buckboardjr

This one would have been nice on a bed of linguini smothered in marinera sauce. mmm When the boy here w the first one fall of a fish into the boat you should have heard him. Awww Aww thiers a snake in the boat.

I agree with Raaven. Consistency is king here. Weather it is to match two divers for the hot depth or for seperation and drop back during planerboard fishing.

Cool. I'll start carrying some salt on the boat to treat them live then bring them back to camp and roast them on a wood fire. CAN'T WAIT!!!

All of my Atomik flys I have ran have only had rattles in them and kicked butt, but I just ordered some with chips to try. They still sell the rattle ones so people must still do business with them. It will be interesting to run them against each other and see. I have a funny story about putting flys up against each other. I had a wht/ grn dot SD with a hammer fly firing consistently so I put a brand new set up down and ran it and it wouldn't fire. Leads and leaders the same. I noticed the one that was firing was all wadded and narled up from fighting fish. So I brought the new set up in and narled and wadded it all up. Bam bam bam it started firing. The next year the crinkle hammer fly came out and in the water it looks like a reg hammer that has been chewed up a bit. That green crinkle hammer fires nice behind a bull frog pro E.Paddle.

Tcon, That's been my hot SD Combo as well. One I don't here to much on that was hot for us was 42SD with Auqua Tnans off divers. That was constent out deep 500-600ft.

I forgot about being able to release them with mono. I ran mono before braid and I reeled in quite a few in unreleased cause they wouldn't release. I have also ran slide divers. I had 75ft of mono with the slide diver on it, then 30lb fireline. I wonder if anyone ties mono to wire and uses slide divers with long leads?

I agree with Mortigan and the reason they are running those is for thier thinness to get down deeper. It would make perfect sence that 80lb braid which is the dia. of 30lb. mono would be as flealess as the 30lb mono. In that case ya might as well run 30lb mono at a cheaper price. They aren't running braid and wire for tensil strength. They are runnig it to get as deep as they can with dipseys.

Unlike Homes and Aircraft, boats and autos don't generally protect thier large amp draw wires such as your heavy possitve battery cable to your starter. In homes that would be your 200 amp breaker at the top. Aircraft use monster current limiters because they just can't risk a moster feeder wire to rub to ground and have a major short. With that said you should verify the routing of your positive battery cable from the battery to the starter to ensure it hasn't chaffed to ground and also that it's connections are corrosion free, tight, and clean. Most likely they have not protected the med. lg charge wire coming off your alternator either. You need to verify along it's length as well that it hasn't chaffed or has poor connections. It would take something capable of carrying some serious amps to melt that neg cable and the unprotected pos feeder side has the ability. When batterys are located a far distance from the starter a very safe mod to do is mount a ford solinoid next to the battery and use that to send the heavy current to the starter on a momentary basis during start only. That way you don't have a 2 Ought feeder wire hot all the time. With this mod you also install a current limiter on the charge wire and med feeder wire to your ditribution fuse block. If you don't find anything during this inspection I'd chalk it up against either your old batt shorted or alternator. Hope this makes sence and helps.

I'm partial to ziplock bags and plastic treble bonnets. Now with Markbellino's straw trick I will now curl the fly leader into thestraw, bonnet the treble and put it in a ziplock.

I have 2 of them that I converted to mag10 switches and manual counter. Still love them as thay have cast alumin housings and 5ft stainess booms. $75 converted 2 of them. When the keypad fails and you have to hand line them in is a good time to convert to manual switches.

We too just spooled some 47diawas with 30lb Malin 1000ft. 1000ft fit pefect.Mabe Jeff runs 20llb hence he can fit more on. I would be leary of backing wire with mono. I would "Think" that the wire would be hard on the mono and abraid/fracture/weeken it. Though I said "think" I am all for pushng the envelope on what works, works, and getting by. I saved my 30lb. fire line to back my wire up with after a few "mistakes" and lost wire. I'd rather run 700ft of wire with backing than 700ft with nothing.

You might want to try a poultice. They use them to draw stains out of pourous surfaces such as granite and marble. You may have to make your own based on the composition of the stain, which is graphite. It is possible hot wax might do it.

I've got a 1964 just like it. They are built. I use mine all winter even below freezing. Nice price!

So what was the real fix to get it to run cool at idle?

I just found this animation of the nail knot. Cool animation, cool knot. I wonder if that would be a good knot for backer to copper or copper to leader? I'd say twilly tips are pobably reserved fot wire only. http://www.animatedknots.com/nailknot/index.php

Mortigan, I imagine he is only going to have 350ft max of wire out during the troll and the braid will only hit the water on fish that rip all his wire out and will be recoverd on to the reel in a short time. Probably won't collect much fleas during that recovery time.

We were new to wire last year and Malin 7 staid 30# worked well for us beginners. I reseached this last year and it appeared malin had the most positive reports. Put wire on what you have, Keep an eye on your tips for grooves and give it a whirl. Even though I just put twillys on my new rigs my friend pointed out that for the most part that eyelet is pointed right back at the dipsey and doesn't even have a bend on the wire while trolling. He isn't putting twillys on his so we can watch them.

That is great that your deck is aluminum. My GLS was plywood and rotten when I redid it. Good luck with the removal!

Wire on fire!!! The signiture that wire puts out attacts bites. I pulled 30lb fireline for years while fighting the fleas. Put wire on and the dispsys actually became the dominate producers. I think you can get 2 1000 ft spoools of 30lb malinwire from bretts on the bay for 74$.

When you had the carbs apart did you pull the needle valves and seats. I know you said things looked clean but did you back flush all of your orifices and cicuits with carb/chock cleaner. I have had 3 friends in the past tell me they pulled the carbs and they were clean and all 3 times when I pulled them apart and started back flushing circuits I found them plugged. You should pull the needle valves and seats, inspect the tips, alot of small engines are having the rubber tip stuck do to ethonal degrading it. You should back flush the idle cuicuits and main jet circuit to include any air bleed emulsion ports. Back flush the needle valve seat back to the fuel inlet. While doing this you will learn the passages of your carbs. Hope this helps or you may have allready hit them.

Yes sir ree. That is awesome that you were running 10 rods. You can be proud of that. Out deep I plan to run 9 this year. 3 riggers 4 dipseys and 2 coppers off the boards. I was wondering what you mean by" running the tow line as low as poss so the line doesn't mess with the rods and the lures run more true. I always thought that jerky action off the tow line gave the baits action. Do most of your releases lay in the water on a 4 rod set up? Obviously your set up works. Just inquiring.