Sk8man

Yankee is right - in order to get the most from your Lowrance especially in shallow water applications (where the 200 works best at marking fish) and then using the 50khz out deeper where it excels at marking depth just use the Lowrance otherwise you're kind of p...ing in the wind with both units competing (or interfering) for signal at 200khz

Another thing is that the waves etc. usually become SECONDARY when you realize that much of the time you can't control your boat (direction or speed) properly to catch much of anything and tangles are the rule rather than the exception. It sure can take the fun out of it when the wind cranks up...

I've used sliders since the 70's and the free ranging sliders have always worked best but as Dave has said they do usually stay in the belly of the line (but on turns they seem to ride up a bit). I usually put my first lure (attached to the release) down 10-20 ft (depending on how shallow water it is too) and then I add the slider to my line on an 8 ft leader with a small flutter spoon and run them down to where I want them. Most of the time you will want the leader shorter than your rod (my downrigger rods are 8 1/2 ft.) so you can net the fish easily unless you're into hand lining them If you run heavier spoons there is more of a chance of a tangle on turns or at very slow speeds (or if your other downrigger is close to it). Most of the time rainbows or landlocks or small browns (or a crazy smallmouth) will be the ones that hit it. When you pop your downrigger (or better yet if a fish does it) the slider slides down to the swivel of your other lure and extends past it. Most of the time you won't be tangled but it can happen....especially if you have used a stick bait on one of them

If you are going to use lead core for deep fishing for lakers you are going to end up with popeye arms if you're into "working out" it'll be great.... On the other hand, leadcore certainly has its place in the "arsenal" but deep water fishing for lakers isn't a real strength of it. I'd set up something SPECIFICALLY geared toward catching them at depth to make it easier on yourself. Use wire or downriggers where you can easily get down there and where you have much more control over the actual depth and I'm pretty sure you will greatly increase your success rate as well as keep your arms from wearing out After reeling in a few "snakes" on the lead core (especially with a sinker on it) and having to put it out each time you'll get a feel for what I'm saying....A wire rig (of various types) in my view is the way to go for lakers when they are deep. Save the lead core setup for the shallower water stuff when the lakers aren't as deep or "toplining" with it rather than the deeper water trolling or bottom fishing which is mostly where the lakers are during much of the year.

If that doesn't work I'd check the marina at Branchport. I know they used to rent slips but may also rent trailer space on land there.

At least you gave it a shot....the closest I came was taking the dog for a walk today and even that was pretty cold

You might want to contact Geordee Magee. He has a number of crews that cover a wide area (not sure how far west buthe does Rochester area too).He does good canvas work and he stands behind his work. canvas work is not cheap no matter where you go ( for quality work). I've had him do several thousand dollars worth of stuff on my boat and it has all been good. Here is his website: http://mageecanvas.com/

Ahh Nemesis good point.....I never thought about that... thanks!

A big on Falmouth. My in laws live in Eastham-Orleans and the Cape rocks. I've been going there during the summer since 1967. Love to surf fish for Stripers off the shore at Nauset Beach, Coastguard Beach and by boat with sand eels off Chatham in the rip near Monomoy (although the seals are a pain and now the Great whites have moved in there to get them) .

Rather than shrink wrapping it I use a hot glue gun on the wrap especially the tag end (clear stuff and I can see through it to see if problems works fine...

Regardless of which ball bearing swivel you decide to use make absolutely sure it is a SOLID RING swivel. The split ring type can cut your line with a big fish on them when the line slides to the opening part of the ring and wedges (despite tying the knot properly and tightly)....it probably cost me a trout derby in the past....and I change out the snaps with duolock snaps which vary in strength and size so I can adjust for specific rigs, fish species etc. or buy just the ball bearing part and add my own duolocks accordingly.

I'm assuming that the second battery is DEEP CYCLE but regardless If it were me I'd do them SEPARATELY. They will be drawing current differently. Usually there is a different setting on the conventional charger for each type battery as well that you select before charging.

It is during the NON-FLEA season but not DURING flea season. No fleas on copper and copper reaches greater depth easier. On the downside it can kink much more easily too if you aren't careful with it. I think that 7 strand stainless wire is superior to both of them most of the time and if weights are used can get down to greater depths than either are capable of for less footage out.

Oh and should I mention.....back in the early eighties during the ESLO Spring Derby my fishing buddy and I had a ritual of the first guy to lose a fish had to chug a beer no matter what time of day etc. Well....I lost one right as we started the second day at about 6 :30 AM or so. I hadn't eaten breakfast that day either . I chugged the beer but that is the only time I ever felt queazy on the water... and it was the last time I suggested the ritual. Moral of the story: Don't drink beer before 7 AM or on an empty stomach OR think it might be the other guy that always loses

You can also use inline sinker (few ounces) where the leader attaches to the main line.... or use a good sized duolock snap on the split ring (suspended) of your swivel and hang the sinker from that. (I'm assuming a short leader with this setup allowing you to net the fish with the sinker still attached) but for longer leaders you can unsnap the weight on the way in from the duolock snap if you use the duolock setup or else hand line in the rest of the way. Been doing it for years and it works.

Thanks again Flyrod2 ...for the report and your efforts.

That must be one heck of a year class of landlocks down there too because they look like the bunch of "cookie-cutter" ones we got a couple months ago there. They're a lot of fun.

And.....don't mention too much about flare guns because Emperor Cuomo might decide we can only have 1 cartridge

Way to go Sean...nice box of fish too!

Conesus is open water on the webcam

I don't think you'll be getting a whole lot of arguments on the expensiveness part of it