boat accidentally...bye bye $1,000 instantaneously. I now use only a Sony 16 megapixel point and shoot that is much safer and more practical (fits in a pocket) on a boat.
  7. Your family will be in our prayers Kev.
  8. Pap- You may have to play with the sensitivity/gain setting (reducing it) to find a place where you can still mark bottom and see what you need to while decreasing the amount of clutter. Some units have a special setting to reduce clutter and it is often hidden (nested) in the menu options.
  9. May thisThanksgiving be the absolute best you've ever had.....we all have a lot to be thankful for just living in this country.
  10. Over the years a main theme in Lake O seems to have been GREEN anything....lures, attractors, flies....you name it. Much of the year the water has a distinct green cast to it. My hunch is that the green color of the objects in the greenish water maybe enhanced by the natural sunlight at certain levels or at times of the day appear more "natural" to the fish and they may be more likely to strike objects that color more readily or frequently....just a thought....but I still think that the action and proximity (closeness in space) are more likely to get results and is why it matters the distance from attractors both from the ball and from the attractor to lure for example
  11. I've had Heathkit, Vexilar, Impulse, Hummingbird and Lowrance but my choice for the money would be Furuno...they are far and away the best unit and are used by commercial fishermen all over the world.
  12. Might want to think about getting a styrofoam fish and doing your "artwork" on it
  13. Kev, I'm enlisting the aid of my whole family bud and I know you and your family have the support of the LOU "family" as well. Many of us can personally relate to this issue and we are with you. Hang in there and remember that a positive attitude toward the situation by all can very much help in dealing with it and may also greatly affect the outcome. I'm attaching a pic of what my dad gave me when he was fighting lymphoma and I keep it right here on the wall next to me as a constant reminder. Les
  14. On mine GPS and the fish finder are about within 1-2 tenths
  15. I bought the upgrade drags for my new SG3b's but found the drag that came on them works great so I'm just holding on to the drag disks for the future....I figure that it might be worth it on older reels but why mess with it if things are going fine...
  16. Whichever one had the right speed and action and was closest to the fish and looked right in the water....when you look at the variety of things above it seems pretty clear to me
  17. Winter fishing in general suggests slower speeds for silvers as well as other fish. The fish's metabolism slows down in the extremely cold water. Over the years 1.9-2.3 has been the ticket for me in the winter (even in snow storms in mid Feb. ). In the summer and Fall these same (rainbows and landlocks) fish will hit at 2.5-3.2
  18. Another alternative to all roller setups is a roller tip and a main first roller guide (the eye nearest the handle). the eyes in between don't get any stress from the wire so no cuts in them.
  19. Gambler is right....and also put small amount (50ft or so) of 30 lb. test Big Game mono on the spool first (not braid) to protect the spool from potential damage from the wire as it tightens over time (this is from the reel repair guy at TunaTom's). I used a #8 Spro swivel and it will go through the line guide/level wind mechanism (should it ever be necessary).
  20. Pap - Here in NYS if you buy the bait in a store you have to have a ticket with the date, how many you bought, and the initials of the person selling. It is good for 10 days from that date. If you aquire commercially prepared bait in a store or online you are supposed to keep the packaging that came with it as proof. There are some (many) bodies of water where possession is not permitted of live or "dead" bait. If you harvest your own sawbellies or smelt etc. they can only be used (as bait) in the body of water in which they originated. In that case you would not have a "ticket" and the burden of proof would be on you.
  21. Yes it is Ed. The "pipes" out front were mentioned just for reference purposes...not warm water discharge.
  22. All 7 strand trolling wire is potentially subject to kinking...mainly related to "slack" of any type. Some of the most popular brands for fishing/trolling (not beading or jewelery creation as much of it is for) are: Bloodrun 7 strand, Malin7, Mason 7 strand, AWF Surfstrand and Accustrand. Each brand seems to have it's "supporters" and most runs about $40-50 or so for 1,000 ft of 30lb test (most commonly run). There are any number of ways to fasten it at critical points including knotting, crimping, transitioning and use of high quality swivels (e.g. Spro #8's and10's). Each method has it's merits and drawbacks....and when all is said and done it seems to relate to personal preference and personal experience primarily. You are going to lose some equipment eventually while fishing no matter what.... period....and it may relate to the wire itself but usually it is more a matter of how it is rigged, stressed or allowed to gain slack and curl then kink....just have to be careful with it and constantly check it out for potential weak spots.
  23. During the winter months the landlocks and brown fishing has historically been most productive at the extreme south end although the area near Sampson can be good as well. Out in front of Dresden near the "pipes" and around the creek mouth can have some decent brown fishing as well as some nice rainbows when the water flow in the Keuka Outlet is right. On the other hand you can limit out on really big lakers and once in awhile big browns as well at the north end by either trolling with flashers and flies or cowbells and peanuts down near bottom or jigging if the wind is down. Around early March huge lakers (and Pike) come into the shallow water at the north end and you can catch them on toplines with "wobbly" lures like KOWobblers, Daredeveles as well as jointed J-9 and 11 Rapalas trolled way back behind the boat (e.g. 200-300 ft) on light line (8-12 lb test) with a couple of large split shot about3 ft from the lure. The rainbows are usually quite scarce during the winter months although once in awhile they can be found in shallow near stream mouths (Wilson, Kashong, Keuka) and the drop-off area near Roy's
  24. Some of the best fishing has been off Long Pier in "G town" No boat necessary....sorry fellas I know I wasn't supposed to say anything
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