Don Supon

Thanks for the encouragement! Only posted my experience with this equipment because of the original question looking for information about this system. I still like the potential of this equipment and think it could be extremely helpful. My first malfunction occurred the first time I used it during an orientation excursion in the spring. It happened sporadically after that, each instance resulting in lost trips while I waited for replacements. Cannon and Huminbird both were very cooperative and helpful. But each malfunction resulted in weeks of interruption while the problems were checked out and units were shipped back and forth under warranty. Lost equipment/tackle and shipping charges were at my expense, but both stood behing their product and replaced malfunctioning units/parts when appropriate. I'm eagerly awaiting spring to see if the new cannonlink can coordinate with the Mag 20s properly. If it does, I'll be very happy! Whatever happens, I will post the results here in the spring for all interested parties.

I tried to use two Mag 20's with a cannonlink to a HB 778c last season and kept having malfunctions. The cannonlink info did not match the HB info and resulted in equipment loss on several occasions. My season had to end early Sept. and HB replaced the cannonlink. I'll find out in springtime if I just had a faulty cannonlink, as that will be my first opportunity to test it out. Bottom Track didn't function properly- HB depth, downrigger view depth of ball, and downrigger view setting depth icon all showed different numbers. I finally stopped fishing when I lost another weight and tackle with the screen showing the ball tracking 3 ft above bottom, flat bottom, and a hang-up resulting in separation. The downrigger view icon showed the ball depth set at 1/2 distance to bottom while the screen view showed the ball tracking 3 ft above bottom. Faulty electronic information sharing or stupid operator? Hoping for better results in the spring.

Ordered on Friday and received on Wednesday. They all look good! Go Irish is the one that I am most intriged with and I am drooling to give it a good workout.

They look good to me and I'm biting. Order placed.

Mine stopped working this season and Moor found the problem to be in the wiring inside the probe to the battery. Moor tested every component of my system for me (antenna, antenna cable, power cable, probe, probe battery, display unit) on the bench. While testing the probe for signal, one of the 2 leads to the battery clip came free. This wiring was replaced and the system has worked fine since. Only charge was for the new wiring (about $10). Bench test showed the antenna capable of getting reading from distance of almost 2 inches away from cable. Moor is a very consumer friendly business. Or you can wait for the Feb. show and get a great price as Tim suggested. That's where I bought mine 3 years ago. If you are located near Buffalo, take all the components to them for diagnosis. You'll be pleased with results and cost.

I own the 60 lb. and it measures in pound increments. Is quite accurate. I have a 60 lb Rapalla grip hanging in my shed that also gives good weight readings. Doen't use it because the jaw/grips opening distance, although it holds a fish well when applied, is extremely hard to get over a big fish's jaw. Went to the BOGA GRIP with bigger jaw opening for quicker weighing of fish that might be released. Make me an offer on the Rapalla and it could be yours.

The Mariner 8900 antenna has been good for my 18 footer. A friend has the 8700 and finds it satisfactory. As for the radio, try to get one that has microphone channel buttons. My feeling is that this equipment is a luxury tool when used to chit-chat, but a required safety item when in danger. Do you really want to "go cheap" for the items that might save your life and/or boat? Buy high end for this equipment, save a buck somewhere else.

Tried two at once yesterday (of 4 possible) and both took a bow. Fishing the Bar for Kings today and will be running all 4 lines with one. Seems to work OK and thanks for the help.

Just had mine at Moore for similiar problem. The culprit was in the wiring to the battery clip. Seems one lead inside the probe (of two connecting the battery to circuit board) was loose; good readings-wacky-no readings-etc. Had entire unit checked out at Moore and each component of unit checked OK on bench. Reinstalled and went fishing. Dropped to 45 ft for reading-A OK. Dropped further to 90 and lost all readings! Removed from boat and went back to Moore. This time while checking probe (which wasn't working) one battery clip lead was disconnected and fished out of probe depths.. A new clip was wired to circuit board and unit has worked flawlessly since. Going back out today for third use and have not had a problem.

thanks for the advice!

Have been successful at times with these attractors. I typically run only one at a time (starboard) and it is the deepest lure in the set-up. I use a maximum of four rods (18 ft. boat). Want to know if this is the best presentation and could more than one be used at a time ( for example- side dipsey with a spin doctor or two riggers running different depths). Are they productive/effective for you if they have other lures running deeper than they are?

I use 30 lb. PP in the spring until the fleas start heavy. Then I switch to 30 lb. FleaFlicker for the rest of the year. Use a florocarbon leader 15/20 lb.) to the lure off either set-up. Have also used lighter leaders very early in spring.

Ordered 2 Scotty Power Grip stackers to try out since the BigJon stackers don't seem to be available.

Jettison stacker releases, made by BigJon, may have been discontinued. Does anyone know a source or have some extras they would part with? Thanks in advance.

Natures Way Taxidermy 2285 Lockport Road, Sanborn, New York 14132 716-731-4215 www.natureswaytaxidermy.com Bill Joseph did the 40lb. king taken last fall by someone not in the derby. He does excellent work and you will be pleased with the result!

Spring fishing in your area is typically the Port Dalhousie area for trout and salmon and Welland for lake trout. Salmon are known to forage near Welland also. You will be limited on Lake Ontario by the boat size, you'll have to wait for calm water days. Look ahead for light winds from the North, NW, and NE. West wind of 15 mph or less should work out. South, SW, and SE allow for higher wind speeds. East winds- stay home, the fishing is terrible. Fish the bottom for lakers (don't be afraid to let the ball hit a little) and try to stay s-l-o-w (1.5 mph is a good starting point). Kings will work at 2-3.5 mph, while trout like 2-2.5 mph. Lake trout like small spoons and kwik fish lures, while trout and salmon typically hit throughout the water column on all sizes of spoons, trolled with or without attractors such as spin doctors or flashers. Both are effective pulling salmon flies, but I've never tried a Spin Doctor with a spoon. There are many posts on this site that reveal color selection for spoons. Salmon like glo, black/purple, green. Orange and red are good for steelhead and coho. Chartreuse and green are good for lake trout. As spring turns to summer the fish generally move farther from shore, which will make it harder for you to chase them in your boat size. You'll have to get out into 100 feet depths (100-300) to find them. Be safe! In fall salmon move in close again, so look at Welland and Port Dalhousie again. The Niagara River is a major fish attractor year round, but a longer drive for you. Hope this helps you get started. With time and experience, success goes up. Hope you can get the kids hooked on fishing!

Thanks for the link. Order placed. Have been impressed with the promotions I've seen before, so will give them a through try this spring.

Thanks for the information guys. Will try to apply your help.

Never tried to fish with meat before, but want to use whole smelt this year to see what happens. Looking for help selecting appropriate brand(s) and size rigs for 4-8 in. smelt, how to rig properly, trolling speed, effectiveness. Know these are a lot of questions, but reading posts and manufacturers sites has confused me a lot. Do whole baits require different set-ups from cut bait? Do I want the bait to roll constantly or flip like an uncentered cam wheel? Are there meat heads that produce the proper action without fine tuning the bait with hook placement? Are treble hooks better than single hooks? Does anyone pull whole smelt as bait, if so, how effective is it? Thanks for your help with these questions. Don

Sounds like you assembled them incorrectly. Could you remove the connecting rod from both parts and reassemble with the two boards in reversed position?

Forgotten is the NY requirement that all boaters must be WEARING a proper PFD whenever underway in NY waters from Nov 1 to April 1. Underway means the boat is moving; anchored or tied off do not require PFDs. This new law has not been enforced so far.

Email sent .

Rapallas, smithwick rattlin rogues. Size 9&11 floating. Rapalla cold steel & beeeding copper good last spring. Goby a new color I'll be trying this year. Orange belly works best for me. Have fun!

Are any of the docks in place at the North end to launch with?

Use them a lot. Set one line at ball release first. Lower weight desired distance with rod in free spool with clicker on(10-15FT), then attach stacker release to cable. Do this by pinching one clip to cable, attach metal snap to cable below first clip, let out desired line from second rod, attach second line to other clip on stacker, set this rod to free spool and clicker, then lower ball to desired fishing depth with slight thumb pressure on each rod to prevent over-run. At desired fishing depth engage both fishing reels and adjust line for desired rod tension. All of this is done while boat is moving slowly, as this prevents lines fron tangling. With both rods set up you can increase speed to fishing speed. You now have two lures running off one rigger at your desired distance apart (10-15 FT). Lines won't tangle as long as you keep the boat moving. When raising ball to surface, the stacker release should disengage from cable when clip hits downrigger pulley (or you release it yourself) and the matal snap slides down the cable to the ball, keeping the release attached. Cheaters (sliders) are different. This allows two lures to run from one rod, but you can't control the depth of the cheater as accurately. We tie a swivel to each end of 4-5 FT mono material. Lure on one end and other end around main fishing line. Set and lower rod to desired depth leaving a bend in fishing line from rod to ball. Attach slider set-up to fishing line by placing swivel of cheater around fishing line. When tossed into the water, this lure will slide down the main line until it reaches the apex of the curved fishing line. If a fish takes this lure, it will release the bottom clip and the swivel slides down to the bottom lure as if you were fighting the fish from there. Because of the slack line involved in this set-up, you have to reel in quickly until you feel the fish if this rod goes off. Don't try to run two cheaters from one line or a cheater on each of two rods on the same downrigger or they will likely tangle. Both are effective methods.