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Everything posted by Trolling82
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Hit one pike last year in the back of the head flatlining of a board. Thought I had a horse on the other end of the line!
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Opening day I'm heading to Cohocton. I don't have the patience for that elbow to elbow crap. Give it a few days and I'll come back with my 5 weight fly rod and play with the suckers!
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http://www.thehulltruth.com/shipyard-is ... e-oil.html
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Ok, got the kicker mounted today! Now to attach the shift/throttle control. It's a 703. Has a set of wires coming out of it. Searched around the internet with little luck. The wires are as follows: 1 set: Black Green 2nd set: Black Yellow Blue From what I have found, Black - Ground Green - Tach signal Yellow - Ignition on (12V) Blue - Instrument lights; choke; choke circuit; Ground potential oil transfer; High speed Charge Coil I am not hooking up a tach so can I just hook up the yellow wire to the fuse panel 12V and the blacks to ground? Don't know if the blue is some special purpose wire that will screw things up if I don't hook it somewhere.... Thanks!
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It is LTR. Just got mine registered a few days ago. Went to the DMV and that's what they wrote in. I assume it stands for "Light Trailer" as opposed to a heavy trailer being a semi or something.
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It's Great to live in the Finger Lakes!!
Trolling82 replied to holy mackerel's topic in Finger Lakes Discussion
Got any whiskey? -
Thanks Shade. Gotta love all the variables. I don't regret getting the book and the information there is going to be a huge help since this is the first year I'll be running wire divers. I just have to get out there and practice! Just trying to get as much information as I can before I go and leave a diver, doctor, and fly on the bottom of the lake!
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How did you test your spark and how strong was it? Some times, you will see spark when testing it out of the engine but when it's under compression it won't spark. The best way to tell if this is the case is try to start the engine for a bit. Then take a couple plugs out. If they are wet, it is not sparking under compression. If they are dry then you are getting spark. If all the plugs are wet, it is somewhere else in your electrical system. Maybe the distributor or a coil or something. That gets past my realm of expertise. If Lakebound were around he could help you out more as he is a mechanic but he won't be back till Thursday.
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small, small boat and motor.
Trolling82 replied to lakebound88's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
I can attest that little tank can handle 2-3 foot swells in Seneca in February! Just don't wear sneakers and go with the waves! -
I would say over. It came with the boat I bought (used) but was not mounted on the outdrive. Don't know if they got one and never got out on the water or what. I'll check tomorrow morning to see what it says and get back.
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That's the one I have. Covers all size dipsys, jet divers, walker divers, and slide divers on 30lb mono/braid/wire. And a short blurb on copper and leadcore. Does not take into account if you are running any kind of a flasher or anything.
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I thought you would need a lot more line out to get down to 96'. I think they got copper backwards. Saying 100' down at 27' back. Think it's the other way around. 100' back 27' down. All in all it is pretty informative. Wish it had more info though. Like what about a doctor/fly on a mag wire diver... Definitely a good book to have but I hope they come out with another that covers a lot more areas.
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It should be fine by the time you pull your boat out. Just backing it down first thing in the morning might be hairy which is why sand might be handy. It is a really nice launch though. Right at the end of the lake. The concrete is grooved to help with traction. If you come down 14, probably the easiest way to describe how to get there is just take a left at the first light as you come into Watkins onto 414, left at the next light, and just go straight. Put you right at the dock. Coming down 414, After you go past the bridge and wal mart in watkins, take a right at the next light and go straight. What are you pulling your boat with?
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Just be careful on that launch, the concrete there can get pretty icy. Make sure you bring some sand with you just in case. Check it out before you back down in there.
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So the girlfriend had to go down to Binghampton to the Christmas Tree Shop down there. Being the incredibly fantastic boyfriend I am, I gave in and allowed her to drag me down there. At first I was quite depressed as I expected an evening of shopping for stuff I have absolutely no interest in. As we got close to the store, my mood was suddenly improved as I noticed a Gander Mountain just next door! It was like a beacon of light in a dull gray landscape! So, after an hour or so of painful shopping at the Christmas Tree Shop, I managed to get over to Gander! There I happened across the "trolling bible" I've heard about so much. Looking over it today though, I am quite dissapointed. I think I may be reading it wrong. For instance, for a mag dipsy, 0 setting, on wire, it says i will be 96ft down and 200 ft back from the boat. Doesn't say anything about how much line is out though. And it's the same for everything. Is there something I'm missing????
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Not a possibility at this point. Live way too far out in the sticks. No cable available. Hate satellite. So no internet at home. At work is another matter! Can you tell I work real hard?! I can send pics via cell phone. Looks just like the "Happy Troller". Like new. I don't think it even has a scratch. Nick (LB88) can vouch for this!
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Nick, out of the goodness of my heart, I'll let you take a picture of my boat to put on the side of yours. Then it will look like a fishing boat!!
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One of those trolling plates that mounts to the cavitation plate and swings down behind prop to slow boat down. Make me an offer.
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Call it piece of mind. I like to reinforce everything like fort knox. It's an older boat (82) and I'll be doing a lot of trailering with it. I'd rather over do it and not have to worry about anything than not do enough and have uh ohs.
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Big Easy, Thanks for the info and I'll definitely be taking you up on your offer. I know a couple garages that are heated I might be able to use but I have to check and make sure the boat will fit in them! Otherwise, expect a pm when it gets warm!
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1. Seasquirrel.... Can you get me that chic's number in that video? 2. Unfortunately I do not have electric in the pole barn so I'm just going to paint it. I thought it would be awfully nice looking and strong to fiberglass it, but I was probably going over-board. I got some rustoleum oil based paint. (local marine recommended). Just hope it sticks! If the paint starts proving to be a problem later on, then I will pick a warm month and fiberglass it! 3. Trap Jaw, it's your classic plywood sandwiched with fiberglass transom. (full transom). About midpoint of where I am mounting the bracket there is a horizontal piece about 4" long going across the inside of the transom so that will help strength as well as the 2 pieces of pt plywood I will be putting above and below the stabilizer. 4. Nick, I'll try to get it I'll finished by the time you get back in town. We got to get your rocket launcher on. And with all the work I've yet to do on Sean's boat, I better get moving!
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Are they still planning on making people get new plates? I thought it was the april time frame they were going to do it. If this is the case, if you can avoid needing your registration until then, you might not have to pay twice....
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Decided to just paint it....
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Figures... Maybe I can find a place to do it. Have a couple options but not sure if their doors are tall enough to get the boat in. Any other tips would be great....
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Ok, tried my first fiberglass project today.... I think the only thing I did right was put gloves on! Anyway, I am putting a piece of pt plywood on the outside of the transom to help reinforce/protect the hull where I am putting the kicker on. I am also putting it on the inside of the transom. The kicker bracket mounting section is about 8" x 8.5". I cut a piece of plywood 10" x 10.5" with a 45 degree bevel. I sanded the area on the transom plus 3" extra around it. I applied a generous amount of silicone to the back off the plywood and screwed it onto the transom. Now to fiberglass! Got me some resin, hardener, and mat at the local Lowes. Mixed the resin and hardener according to directions on the container. Wiped it on the plywood and surrounding hull. Put a piece of mat on. Started to apply more resin mix..... Wait, all the fiberglass fibers are bunching up as I brush the resin mix on instead of staying flat and in place. Ok, spread it back around kinda nice like. Do a couple more layers. Why do I only have 1" of lap on top edge of the plywood? I know I had at least 2" when I put the first layer on.... Oh, all the resin and mat is slowly sliding down the transom! Angrily pull the whole mess off and throw it in a corner. Start over. Put just one layer of mat on and very carefully apply resin mix to try and keep fibers from bunching up all over. Walk away.... Come back a few hours later and the bottom section has pulled away from the transom and is just hanging there. Gingerly get it back in place and walk away. Going to check it in the morning but I have a good guess what I'm going to find.... What am I doing wrong? Is it too cold out to fiberglass? I'm working in a non-heated pole barn.