buckboardjr

I did one by hand and that was enough. Built this out of a pc of firewood and a lagbolt with head cut off. Well worth the few minutes it took to make.

My assistant AKA Skunky the cat is nice, but pretty much untrainable when it comes to 1st mate duties.

My firiend called telling me of problems loading wire so I built this tensioner out of a auto valvespring, washers and lag bolt. It worked well and had no prblems. My assistant was impressed.

Thanks for the report. I will pass that on to my friend who was going to try and launch a 22ft. He will prob go to Lansing and run south! Way to get out there!

Bazooka Ya I bought 2 of those UG BWD1101 -9 s last yr in hi speed mode on the way to Fairhaven for a 9 day trip. They were $54. ea. I ran them and liked them. Atomik reccomends them. I just picked up 4ea. Okuma Classic Pro GLT Rod - CP-CL-862M for $36ea. They appear to be comparible at less price.

I use 4 pin trailer light connectors. You can actually wittle them down with a razor blade so that they are a direct connection to the old cannon connectors. I have all 3 of mine like that. Be advised some of the china ones are less than 16ga wire. Look for heavier ones. Mine have not been an issue with 12lb torpedos. Modified trailer plug OEM cannon old style Rigger side. You can usually get the trailer harnesses with both sides for 5-7bucks.

I will take them. PM sent. Someone beat me to them!!

My fishin partner has been watching that vid over and over. He just ordered a 2nd pair of dipsey outfits because of it. Way to drive the economy!!

Very Nice!

Does your boat look anything like this? http://allentown.craigslist.org/boa/2907765893.html

Nicely done Ray!!!!!

It's all about the materials in the rubber. I have been changing mine out every other year on my river boat because of that problem yet my large boat still has the one on it that came with the boat when I bought it used in 99. It is always plyable even in cold WX. The Attwood ones are hard in cold WX right out of the box and get real bad in one year. I say when it is time to replace my big boats bulb, I will buy OMC for that reason and I'm not the kind of guy that pushes OEM equip. In racing, general auto repair, and marine there are lots of sub par products out there in the lines of plastic, rubber, and sealing products "gaskets, O-rings & sealants" I have been bit many times because of them. Valve stems for tires and wiper blades are 2 easy ones off the top of my head. I just replaced my water pump on my 88hp. I put OMC in it back in 99. When I disassembled it, it was still good. I looked on the impeller and to my surprise I saw the LORD logo on it. Lord builds Engine mounts for Aircaft Pratt & Whitney engines. Just remember your OMCs and Mercs ect. get a lot of their sub-components from other venders. We all know They don't have oil refineries to make their oils, & lubes nor do they make thier gaskets, hoses, ect ect. Sometimes OEMs make mistakes and choose poor vendors for thier products as well. Examples: Late model Cannon DWN rigger pwr cords insulation falling apart in 3 yrs. MY 1984s still have original. Skidoo carb intake boots fall apart in 3 yrs. We all just have to wade through it and forums such as this help bring light to the truths and falisies.

WOW! Great Vid!!!!

Nice fabrication! I also like all those rod holders on the wall. and Ol Mossy Horn Guarding the Toybox.

Tony, I like the Idea that AC pushes that 27fter with a 9.9. I have seen some large Bajas with 9.9s on them as well. That 7.5 should do you fine. I do feel that you will need the prop down below the hull . Mine is a long shaft and gets a full prop bite . Your bigger boat may need just enough extra throttle to bump the RPM up into the "above 12volt range" to utilize it's charging system as well. My last brown trip we trolled 9.5 hours and I swear there was still 2 gal. left in a 3.5 gal can. There was only 2 of us and 2 planer boards and 6 stickbaits don't pull to hard. I have a troll king on mine as well and being able to keep your down speed in the target range longer equates to more fish in the boat and if you are in to building your own stuff I believe you can build your own speed contol for under $50. All you need is a RC servo checker < $5, RC Servo <$10, Shielded wire ?$, 12v -5v pwr supply should be able to use an old 12v cell ph charge cord. Enclosure for Rheostat/servo checker <$10. If my friend makes one for his I'll pass on the info.

If your aluminium boat or aircraft was built with rivets and sheet metal then the best repair is with an aluminium sheet metal patch, rivets and good sealant. They have been building and repairing aircraft this way for 80 years and still are. A rivet gun, sets, and bucking bar are the only specialty tools needed. Maybe some clecos and pliers if it is complex. Stop drill the cracks, cut a patch that covers the damaged area and picks up a row of existing rivets on each side. Drill the heads off the existing rivets and pun.ch the tails out. Don't drill through the holes and elonggate them. Lay your patch in place. Pick up the existing rivets, you'll also add a row up each side of the crack. Mock it up, After all the holes are drilled, Schmootz it up with sealant and buck your rivets as original. Dip your rivets in sealant as well. Yah Yah I know JB weld is easier. If its not too structual go with what ever stops the leak. If it's gonna flex , get beat, or is structual then do a quality sheetmetal repair.

I'm quite sure That BazookaJoe Paints his bubblegum pink and has good luck!

I can run a 12hr day of fishing using my main starting battery to run the electronics and elect riggers. I also carry a fully charged deep cycle size-27group as a backup. On a 3 day non electric camp trip I fire up the big eng for 1/2 hr mid day to top off the batt. Electric camp trips you will see me charge up at camp. Most people that have more modern charging systems on thier kicker stay maintained with it. The riggers are what eat the juice. The electronics aren't so bad. SOG = Speed over Ground usually provided by your GPS

Don't rule out an 80's Honda 7.5 4stroke unless someone chimes in and has come up low on power with a boat similar to yours. Especially if you can get one on a deal with known history.There are alot of way heavier fiberglass boats out there trolling around with 9.9s on them. Those 7.5s are actually 8hp. The gov. made a change a few years back to the way HP is advertised and listed. I use one on my 19.5 GLS . 4 guys, 3 riggers pulling 13lbers, probe, 2 divers, 2 planerboards, 1ea. 400 copper, 1ea. 500 copper. I dought I ever got above 1/2 throttle. 11hrs trolling and still didn't eat 3.5 gal of gas. As an Aux. PWR Source it pushes my boat 5.3 SOG at WOT. Sour note on the Honda 7.5s from the 80s is the charging syst. is simple and does'nt put out enough "VOLTS" at lower rpms as the system relies on just a rectifier bridge with no voltage regulator. It has the ability to supply 5 amps at WOT but until voltage is built to above Bat Volts you get nothing. And that appears to be above 3/8 - 1/2 throttle.

I bought 3 last year. Had my best season and caught my deepest targeted fish ever. It was slow and I started marking fish 158 ft down on bottem, so I sent one down 158 knowing I wouldn't hit with blow back. 2 or 3 min later bam. 25lber. Most of the week I ran 110- 135 down with no tracking probs. I painted mine flat black.

I'm 100% for the training but 100% against the Money grab. If they impose it, it should be a one shot fee. Will it remedy issues on the water ? No!~ there will always be !$#@$^^$##@s out there but it might save a life or a boat or some tackle some day. Just grandfaTHER ME IN. dON'T NEED ANOTHER FEE!

Nice Job Fellas!! Thanks for the report.

When you say "it was peeing before", Do you mean recently or last fall when you put it away? I ask this because mud dobbers plug the pee hole up on mine in the fall and I usually have no stream untill I un plug it with safety wire. In this situation the engine cyls. &heads are getting the cooling but there is no "witness stream" for you to monitor.