lakebound88

I don't know why you tried timing it again. The knock is a bearing issue. There is no avoiding it. Look at your old cam. The motor had issues. Still does. The more you run it the worse it's gonna get.. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

https://youtu.be/fD-xSG3jfvw Comparison... Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

These are just examples. These can't be seen without removing the pan and removing the rod caps or main caps. How old is your machine? If she's a runner I wouldn't over think it. Most engines have crankcase pressure of some sort, but there is excessive amounts that can raise concern. Don't over this this on your other machine. We're talking boats here. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

For magnetic metals yes but bearings are not metalic, they are considered tin, or babbitt I beleive. You won't be able to extract these, your filter does this, however extracting it still will not fix your problem. I will post photos of a spun bearing for you. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Also, your fouling plugs, your choke is stuck on. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Just so you know, continuing to run it with the bad bearings, you are liable, hang on, you WILL blow the motor and seize it. You will either throw a rod out the pan or the side of the block then you will really be out money. Changing your plugs wouldn't stop the exhaust out the breather. Just a coincidence IMHO. You can play with all this other stuff all ya want. But, when a bearing is bad and the motors knocking, it means there is metal on metal or no lubrication to that particles point of a moving part. If you have spun a bearing, you are just destroying the motor even further, pumping that metal through every other bearing in the motor, slowly building an etch a sketch picture on all bearings until it goes silent. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I'm willing to bet the blow by and the knock are located on the same cyclinders 2 and 3. That had the head gasket problem. Water and bearings is a no go. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Carbs adjusted at idle Only adjust the idle screws. But that's not why you're smoking. You're burning oil and blow hy, that's why your breather on the valve cover has so much exhaust gas coming out of it. Compression means nothing I this case, especially with the knock. A true leak down test per cylinder should be done. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Would you be willing to ship all the uglys? Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

No problem. You'll get it one way or another. I can tell you're a pretty determined individual. Good trait. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Pap, the old cam is pretty scored, mainly where the two lobes were wore down. The fuel pump wore a nice groove in the came lobe here as well. There is heavy pitting on the cam, in machined areas that shouldn't be there. If I was to install a new cam, I would definitely do bearings. The knock sounds low, more like a rod bearing... really solid knock at that. It will run, but the idle just can't get low enough, the motors really struggling. It could be a wrist pin, but the only way to tell is to pull that pan off and check.. he did mention a bad head gasket between two and three cyclinders. I'm thinking this could be where the bad bearing is located. Keep us posted mike. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

When you out in the new hydraulic lifters, did you prefill them, and adjust the valves or just install, adjust and now have problems running. Valves can be way too tight if this is the case. We'll talk more. Sent from my SM-G900V using Lake Ontario United mobile app