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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Sweet!
  2. I use roller tip rods so there is quite a bit of "clearance". If it were me I'd probably splice in a #8 (50 b test) Spro power swivel and they are small enough to go through the tip and eyes of my downrigger rods as well. Look up the wire knot to use on Youtube.
  3. I've hit bottom at 127 ft.with a deeper diver on 30 lb 7 strand with less than 200 ft. and set at 2 out so it is possible regardless what the charts are saying....a commonly used one was based on mono so there is a lot to be said for experimenting if you are using wire.
  4. It is actually spelled Chidsey Point. It is on the Branchport arm of the lake southwest on a diagonal across the lake from Keuka Lake State Park.
  5. Nice going Ed! Looks as though Seneca will be out of browns soon the way you and Andy have been going at it
  6. Nice going Justin and cools pics of the Tiger...they truly are a neat fish....
  7. That might be just the ticket Jitterbug....
  8. Frogger is right... Seneca would be my first choice because it seems to be the most active lake fishing wise around here this season. With anything out of the N, NW, or W it is fishable below 20 mph winds from those directions along the west side with some protection. The only time you don't want to be launching or fishing at the north end otherwise is with a stiff S, SE, or SW wind (irrelevant because you'd probably still be able to be fishing Lake O in that case) or a severe east wind (which seldom happens at this time of year on Seneca). Best of luck on the kings!
  9. Go get em tiger !
  10. Ed's setup is the nuts for Seneca and it certainly is worth a try on Keuka and I will myself next time there. The last two times on Keuka were only good for a few small lakers and I don't think we marked more than five or six fish in both trips combined. The picture is radically different than Seneca...given that was a few weeks ago but I haven't heard anyone doing well on Keuka for trout other than jigging for lakers for quite awhile. The lake seems quite different than a few years ago too fish-wise but it always has been very different in terms of the bottom structure and bottom composition, and in fact is something like three different lakes all in one with each branch having a very different profile. For years it was the primary domain of still fishermen, night fishing, and copper jerkers for that reason and usually early AM and evening into night time for the trout other than fishing for lakers out deep in the 'hole" out from the State Park, the bluffs area, and out from Marlena Point . Day time has usually been the main providence of bassers and perch fishermen for many years. I like trying different stuff now days and screwing around with setups and different tackle etc. but if I had to depend on catching browns, rainbows, or landlocks for dinner I think I'd return to the old methods of the past which weren't nearly as much fun but worked to put those fellas in the boat. Keuka is a very different "animal" than either Seneca, Cayuga, or Owasco from a consistency of fishing standpoint and in my view it is a harder lake to successfully fish for those trout species other than lakers; especially trolling.
  11. As far as the night fishing goes I was trying to suggest the easiest method to use but we used to have specific rigs something like mini-thermocline rigs with 3 short leaders (say 6 ft.) on them spaced on bead chains about 15 ft apart with a sinker at the bottom and drift with it...but you had to choose your night carefully for it (very calm still nights). Nothing like falling asleep while anchored hearing the drag going out with a big rainbow or brown on the other end....really got the heart thumping As far as hooking the live bait. We did them through the skin (carefully not deep or near the spine) near the head side of the dorsal with the double hooks pointed away from the head. With lakers in usual still fishing you wait for them to turn the bait around in their mouth normally (which is why you don't pull on them during the initial run), but with browns, rainbows and landlocks they usually really slam it right from the start at the head area mostly so they have the hook already in their mouth right from the start. As far as lures go: stickbaits maybe blue or black jointed J-9 Rapala (but bass like blue ones too) Renegade, or possibly a Yozuri. I'd stay away from the perch finish stuff as the Pickerel love them if you are in close. Spoons - Small Stingers or HoneyBees, Small to medium Suttons (44, 22, 5, 8,11, 31, 41) the small version Evil Eyes in black or silver with orange stripe, I'd stay away from the larger spoons for them there (e.g. NK28's or Mags etc.) and use faster trolling speeds this time of year 2.5-3.0. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  12. Pretty much the same picture here too Ed. Think I'll spend sometime organizing stuff and making up some new leaders etc. Good luck if it calms down and you decide to go. Les
  13. Guppy is right about the lakers taking over out there and a couple things come to mind in terms of catching browns landlocks and rainbows; 1. The Hammondsport end and the Branchport arm used to be very good night fishing places for browns and rainbows if you are trolling you might want to try very early in the AM in those areas such as just before daylight. 2. Live bait (if you can get sawbellies) try the night fishing on a calm night either slowly drifting or anchored with the sawbellies on a set up like that used in still fishing in 70-100ft of water with a lantern or light hung over the side to call bugs and the bait will come up for them with the fish often following them to the spot. Try in closer if no takers or the lakers are there. 3. Big browns, landlocks and rainbows can compete with the large lakers in close (where small ones might be eaten) so in the very early AM around daylight and shortly thereafter they can sometimes be found near docks and other structure in the shallows well out of their preferred temperature range. Trolling planer boards near shore along the shorelines similar to what is done in the Spring can be productive (although you may get into the bass as well depending on your lure selection etc. Also trying the near shore areas out from the motel at Hammondsport or towards the end of the Branchport arm in late evening or early morning might do something. The lakers for the most part will be in deeper water this time of the year while browns especially can tolerate much warmer water temps so you can fish them shallower. You might also be able to take advantage of the lakers love for the bottom by having your lines up off there where the roaming browns and rainbows will get a better chance. Good luck!
  14. Justin - I forgot to mention you need a rod with a stiff backbone and tip section. and rod holders that would work for say a large size dipsey setup. For the depth setup you mentioned if you do it... I'd stay with just 3 leaders 12 ft apart and if small to medium spoons or stickbaits (with singles and I've had better luck with jointeds staying in line) you wouldn't need as much weight either or as heavy a rod. Regarding the tangling - :smile: been there done that! Good luck with it.
  15. All mine are black plastic/rubberized coated, but who really knows? To my knowledge the fish haven't been polled on it yet....Its kinda like the lady that dyes her hair "Only her hairdresser knows for sure"
  16. Hi Justin, For an impromptu rig you could use a gallon milk jug (perhaps a half gallon if the weight isn't too great)...maybe a 16-20 oz sinker. To attach it to the main line take a piece of downrigger wire or something similarly strong and use crimps make a couple loops in the handle of the jug with a large strong swivel snap on it.I'd use 50 lb braid (less resistance in the water and should be plenty strong and if you don't have bead chains strong barrels will do it but they have to be small enough to go through the eyes of the rod easily . I'd use something like #6 (80 lb test) Spro power swivels (for non-roller tip) or #4 (150 lb test) if roller tip if you can get them. Don't use the fluoro for the main rig line use 30 lb Big Game mono instead the fluoro is too brittle and the fish will be a distance from it anyway. The spacing is a matter of preference but I do mine 12 ft apart so that I can run them in a close band if going in shallower (or if I want to run right in the thermocline straddling it) than usual or at 24 ft. intervals if deeper. This requires double the number of bead chains or barrels (10) (and potentially increased risk of separations if knots aren't right but to me it is worth it for the flexibility). If running 5 leaders and you go with that setup make the leaders 12 ft long or if spacing them say 15 ft make them that long so that if your motor stops for some reason and they hang down they won't get badly tangled. I'm not familiar with the depth profile of Tupper but keep in mind if you went with say 20 ft intervals you'll need about 90 ft. or so depth at trolling speed at all times to clear bottom. That is why I use the 12,24,36 etc, setup for shallower coverage. You can also run just 3 leaders in close and go into say 45 or 50 ft of water. Seth Greens are mostly used deep to avoid problems. Instead of the spring clips I showed you many folks have used a small swivel snap at each end of the leader and snap it through the eye of the barrels. I don't know if Tupper has fleas etc. ..if not 12lb fluoro should be sufficient for your leaders there or mono will work too. Let me know if anything isn't clear here. Les
  17. Keep the 50 lb on the fly it absorbs the main shock.
  18. Regarding the closeness to the ball....just a hunch but I think the fact that it can be a couple feet from the ball suggests that they see it as one unit with whatever you are presenting.....at longer distances they may see the ball and the attractor as separate objects and think that the attractor is "chasing" the ball and that the lure is something smaller that may be vulnerable in some way. ....just armchair analysis not scientific fact.
  19. 6-12 ft. fr F/F and Spin Docs and 15-50 for spoons/sticks usually - Deeper short -Higher longer - sliders 7-8 ft. for downriggers If not successful...distance changes made may be drastically different until a connection is made along with changes - and then changes in lures and speeds
  20. That is a very good question.... but it very much depends on what you are running and what you are trying to catch, what water you are on, and what equipment you are referring to for starters...seriously....
  21. That's cool....he is a good guy and and really knows his stuff....hard to find someone as motivated as he is these days and very refreshing. He is a real credit to chartering....as is Sean Brown.
  22. Yeah what's the hold up on the docks? I thought they would have them in in the Spring.....unreal... because that ramp gets quite a bit of use from large boats too so it's a struggle with that railing.
  23. Nice going Mike. Congrats on the personal best salmon bud. Les
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