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RYE

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Everything posted by RYE

  1. you won't be sorry with the x4, just make sure you mount your transducer with right angle, con with the moors, you have a coated cable to contend with. I get a full season out of a set of batteries in probe of x4, constant read and no cable issues. before the x4 I ran the 840 on three different boats, worked good for me but doesn't compare to their new design, my opinion........
  2. RYE

    Boat Deck

    Clorox Cleanup does a real good job for me. Great on dried blood. I wouldn't be withoout it.....
  3. Nothing wrong with the Oak for your fall salmon fishing, just don't plan to early. Don't plan before last two weeks or so of September, and then it depends on the water flows. Some guys actually change there sleep up and fish at night, check regs, where legal. Lures and egg sacs work well. One lure that has worked well for me in the light is a long billed crank in firetiger. Key though is to burn it. If you think your reeling fast, reel a little faster. Ya make 'em mad, they'll bite it. Lot of guys use rattle traps as well. If you use egg sacs, use enough floatation to keep it just off the bottom. If lake conditions cooperates get that lead core out and run #4 silver bullet J plugs in 50-100 ft of water put in front of break wall. Run the lead just short of the bottom contour and zigzag troll at about 2.7-3.0 mph. Every once in awhile if you bring the plug up and it's got zebra mussels on the hooks, your in the zone. Just clean them off and get back down there. As far as lodging if the weather permits alot of guys bring tents and stay either at North of the Ridge or the state park off of 18. There that's a start, any questions don't hesitate.
  4. My first and foremost suggestion would be to not venture to far from safe habor with the size boat you will be using. Weather can come up quickly. 1. You do not need lc's. I did not have any for years. Just count the passes the reel makes and multiply by approx. 3' for each pass, roughly. If you go to lc's go with the 47's, more capacity. 2.The rods will work but you should have twilly tips on the ends for wire. 3. Very good reference guide. Another good publication is the mag Great Lakes Angler good articles, they do alot with small boat rigging ideas. 4. Again, pay close attention to weather. DO NOT slight on your safety equipment, to include a good operating vhf and gps. 5. If I were starting out again, I think one thing I would do differently would be once or twice I would charter a trip to see what techniques and tackle are being used. Most all of your known charter captains will be more than happy to show you the ropes so to speak to assist you in the learning curve. One can buy alot of not needed tackle in the process. Hope this is a start, we all needed this at some point and most of us are continuing to learn............good luck, good fishin
  5. Freeman, no offense intended to anyone but I must suggest you think about spending alittle extra and buy new. I believe you can find a very capable unit for around $150.00. A vhf is one of your main pieces of safety equipment on board next to your life vests. Piece of mind alone of knowing what you got is worth the extra few dollars spent on new. Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth. At some point you could always buy a good used unit for a backup, possibly......good fishin
  6. with the twillie tips they'll work just fine. not familar with the okumas, would be best, much easier for you rigging to duplicate sets, if they have counters though...
  7. The docks at the Westside state ramp on the Oak were going in yesterday while I was there.
  8. nothing fance for me as well, point, hit the button and forget about it... I'm using a Raymarine, have had no issues in four seasons with it, holds a very acurate course even in heavier seas,there are several manufacturers out there that make a suitable unit for what he needs,wants out of it....good luck
  9. The 22 w/hardtop was my first Lake O boat. A very dry, strong boat. You will appreciate the extra length and you will learn boat operation in heavier seas real quick. I appreciate the knowledge I acquired for boat handling from that 22 footer.....enjoy
  10. Ease of operation and detail, to include at speeds with a thru hull ducer don't believe you can go wrong with a Furuno 585..I've run one for several years, very clear screen res, and you really don't spend anytime time at all in re-adjustments. Good hook echo returns! I'm sure there is several good ones out there, though, from several manufacturers...good luck,
  11. Pig Pen, I heard bad news today, Labatt's stopped importing!!!!! see ya soon
  12. Thanks Jim, it's in the mail.....Bob
  13. I fished a 27' Baha single screw for 12 seasons. Never backed in to dock, wouldn't want to on regular basis with current of any kind. Mine would back to port and also to starboard in right conditions with NO throttle. Was only ever towed off one time. It was a 350 chevy block Mercruiser. Cruised 28 mph with a weight of approx. 7000 lbs. Wouldn't be afraid to go back to single again, much better fuel economy then a twin, on a long run, I can tell you that much.
  14. wire is way to go, set your drag real light after you have the dipsey at the ft out you want to cover than attach a #3 or so rubber band around the wire to the reel handle. fish hits, rubber band breaks then adjust drag to fight fish. this helps avoid loosing the fish from the initial shock of the strike, silver diver/black diver are my best.. somedays if it weren't for my divers it would be a slow go...good luck
  15. Rob, I'll take the flutter spoons, if it suits you give me a total price, your full name, and address. I'll cut you a check, when you receive it and get it cashed you can send them to me. Let me know if that suits you, thanks Bob Eder
  16. Rob, have you sold the flutter spoons and if not how many millers are included? thanks for reply, Bob
  17. A word of caution, I would not attach steel to aluminum unless you use an anti-corrosion tape between the two metals. The aluminum will react with the steel causing it to corrode if you do not.
  18. Regardless of sealant probably your best fix for a thru hole is welding. I worked in aluminum construction for alot of years in the truck industry. The seams then were either foam taped between the layers or caulked, usually both. The company I worked for was Grummans who also built boats. I would suggest welding your hole than applying a thin bead of a good sealant on the outer seam as well as inner if you can access it. There will probably also be foam in the hull to contend with, prior to welding make sure that all combustibles are clear in the hull at the immediate area of the repair. Good luck with your fix.....
  19. Yankee, I've only ever run two. Always made sure they are heavier then required. Only problem I've ever found is onboard chargers cooking the water out, even the auto ones. Just cooked a set last season, new set this spring and I will be very selective when I hookup charger. good luck
  20. Don't know the 511, I'm running the 585 w/thru hull. Very easy operation, tons of detail.
  21. I current run a Furuno 585 w/ thru hull transducer. The detail is great, and very simple to operate, adjust. I myself like separate units for my electronics that way if something should go down your not loosing multiple units for repair, ie gps and ff ect. I would also suggest the fishhawk x4 if you want speed n temp. I upgraded last season, the probe ran the same set of batteries all season and there is no downrigger cable to mess with..... Good luck with the new rig,that lund will last a lifetime
  22. I would also suggest straightening out the tails on the weights. Fish weights work alright as long as they track straight. I thumb the spools on a clicker drag as the ball drops. My drags are pre-adjusted on my rigger rods and I don't touch em unless someone gets into by accident. The wire divers, check your tension screw often. We set the drag very light, play out with thumb on spool, clicker drag. When we get to desired distance out we keep drag light and attach a #2 or 3 rubber band to the wire and afix to reel knob. Fish hits, breaks the rubber band, softens shock of initial strike. You can tighten drag as needed once you have control of the rod. Works for us....
  23. thanks Allout, good luck with the purchase!
  24. 95 Baha 28.5'
  25. welcome to the site Steve
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