Sk8man

Guess I'll stick with my old brass spring loaded one from 30 years ago (no name on it) it has been within 1/2 of an ounce of the derby scale multiple times.....my digital Berkeley "sticks" and fails to release so I gave up on it...

Hey Walter...I guess you hit the jackpot on info on that one!

Good going Rick

The rings on the conventional dipseys can be a real pain and I've been gluing etc. a dozen or two of them for years. Recently, I bought a pair of Deeper Divers to try to get away from the problem and test a different solution and so far so good. They are weighted more heavily and don't use the rings to achieve depth. I have the 124 mm size (largest) and they will go down over 100 ft with about the same amount of line out that the conventional ones use to get down 60 or 70 ft. Here is the link: http://www.trollingdivers.com/

Cool....probably the increased "rounded" nature of the line diameter reduces the friction and "sawing action" then....5 years should be an adequate test of it...

You can also use rubber bands on the wire in releases with the tension set right without kinking or fraying. I would wonder however if OVER TIME any wire would wear and subsequently degrade conventional tips and eyes - anything but say a titanium tip or guide. Metal on metal is almost always going to degrade, wear, or cut through the "softer metal". This might not be apparent (i.e. "sawing action" ) to the naked eye until a failure occurs.

The problem at the tip is why I use a rod with a roller tip rather than twillis (although I have twilli tips). With a roller tip you don't have to use all the copper unless you are running it from boards and releases. If running copper from either of those it is best to use dedicated rods with a set amount on it attaching to backing or spliced mono segments. I run my main copper as 600ft. but not off releases (i.e.down the chute) and usually as close to bottom as I can get without hanging up and letting out only as much as I need to get where I want to be.

The regular clinch knot is fine as long as you keep cinching it up as tightly as possible when tied and pull like h on it to test it out and cinch again....never had one let loose...

They can be done that way but the multi section approach seems to affect the way the copper runs in the water....and every knot or swivel is a potential weak spot but for some guys it is the preferred method. I prefer to set up dedicated length of copper with a small barrel swivel (that will easily fit through rod tip) or Albright knot (I also use a SMALL amount of CLEAR hot glue on knots to keep them from unraveling as an added precaution) between 50 pound Power Pro backing and the copper and then the copper then a small barrel swivel to a leader of mono or fluoro (various lengths) with a solid ring ball bearing swivel on the end. I usually run my copper in the chute rather than from a board or outrigger and use braid or wire for that.

Splice in a section of strong mono or braid and use that in your release to avoid potentially kinking (or weakening) the copper.

L&M's suggestion is the one I'd go with if it were me. I didn't know that John was even back here in NYS (had moved to Florida way back when) He did the original canvas and dodger for my old whaler back in 1979 and he was very reasonable as well as one of the best canvas guys I've seen. The dodger lasted for over 22 years (just replacements of the clear vinyl window) and was the best investment I've made in my entire life.

Geordie Magee in Brewerton does good work.

The canal in back of Mays Point (between Seneca Falls and Savannah) might be worth a shot and then there is the canal section at Alloway or while there try the Canandaigua Outlet section between Route 96 (5 Points area) and Alloway (especially near the large open field on the bend). Use shiners and shiners and shiners.

I went out to my boat and checked the diameter of the holes ("2 ") I then went to the store and bought some rubber sink drain plugs (3 in the assorted sizes for $1.97 for each of 2 pkgs. They are the rubber type with the metal split ring in the center. I tried them out in the inside holes and they (the largest sized one) blocked it off fine. I already have rubber covers on the outside of the transom and have neever had a problem of water coming in but these are my safety backups now.....pretty inexpensive solution. They insert right into the holes and I can pull them out by grasping the metal ring. Another potential solution I saw in the plumbing section is something (white rubber) for sink drains that completely covers the hole (about 3 inches in diameter) and at the center of it you can depress it with your finger and it pops open (and closed) the center portion of it while the outside rubber ring stays put sealing it (it could be glued with marine adhesive) except for the part where you want to let water out and then depress the center and it seals back up. I think they were about $4.00 each. The things are called Peerless (company) Pop-up Stopper (PRL054)

I tie a small piece of red yarn every 50 ft and put a spot of super glue to keep it from unraveling ...works fine. I also have one setup with a Berkeley Line (add on) Counter that works OK but I always wonder if is going to kink the wire

Have a great birthday Chad. Savor every moment because when the baby arrives you will be so busy you'll probably forget its your birthday next time

Still too early for Lock 26 try in late June and early July with shiners