Don Supon

I'd go NW from Ollcott. The bite was good on Wed. in that area. 1/2 way to Wilson (.45 on W line) in 220-240 FOW. SS spoons and F/F rigs worked for me there 40-60 feet down. Kings, Cohos, and Browns. I'm returning there today as my starting point.

IMO the radio's purpose is for communication in a safety situation. Why would you chance it with a repaired antenna? Isn't your life (or your boat) worth the $100 it costs to replace the broken one?

I've used both on my boat. Either choice is a good one. My preference now is the roller guide Blue Diamond, but I use a 8'6 MH. I don't like the long, softer rods with a lot of bend. My boat is 18', so a 10'6 rod makes it very difficult to land a fish with the long, softer rod. Especially when fishing solo or with an inexperienced partner. A lightly set drag will give you the same thrill with the heavier pole as you get with the long soft pole. Boat length (fish fighting/landing space) is important when selecting rod length.

I own a Garmin BlueChart Data Card for my HumminBird. It covers a little of Erie and all of Lake O to Montreal. Really like it! Label markings are: 010-C0033-00 Lake Ontario to Montreal MUS019R Jul 08 Found it very effective by using the zoom-in after reaching the general area to fish. More zoom=greater detail of bottom contour. Has allowed me to follow bottom contours while targeting walleye on Erie (west end out of Buffalo).

PM sent to you

8'6 Blue Diamond (roller) or Heartland plus twilley tip fro Fish307.com

Tried that Wednesday AM. Made the run out to the NW corner and fished the top 40 FOW near the Canadian border. Used 50' leads off riggers with super slims, NKs, and Spindoctors. With very light W winds I thought it was going to be a killer day with a possible LOC trophy. Took a 10lb king during 1st setup while setting out lines. We fished till noon when the surface started kicking up and headed back to the Red Can area. That king was the only fish we took out there! Was hoping the early summer set-up had already begun, but that didn't seem to be. Wish I could guess where they are.

Changes are easy. Press up arrow to increase speed as needed. Rt or Lt arrow are held down until the bow points in the direction you want. Autopilot will then adjust steering to maintain that course. Things happen faster when you are moving faster. You only have to stay aware of your surroundings and adjust course as needed. In emergency situation, give full throttle and steer wherever you need to go. As already stated, practice first and get acclimated to your system before entering "the pack".

Use the mounting plate and save the holes into the transom. Run a fish-wire back starting from the under the dash following the path of dash wiring and out the access hole in sidewall for steering and electrical cables. Attach the transducer cable to the fish-wire end with tape and pull it to the dash. Can be done solo, but easier if you have assistance to feed the transducer cable. Avoid interference by NOT coiling any excess transducer cable. Hope this helps.

Effective to prevent slider swivel from cutting the knot tied on main-line lure. A fish on the slider slides down to the main lure during the fight and if that knot is cut you lose everything.

Been having problems with mine working/not working. Finally found that the connecting power plug coming from the rigger end was bad. Cannon has a recall on the power cords and replaced mine at no charge through an authorized repair center. Check it out if your Cannon rigger is acting eratic.

Once had a soldered wire to the battery clip in the probe come apart.

With a new fuel filter, the next check would be the plugs. Check them, as it sounds as if they are fouling while trolling. Run some carb cleaner and clean/lube the float valve. If these don't correct the problem, have a mechanic do a tune-up.

Remove 6 ft. of coating from end of cable (burn off) and attach to spool. Make sure the uncoated cable makes contact with the set screw located in hub. Easily done by loosening spool tension and making first few wraps by hand turning the spool. Contact the set screw as many times as possible, tighten the tension, then power wind the remainder of cable .

Fished all day Tuesday from Sturgeon with a partner. Moved a lot. A slow day for most out there. Kept a dozen 9-14 inchers and a 10 lb. channel cat. Hooked only 4 under 9 in. A beautiful weather day, dead flat water conditions. Saw a lot of fishermen returning the dinks.

I think Big Dave is correct. But sounds like you use 20 lb balls. If so, the 10A motor may not be able to handle that heavy a load. The rigger itself will be strong enough. Check with Cannon for their advice.

You want autopilot that controls your main motor, not kicker. Garmin and many other brands have what you want. Auto pilot for the main motor will then not be able to control rpm's on the kicker, only the main motor. You will need a method to control RPM's for the kicker to set the boat speed you want. That wouls require a seperate throttle control for the kicker or hand adjustment if you have a tiller handle outboard. Now you can see the dilemma. Autopilots are extremely effective for controlled trolling, but are specific to engine sizes (HP).

I use a Garmin TR1 Gold on my 18' Lund. A fantastic unit! Will troll at any slow speed if wind and waves don't overpower the motor rpm. If they do, press a button on the remote and incrementally increase it until you have the engine speed needed. You will be able to self install. You won't need the wireless remote, just use the included remote with an 18 ' cable. It uses it's own hydraulic pump. Price close to $3000. Bought mine from trollingsolutions.com for $2600 two years ago. Check internet for other prices. Unit can be programmed to do step turns (rt or lt), circles (rt or lt), clover leaf (rt or lt), MOB, zig zag, straight (forward or reverse), angled course course changes (predetermined), or simply press a button on the remote until pointed at target and boat will track in that direction until you change it again. Included in my unit was a throttle actuator and motor specific steering unit. Made for motors up to 15 hp, uses a different model for larger outboards.

Jimski2 I appreciate the information you provided. Now I just have to find out if the launch areas are open into the lake. Thanks again!

Lineman49, I'm in Niagara Falls and would like to try this perching! Will be out on Ontario this AM, but would like to speak with you and get some information about Sturgeon Point. Please contact me at [email protected] and give a phone number to contact you with. Hopeing to hear from you so can plan an excursion for Mon or Tues.

automobile polish might do it. buffing compound with caution.

The main line is what I use for salmon, 30 lb. To that is a barrel swivel and rod length of 10 lb. florocarbon leader. Worked for me last Monday, 6 for 8.

Fished Monday along Wilson to Olcott shoreline from noon to 5 PM. Water was murky, but not muddy. Temps 35.5 to 36.5, found nothing warmer. Boated 6 of 8, all small browns, on stickbaits. Black/silver best color.

As stated already, this is a stealth presentation. The suggestions are good. Not stated is the importance of duplicating the drop-back leads for all lines on one side of boat. Keep them identical in length so hooked fish pass behind any inside lines you may have out at the time. Linecounter reels make this easy. When you hook a fish, let him swing in behind the boat to clear the other lines before you fight it in. A good set-up will have your baits in a V pattern. Automatic when using big boards and same leads; keep the same pattern for in-lines.

Either choice Mitch. I 2nd the auto-pilot option, 24 V. will give longer run time than 12 V.