Don Supon

Ran a 135 and 9.9 from same battery and never had a problem in 5 years. Added a 2nd battery to run the 9.9 when autopilot was added to the mix to seperate from main starter battery because I was concerned the 9.9 alternator might not recharge enough to keep up with the autopilot drain throughout an 8-10 hour troll at med to low rpm's. Overkill probably, but didn't want to experience returning to launch with the kicker only, because I couldn't restart the 135.

We are talking shoreline fishing. These lures track about 3-5 ft. down by themselves (no weight). They usually get placed into water where the lure nicks the bottom occasionally, and usually are run off planer boards (inline or big boards) to keep them away from boat spooked fish. Leads from board to lure typically start around 50 Ft. Some don't have boards and just longline behind the boat, with leads that start at 100 ft. and can go much longer. Out deep on riggers, never had any luck and stopped trying. It should work, but didn't for me. Always tried them "clean".

Many Cohos have had a green colored back from my experience. 18-24 in. fish

Underwater currents will affect rigger weights no matter which kind. Torpedoes don't twist, but they will swing to the side just like any other when current is pushing against them from the side. To check for current causing this, turn the boat 90 degrees and see if they track straighter behind. If that solves the tracking swing you'll know there is a strong current there. You could still return to previous direction, just know that your cannonball is a little higher than what the counter tells you. The space between cannonballs will still be the same, just not on each side of the boat. Severe swinging might cause a problem of downrigger cable getting wraped in prop if you are using a kicker motor (because of short boom length) so be cautious.

Stacking or sliders on the riggers is going to cause you problems. Don't. Just run them clean if they are part of the set. Not sure, but suspect that the rigger is going to have to come up before landing a fish off the dipseys.

Look for a vynal graphics shop near you.

Rapallas, Smithwick Rattlin Rogues are my favorites but there are many others. A stickbait is a minnow immitation lure. Size 7-11, Original or Jointed, best colors have some orange mixed in but traditional black or gold work well.

Matthew Thanks for the tip about lead and torpedo diver. I've been following the postings about the smarttroll and it is under consideration for me. Even posted a question about it. I have reservations though, because the price has been ignored whenever requested in posts. The product will be presented to LOTSA at our meeting this Thursday. Hopefully the price will be presented there and I can make a decision.

The question seems to have taken on several implications. A kicker is typically used to troll at slow speeds, which most big engines can't do well, very long, or gas efficiently. It is also thought of as a safety precaution if the big motor fails. I thoughts are that the kicker could be used in emergency situations to get you back to shore in good water conditions, it will just take a long time. If you get caught in a storm far from shore, you have a BIG problem! You have to be aware of approaching weather constantly, storms don't magically appear, and make the determination to head in well in advance of it or maybe wait to go out on another day. If you screwed up, and then the big motor quits on top of that, o-boy. The safest option, I think, would be to just keep the bow going into the waves and ride it out with whatever motor is available. If the waves take you toward shore, a small kicker could probably allow you to "ride a wave" to get in. Even if the big motor still works, that will probably be your best option anyways. You have a smaller boat for Lake O or Erie (especially). Attempting to run over large waves in a small boat would be foolhearty. So what I've been implying is that the kicker should not be counted on for you to beat a storm back to shore. It's function is economics and ability to go slow for extended periods. Therefore a 6-8 HP should be all you need (don't forget to run it hard for a while at the end of trolling after pulling rods). Four stroke is much quieter than two, but costs a lot more. Two trips out with a 6 HP one-banger and I was back to the dealer for a trade in because of the noise, vibration, and fumes. Speed-wise it was adequate. Got an 8Hp next for my 18' Lund and was pleased, but when I wanted to get power trim for it I had to upgrade to a (9.9). Be safe-not foolish.

38-39. low 40's better.

My theory is that the big specimens stay deep as long as they can find feed there. This spring I'm going to give it a shot. Purchased 2 sets of dive bombs, 8 oz +16 os. Plan is to run 5 colors of leadcore with each weight. TX 44 boards are the intended planers, but I'll have to determine if they are able to handle that much drag. Want to target 100' plus and this way I might be able to get a wide and deep spread when used along with riggers. It will get tested out as soon as spring trolling starts. Plan is to run out to 200 FOW or so and set it up without lures to see if the boards can pull it. And if they can, then I'll need to determine how deep they run. I'll post the results when I get the answers. Just want to give them something they are not used to that far down.

I plan on running 2 sets this season with a deeper diver and dipsey on each side. Deeper divers will get more depth than dipseys and I expect to be able to get a better vertical presentation in the spread.

Thanks guys! Just ordered 2 sets of Dive Bombers, think they will do what I want them to. I like how they attach to the line without damage and should be able to remove them from backing while fighting a fish.

Precision Trolling tables tell me 45# copper of 300' will give me a depth of 48 ft. at 2.0 mph. Need to know precisely what that means. When run with side planers and I connect the board to the beginning of the backing, will the lure be at 48'? Can I get more depth by increasing the length of backing (say 50' or 100')? Any difference for lead core? Lead core 27# at 2.0 mph charts for 5 colors to be 33' down. Could I reach 100' by giving more backing to the mix? The 100'+ depths I wish to reach with either method appear to require w-a-y too much copper or lead core plus backing for reels to handle (let alone the fisherman). Are there REMOVEABLE weights available anywhere, ones I could remove from an inline placement (such as the Church TX44's) while fighting a fish? My thinking is to add lead weight to the backing start, and let the weight of the copper/leadcore take it further down to desired depths. What do you guys think? Anyone doing something like this? Feel free to PM me if you don't wish to "go public". Thanks, Don

After several broken fly leaders, I changed all to 50 lb test. I recently purchased a fly vise from Cabellas (with a base extra) and used it yesterday for the first time. Sure makes the tying easy. Flys I bought pre-rigged that worked for me have beed duplicated and I'm ready for 2013.

Besides the price, what is the operating frequency? Need to know for possible interference from onboard FF and other electrical equipment.

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer for a replacement? Hate to see you have to buy a whole new unit for this reason. Something must have caused the problem: maybe excessive vibration over time, or placement where back of speaker is being bumped or hit by passing passengers. Make sure you deal with this if you get a replacement part/repair it. Could reinforcing the rim by gluing the cracks together and then adding washers to the screws work? Sounds like the plastic part is like a cup to hold the speaker, with a rim to hold it in place. If so and you go the glue process, if the cup is cracked also, make sure to glue it back together and then put a hose clamp around it for strength.

P M sent

My opinion stands. I feel all species should be remembered and THAT will promote our lake the best. I'll be out there with you in all three.

I feel that the Derby should name the biggest FISH as champion, whatever species it is. Mr. Chilson, by decree, is making the salmon top dog in the fall. The Lake Ontario fishery, in whole, should be the focus of having this tournament. Promoting only salmon is foolish and shortsighted. Initially it was a good idea, but today it is not. Salmon publicity for this state originated the tournament concept as a means to attract visitors who would spend money here. All the press about the salmon's fighting prowess was a good enticer to get fishing here noticed. Over time, it has been proven that other species are present, and are equally helpful in attracting visitors to our state. The salmon is most likely to be the biggest fish caught, but, a monster of another species would continue to help draw fishermen and highlight what is actually available here. Salmon-only promotion is an elitist attitude. I don' "get" why anyone would want to do this when enticing people to come to our state is the main goal. Locals already have an advandage of familarity, are non-natives only for providing locals with prizes? Why limit numbers of potential participants? All fishermen believe they can get lucky once, and will want the glory(and prize money)when they do. Limit the pool to only highly experienced fishermen and watch the tournament decay and decline. Limited number of prizes=limited participation. Doubling the numbers of salmon winners counterweighs the loss of lake trout winners, but what could the reason be to do this? Doesn't matter to me. Fish or don't, your choice. Another rule that disturbs me is the one that limits winners to one major prize. My thinking is that a good fisherman, who is really good, could place himself as leader in more than one species. That limiting is part of the rules to attempt to give more fishermen their moment of fame and is accepted. It promotes maximum participation! Shouldn't the Fall Derby do the same?