cheeseyrider

Why are you selling if I may ask?

Looks like a black fin tuna, caught one on a trip to St Thomas. Did u get a chance to eat any tuna?

Got a Captains pac in off season 11/2012 for a steal $650, they recently replaced two net holders for free with beefed up ones. Mine was silver powder coated, they now only offer anodized. I don't think u can go wrong.

Thanks for all the info I should be able to figure the problem out. I ll let you know how I make out

I believe my tabs are Bennett, any help is appreciated, thanks

Have same problem with mine, boat is a 1990 so there probably on a long time. Are they worth trying to repair?

We were there Monday caught 8 total ,3 Lakers, 3 browns, 1salmon, 1 steel. Ran down towards catfish and the rock cliffs they call the high-rise( all towards the power plant), setup there fishing towards power plant in 25-45 water then headed out once past the rocks til hit 85ft water, put down cow bells off the bottom on two poles, ran the others for browns n steel head colors off riggers and boards. Fished parallel to shore towards five stacks staying in same water. Some boats were running along the bouys towards shore and following that line, fished long leaders even on riggers 85-100 ft back. Went back Tues morning and tried to run same program but water temp changed, was a lot colder in that area from high 30.s -40's. Day before temp was around 50-52 surface. Saw ur trailer in lot when we took out Tues. Id try to stay in the warmer water 50-52 and fish cow bells with peanut on the end. Funny the salmon came on a bluecowbell with a small blue spoon on the end instead of the peanut.

duckreaper I sent you a PM

I second that, I looked on the Orleans Ct site and came up empty.

Rain or shine I sent you a PM

PM sent

My understanding when you run copper you have to run whatever length you have on the reel out until the backing is at the tip of the pole and copper is in the water, same as lead core, you can't stop without putting out whatever you are carrying because having leadcore or copper at the tip continuously will wear out the line. I have seen leadcore just break at the tip when just putting out a few colors and leaving some on the reel, I'm new to fishing copper so please help out if this is incorrect.

I told the dirt bag he didn't belong on this forum as a scammer.

Anyone have any experience rebuiding the tilt/trim hydraulic cylinders? My resevoir keeps turning a milky color, drained it and re-filled ,same thing. Looked at the cylinders and you can see traces of oil around the end. Are they a pain to work on as opposed to buying after marked and replacing new? I know they make re-build kits and after market new. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

Just to set the record straight I contacted Gemeco, Airmar's branch that sells transducers and they do not carry adapters that adapt one transducer to fit another make FF, you would have to obtain a pigtail from the maker of the new unit and splice wires. My bad

From what I understand thru Airmar you can buy short length adapters that will let you adapth a transducer from one brand FF to another. I'm going thru the same thing, I have a P66, bought to fit a lowrance and going to a furuno 587. What I would really like to know is it worth the extra money to go to the TM260 ? Prior answers have been you don't really need anything more than the P66 and 600W due to the depth of fishing in LO. Has anyone used a TM 260 to really say whether the difference has been. I know that once you have the TM260 you can use the 1K watt on the 587 and are good for salt waters deeper depths

Captain's Cove had parts for mine last year and they also repaired back then.

Thanks Vince for your help. I only have one thru-the hull hole from the old Si-tex. Do you think this is a DYI project or one left for the pro's. Also is it worth the extra $400+ to go with a 1K transducer rather than the 600w, assuming I'm going with the Furuno 587? Where should I look for the adapters you mentioned?

FYI There is a recent post under Questions about Lake Ontario Fishing under Airmar Transducers that may answer some of your questions.

I've been reading alot of posts trying to learn as much as I can before I replace my fishfinder. Looking at the Furuno 585/587 but not sure to go with a transom or thru the hull mount. I'm replacing a color lowrance that took a crap with an airmar P66 already mounted on the transom. Originally on the boat had a SITEX with a thru-the hull transducer. It was one of the those larger units that looked the size of a minTV, I never liked it so I replaced with the lowrance. I left the thru the hull transducer alone and simply ran the cable to the side out of the way and cable tied it. I have a plug with o-rings on it that I believe is used to plug the hole if you wanted to remove the transducer in the hole. I left well enough alone. So if I went thru the hull would you remove the present thru the hull with a flaring block and work with that hole or just let that alone and start over with a new hole. With my lowrance and the P66 when I had to increase RPM's to maintain speed into the wind it seemed I had more interference on the screen which I attributed to cavitation due to more air bubbles from increasing RPM. I guess there is the possibility this was caused by electrical interference also due to increased RPM. With a new installation I'm trying to eliminate that and improve performance which is why I'm considering thru-the hull transducer. I've been on The Hull Truth site and looked at the installation videos from BOE. Other questions that pop up would the P66 transducer from the lowrance be usable with an adapter to make the plug end work with a Furuno or is a new transducer required? Would I be able to use the present thru the hull transducer with the Furuno by trying to get an adapter to make the end plug work? Lastly I fish primarily LO so what are the benefits if any if you went with a 1kw transducer instead of a 600 watt transducer. Not sure it matters but I have a 1990 Thompson 210 Fisherman. Any help/insight would be appreciated.