TyeeTanic

This knot, except you can make it simpler by tying the overhand knot in step 4 FIRST, leave that overhand about 1 inch from the end of the doubled line, then put your swivel through. http://njsaltwaterfisherman.com/forums/index.php?topic=15015.0

Flashers with meat is the most common setup.

Well, North Shore gets tough ... staging salmon are not the easiest to catch. I'd much rather pick end of July to fish than September, that's for sure.

Kings in August and particularly September? I wouldn't waste my time ... September they are well into staging, have stopped eating and some have even started running up rivers. This starts mid August. The best time of the year to fish them is end July in my opinion. Anyhow, if you do go in August, try going earlier rather than later. The bite changes from one of appetite, to one of aggression that time of year ... and so normally we switch up to bright colors red/orange/purple ... even start going to erratic baits like lymans, j-plugs, reer runners, etc. Staging salmon normally move to shallower water, but sit right at the bottom, so you need to troll with your lines about 10' off the bottom.

I assume you are fishing lake Ontario. If so, look at this site, find out how deep you need to go to get in some 42 to 44F water. Set hooks anywhere from 42F to 52F. https://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glcfs.php?lake=o&ext=vwt&type=N&hr=06

Not sure if you've considered a charter from Wilson. Nice time of the year to go salmon fishing.

Braid. I used to use electrical tape, which is okay as long as you use only 1 revolution. If you put a cushion down, the wire can squeeze into it like a sponge and that throws you spool alignment off from the worm gear guide. I put on like 100' of braid and then attached the wire, and got 1000' perfect to the top of the spool. Closer to the top you are, the more accurate your line counter is!

We apply them to boards. They are great when the water is cooler and fish are higher in the water column. Not sure where you fish, but I don't find them that productive from end of June. Water is just too warm, and fish are too deep for the leadcores. We always put 20' of leader on them, and used 15 to 20 lb fluoro. As others are suggesting, make sure you completely submerge the leadcore by letting a bit of backing into the water.

Braid backing, probably 100' to cover the base of the spool, then you can do a "wireline to mono knot" (except it'll be braid not mono), see this link https://fishing.boyslife.org/8-fishing-knots-to-know/ Then roll that wire tight and slowly, after that a swivel at the end using this knot: http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

30# wire for dispeys, 7 strand. 30# mono good for downriggers, and then some 15 lb or 20 lb fluoro for leader (20').

Run inside at 1, and outside at 3 for max separation. Let the outside one out first, and then deploy the inside one. You should be fine, unless you hit a situation where you try and deploy the outside diver AFTER the inside is in the water. This sometimes happens when a fish hits the outside diver and you bring it in, then redeploy it. The issue is when you redeploy it isn't biting into the water and pulling to the outside nicely. It just sinks behind the boat and inevitably tangles with the inside diver line. It can be done, but you have to release it really slow on the outside of that inner diver. Otherwise, for first timers, I'd say just bring in the inside diver to check it, and redeploy the outside first, inside second.

Convectors are probably the best value for money. All the important parts are robust. They lasted me for a while.

Agreed, provided all 3 guys pay an equal share to the tournament costs. Costs include entry, food, lodging, boat slip, etc. In the past, we took winnings, paid all costs, and then divided by # people + 1 boat, assuming each paid an equal share in the entry fee (which was in essence paid in advanced so this cost was not taken off).

Typically the 600 series is used to get all 1000 ft on, with a little bit of braid backing.

Good system, does things other systems can't. Yankee did do an informative review, search for it.

Any boat cost = initial investment + additional investment to fix things. 80's ... I agree with post above, you need to take a good look at the engine and drives, you don't want a big $ surprise. My friend has a awesome Pursuit, got it at a deal knowing he'd have to put work and $ into it. Still came out ahead, but he worked hard last 2 years and paid lots of $$ in. The boat is in awesome condition now, and again, he came out ahead (comparing to buying a boat in the current condition). But he knew he was going to invest $10k's more ontop of the purchase price. Be careful, it can turn into your worst nightmare.