Sk8man

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If set up the way I suggested there is no need to splice in anything attach the boards directly to the braid backing. Any time you have line separations (with anything) it is a potential weak spot for potential failure for one thing. I wouldn't cut corners in terms of reducing the amount of backing you can always add weight to the copper to get more depth. Although it may not be as critical as on Lake O where the kings operate a big landlock, rainbow or brown can take out quite a bit of line so 300 ft and attaching to boards could really be pressing the limits with a good sized fish. I nearly got spooled a couple of years ago with 200 YARDS of braid on Lake O and the huge king got away with my whole 300 copper when he snapped the copper at the twist. Pretty spooky when you can see your metal spool while the fish is still taking line. When using boards whether big ones or inlines you'll often be adjusting the amount out so you want plenty on there and as few line separations as possible.Most of the time I let out just enough backing to get the copper down under. You may wish to go to a 55 Convector reel which may allow for more backing and still use the 45# wire. If you weren't using boards and were just running the copper down the chute you could probably get away with 150 yds.of Powerpro 30 lb braid and the 45 lb 300 copper.

The use of designated lengths of leadcores is for variable conditions and to be able to use them immediately as they are already set up to fish those depths. The drawback is that they take up space on a boat and may be considered by some to be redundant and expensive.Another method where expense or space is a consideration is to wind up designated lengths of copper with leaders and swivels etc.all set on old line spools marked accordingly and then attach them to a single rod/reel setup with backing on it as needed.

For the Finger Lakes fishing you don't necessarily need the heaviest duty or most expensive equipment for running coppers where you don't have to be concerned about Kings. I have a couple of Okuma Magda Pro 45Dx's on Okuma Classic Pro medium downrigger rods that I use exclusively for that purpose. One is a 300 ft copper with 200 yds of 30 lb braid backing, and the other a 250 ft copper with 200 yds. of braid backing. They will get down approximately 60 ft for the 300 and 50 or so for the 250. I can add snap on weights to each for greater depth if needed. For fish above that range I use dedicated leadcores !,3, 5, 7, and 10's. A 300 copper is about all you want to be reeling in, and time-wise about all if you intend to release fish. I use 32# copper on the Fingers as it fits most reels better than the 45# and the sink rate isn't drastically different. I generally run a 20 ft long Seaguar fluoro leader of 10-12 lb test. If running from inline boards don't clip to the copper itself only to the braid. Run a #8 Spro barrel swivel (will go through most rod eyes fine) at the connection between the braid and copper and use a haywire twist for the copper knot and Palomar knot from the barrel swivel to the leader. Use only a SOLID ring ball bearing swivel at the terminus (the split ring type can cut your line at the knot) and many knots can be used on the swivel snap I use either a clinch knot or a Palomar. Good luck with it Long Time

Great point and it certainly says something about your faith in the product if you are running a Smart Troll from it and emphasizes the need to keep an eye on things..

I've used 7 strand wire of every brand over the years (50 plus) (30-90 pound on rods) and for the most part it is oranges to oranges rather than apples to oranges in terms of differences. Differences in wire diameter (lb test) does have some peciliarities though. For example 30 and 45 lb test wire curly cues and kinks much more readily than 60 lb test while 60lb.holds original spool memory greater, doesn't nest in the sides of cheaper rollers but can more easily "jump off" the reel when tension is released. It also doesn't curly que as much. I limit its use to Seth Green rigs though as it is too stout for running dipsies as it doesn't cut through the water all that well without substantial weight at the business end. There are positives and negatives attached to most things in life and wire is no different. John and Rick have outlined the important considerations. If you don't buffer ANY 7 strand as suggested by use of a short mono or braid segment you will eventually accrue curly cues for a few inches or feet at the terminal end of the wire and sometimes kinks in the wire and slack is your worst enemy in this regard. Wire line requires care and frequent monitoring/checking regardless of brand or type. As is the case with boats there is no perfect one as there are always trade-offs with wire regardless of brand selected or price The diameter of the wire is important as Rick mentions and thinner cuts through the water better and achieves greater depth, but it also can be weaker in tensile strength depending on the use and circumstance. I seem to remember a chart from sometime back and I think AFW was listed toward the bottom in terms of tensile strength and this may have related to the thinner diameter. The seven strand wire is also much more abrasive on rod guides than 19 strand. While 7 strand when used with roller tips can with the cheaper roller tips run to the side of the wheel and hang up as well as cut through side plates of the cheaper roller tips using aluminum side plates but there is a more sensitive feel of the fish and less friction on the tip with rollers. Twilli tips are inexpensive and practical regarding tolerating different wire diameters but they may be harder on the wire over time e.g. 19 strand especially as the individual component wire strands are thinner. Rich does a lot more fishing and probably has much harder use of his equipment (wire) than a lot of casual sport fisherpersons with various people handling the rods so maybe the comment about AFW should be taken with a grain of salt but I thought that I'd address it before it comes up as food for thought.

In the first ad you mentioned pricing from $0.02 each

John made some great points