buckboardjr

Yea What Legacy said! That thin power pro would probably cut through the eyeof the copper!

WTG Cous X 4 and Hound.

Go get um Nick & Theresa! I got a feeling you're gonna get into them!!

Nice pic Len.. WTG. Thanks for sharing!

Glad your on the road to recovery.

That 42nd SD was hot on our diver last year as well.

Wrongrod = Color coded rod slicks!!! He he he

Sliders are tough. I'm usually 1 for 4 on those. Sounds like 200 coppers might be hot right now. Good luck you two! Thanx 4 sharing!

Nice job fellas! Nice lookin browns!

Way to stick with it Bad habit! You may have uncoverd something that may help others.

Let the screaming begin!!! Drags that is. Good luck out there Nick and wife!

Has anyone seen any deals on prop wash. I heard some guys run thier lures right in the stuff and catch fish.

I built a pair 10 years ago to mimic a leading type. There were some interesting things to take into concideration. To help run true and pull hard and not dive in heavy seas there are some things you can do. 1. Weight the boards on the bottem. I routered out a groove and embedded stick on wheel weight material 2. This weight should be bias toward the trailing edge of the boards. This helps them to not dive 3. Rather than running the boards parellal, add Toe in to your boards just like a car 4. Add camber to your boards, Think of how they are going to pull from an elevated mast and tweak them for more bite. These have worked great for me to include pulling a 400, and a 500 copper last year. Now everything can be improved. this last year I left mine in the live well. The submerged one no longer floated. Man did that one pull hard and out this spring but it would sink on an inside turn. My next set are going to be 3ft long and 11in tall . Weighted heavilly to put as much board "Keel" in the water as possible. That appears to be the ticket to me. My old ones are 24in long. These were made of pine wraped with hobbie weight fiberglass.

Your welcome Len and to give credit where credit is do, we, "Roadhog & Buckboardjr", were taught 95% of that program last year by a guy who is well known on this forum named Ray K. He actually stopped in our town of residence and took us down to Newburgh.Real glad it worked out for you Len. It's these success storys that makes me so happy that this forum exists and that's what drives me to want to share my experiences with others. WTG Len

Nice job fellas! Do ya's know of anyone that runs a blood worn program up near Kingston? How is the fishing in front of Norrie State Park?

All the magnums I bought last year were built poorly in the release area. Erabbit said many others got them bad as well and people were massaging the detent with a small jewelers file to get it to work properly. Mine took alot of massaging. Also the brazed or soldered metal double looper item that actually trips was all goobered up with extra solder. I got them to work but then switched to Walker 127s. The workmanship was better and they killed the mag on reaching depth.

WTG

WTG L& M Hank!!!

WTG Tony. Very Very Nice!

I fished for 12 years without one and spent hundreds into the thousands on other things. In the end I found The probe to be my biggest bang for the buck that put fish in the boat. I would rather have a $50 sonar that told be depth and a good probe rather than a $600 sonar and no probe. My 2 cents. There are lots of tricks that have been pointed out in this thread that I didn't know about back whan I didn't have a probe!

Nice!

Thanks Fellas just picked it up for $700. Electric start Long shaft. I verified idle voltage and slightly above idle. Went right up to 13.5V. Will make a nice upgrade to mine.

Been using them since 99. Have tried others including scottys. I think they are more forgiving in regards to not havng false releases when thumbing the spool on deployment or on the outside rods in a speeded up turn. The way they are built gives you less mechanical advantage on the release which allows for agressive crank downs and gives the fish more mechanical advantage. My 2 cents. I hate false releases below 100ft and that is when you are really trying to minimize your bow in the line.

I run a mast up front but can't imagine using those frontrod holders in the act of trolling. I figured they were just for storing rods not in service.

Was wondering if anyone has this year class kicker on thier boat in electic start and if you do, does it charge your batterys while trolling? I have an 80s 7.5hp with a very simple rectifier set up that doesn't put out enough "Volts at idle and slightly above to charge the batts. At WOT it puts out 16.5. I have a line on the one above but want to make sure it will charge at idle or trolling speeds. I do know the most modern ones in electric start have quite a stator and reg on them.