Sk8man

Not sure how much fishing you've done and trolling in particular but you may want to closely look at a lot of the stuff that has already been posted on here according to the species you are going after. If it is perch you are after trolling dipseys is not the usual or most effective way to get them although occasionally they can be caught this way. They are primarily caught either using live bait drifting or anchored, and jigging with live bait or jigging plastics using light tackle with 4 pound test mono. For trout/salmon on the other hand the small dipseys will work ok in the Spring in shallow with small to medium sized flutter spoons (large stickbaits (e.g. Rapalas etc.) don't work great with the smaller dipseys, but for the salmon you should be set up with medium to heavy equipment in the way of rods and reels and line (12 lb to 20 lb test). You should also have sturdy rod holders or at the least use safety lines on your equipment. As for the trolling I am wondering whether you will be using the 220 hp motor for it exclusively because usually that sized motor is not optimal for trolling speeds and if doing it for extended periods your plugs/engine components are likely to foul up. In terms of getting the grandson into some fish I'd head the boat up wind and then DRIFT back along the shoreline with the wind in about 10-25 ft. of water using live minnows, a worm harness, or jigs and plastics for perch just "ticking" tyhe bottom along the way (and an occasional smallmouth to be released until season opens in June :>) Good luck with it.

It may not be the prettiest solution but is it possible to use a hot glue gun on it? Gorilla glue is another possibility to try. Unfortuntely many times glues won't adhere properly the certain types of plastic until you find the right one

Its pretty much all been covered here (in terms of spoons, techniques etc.) but I figured I'd add my two cents as well. Lake trout are "opportunists" as are most of the trout family. They will basically feed on anything and everything and in the Spring the big ones even compete with large Northern Pike in the shallows without fear of predation. I have even found small perch and sunfish in their stomachs as well as a juvenile lake trout over the years. The key to fishing them is to create something resembling a weak, damaged, or otherwise "vulnerable" target. This can be done in all of the ways previously mentioned. Although colors size, shape etc. MAY be important the main thing is that the presentation takes advantage of ACTION related factors. They are for much of the year "bottom huggers" and aside from the early Spring and Late Fall are usually found near there. The use of cowbell flashers, dragging copper along the bottom. and running "secret weapon" rigs (section of lead core attached to downtrigger line to slope toward bottom) take advantage of this by stirring up things on bottom, creating a commotion to pique their curiosity, and presenting the appearance of a "wounded" prey. Slow trolling assists Lakers in making a decison to strrike the weak target or not as they try to conserve energy in the cold water most of the year and in large part prefer cooler temps (48-50 degrees) than the rest of the "tribe". Once you understand these things and transfer what the other folks have mentioned you will be successful in catching them.

Hey Fieromx3....I'm not sure the sharks in Lake Ontario are able to pick up the current real well :>)

Sounds as though you are lucky to have escaped the land of high taxes, disregard for the Constitution, the police state mentality and inept politicians like Emperor Cuomo :>).

I would definitely go with 150 lb. stainless steel downrigger cable but you need to carefully use the RIGHT DIAMETER CRIMP on it and crimp it correctly so there is no "wiggle" of the wire in the crimp. I have had the same SS wire on my downriggers since the mid 1980's without a failure of any kind.

Trebles often have the characteristic of the individual hooks working against each other in the fishes mouth when he is hooked such that in many cases it ends up being a weaker hookup (lose more fish) than with the single stainless steel siwash hooks designed for salmon and other large fish

If you folks need Daiwa parts and can't find them I've had great luck with the folks at Causeway Bait and Tackle on Long Island at http://www.causewaybaitandtackle.com/default.aspx As I remember the guy to speak with is Tom. They do reel repair there as well. They shipped parts to me next day without any problem.

Nick, I was just messin with you when I said "Southender" bud...I too appreciate both ends and the middle as well Some of my favorite spots are out from Dresden too... and I hear ya about being close to the boat (and thelandlocks as well :>)....I'm close to my trailer but that's about it :>) Les

I honestly don't think the color of the hook is a significant factor...it is primarily the action of the lure and perhaps the color or size of it. Although I have replaced all my flutter spoons and other spoons with single Mustad siwash SS salmon hooks, I have retained the original hooks on all my stickbaits to preserve the action of the lures which in some cases are highly sensitive to changes per se. (e.g. Rapalas). There may actually be an additional advantage to keeping on the original trebles as they are in most cases not as large nor as brittle as the stainess trebles and have a slight amount of "give" in them so that the hook doesn't pull out as easily (provided you don't HORSE) the fish) or tear the mouth of some fish (e.g. rainbows with delicate mouth structure). It is my belief that at least for the stickbaits it is not worth risking the change in action and unless you have a scale that weighs minute quantitative differences in hooks you can't be sure that won't happen.

I had the hinged Happy Troller and lost a lot at the top end and I thought it was much slower to get up on plane and eventually took it off.

Good going and Thanks Flyrod2

Fished Honeoye today (all day) from Trident marine. Be advised it is no longer possible to walk out there from Trident as of tonight . The ice near shore has been severely compromised (all broken up) by the bubbler near there and although there is about 5 inches out away from shore there is now no way to get to it from that location....today was it for the ice fishing for this season for me. Oh....and did I mention that I no longer have a cell phone? and.....that my Ice Armor suit saved my butt when I went in? Yup thats the kind of condition of the ice near the marina....

Fished Honeoye today (all day) from Trident marine. Be advised it is no longer possible to walk out there from Trident as of tonight . The ice near shore has been severely compromised (all broken up) by the bubbler near there and although there is about 5 inches out away from shore there is now no way to get to it from that location....today was it for the ice fishing for this season for me.

I have a 2 stroke 135 Merc Salt Water Optimax. I have stored it inside every year but this one because the place I stored it has been sold. A couple years ago I decided to put it away without winterizing it in the barn all covered up with custom canvas and a heavy duty mooring cover on it (including a motor cover). The next Spring when I went to use the boat for the first time it ran rough and seemed sluggish etc. I took it to the marina and had it checked and they found that the lower unit seal was shot and surmised that it was that water had gotten in from ice deposits during the winter. It cost me $600. This year I had it winterized and then the entire boat AND MOTOR including the prop hub shrink wrapped in very heavy duty plastic. I should also mention that the year I didn't have the winterization done I have a live well and I had to also replace the pump as well because of left over water in it during storage. I learned.... Incidentally, they don't need to "fog" your motor anymore they run a little heavier mixture with marine stabilizer directly into the engine by-passing your lines and tank etc. I also run a lot of marine triple strength stabilizer all year long in my tank (hoping to prevent moisture buildup...although I realize the jury is still out on whether it helps) I think the key to it might be making sure that the water is run out of the lower unit completely when the boat is put away. Unless the lower unit fluid is changed when the boat is stored then water in there might not be detected (you may already have a bad seal) and even covering the prop hub etc. may not be the answer come Spring and running the motor may cause MAJOR damage. Keeping the lower unit in the full downward position seems always a good idea as far as drainage. I know a lot of folks (including one of my fishing partners) don't believe in "winterizing" but based on the above I'm a firm believer

You "Southenders" would probably get all snagged up on bottom up here after all those years in the depths at the south end Its always a toss up where to start out from year to year isn't it? My boat is so used to the northern half of the lake that I don't even need an autopilot....it already knows its way...

I fished Honeoye yesterday and today and there was 7 1/4 inches in most places....and yes I did actually measure it The near shore areas are questionable in some spots and care needs to be taken there. Yesterday 30 large sunnys and gills, a keeper largemouth, and a small pickerel all jigging. Today, a half dozen good sized gills and sunfish and nothing else. A lot of "lookers" both days (especially today though) but they wouldn't hit despite many changes of jigs, bait, line diameters rods/reels...you name it. It may have related to barometric pressure or something of that nature....

Good going....nothing better to eat than them as far as I'm concerned ...except maybe Grouper from the ocean

You guys are sick buckaroos.......I jumped up from my chair and tried to hog the rod.....

Nice fish Zack ! Always fun getting them through the ice....Were you on C or H? hard to tell from the photo....using shiners or emeralds?