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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. I always hold the netting in my hand on the shafts and only let go once the basket is below the fish and at least half the fish crosses the rim of the net. Alternatively there are net clipping mechanisms that release under the wight of the fish once it is in the net.
  2. Awesome. This is definitely on my bucket list.
  3. Chrome frog and Atommik stud fly is doing a lot of damage.
  4. Further away from the fin at the back, more action. Front hole, and fin side hole is standard, but if you want more action try front hole and side hole opposit fin. We've been using that more frequently these days.
  5. I'd try both, but mostly inclined to use it with a spoon.
  6. Yes use 20# Fluor leader, around 15 to 20 ft.
  7. Can you take the gunnels out and epoxy them thick? That's what I did. You can use a cannon track to put a rigger mounting post on, that will fit the gunnels.
  8. Advantages of using auto, when you are reeling in a fish, you can bring your weight up. Your arm won't be broken at the end of the day. You can use a 15 to 16 lb weight and change out lures freaquently without anything breaking like your arm. I wouldn't use manual, but that's my choice. You can get electric ones at a good price if you look for second hand ones.
  9. We run them 2.2 to 2.8 mph.
  10. Good suggestions. I'd add the atommik pro am uv glow fly and chrome frog spin doctor.
  11. Lots of fish over 20 lbs taken in the tightlines tournament today. My fishing buddy weighed in the biggest fish at almost 26 lbs.
  12. Rather look at this, temperature transects: https://www.glerl.noaa.gov//res/glcfs/glcfs.php?lake=o&ext=vwt&type=N&hr=00 You want to find a body of water that is warm on top, and has a zone which is 44 to 48F. That will tell you the depth the fish are likely to be sitting in. Look for structure on your fish finder map ... where does the bottom drop quickly, where are there "peninsulas", where is there a mound? If that structure corresponds with the depth you are looking for in terms of temp (44- 48F), start there. Obvserve the following: - what do the reports online say? - are you marking fish? - do you see bait? - do you see lots of birds somewhere in the distance? - what color is the water (green is good)? - are there any other boats catching fish in the area? Have fun, stick to the lures/flies you know work, and keep trying.
  13. Nice fish. Have had the same thing happen to me, trying to take a fish out of net for a kid who had never caught a salmon before! I was like, take the darn picture, and his dad was forget it, just throw the fish back in so we can take care of your hand. I was like, it's his first fish! Take the darn picture. LOL. Hospital visit to take it out, the barb was lodged on a tendon and we couldn't push or pull it out without slicing my hand open. Off to Jamaica the next day on a holiday. Helped heal the hand.
  14. Scotty snubber. Put a chain link clamp on the downrigger weight and then connect the snubber.
  15. We always start with a mix, focusing on spoons with some flies then moving to flies with some spoons as the day goes on.
  16. Just double loop the braid around the clip, or use elastics.
  17. You'll need to put 30# braid backing on it for a size 30 reel to work. 7 colors is about the most colors you can get on a size 30 reel and still have enough room for braid backing.
  18. It's 50/50 with us as well. Perhaps you have good color combinations with SDs, but not with pro troll?
  19. 100 ft of braid backing, then tie your wire. Anything that stretches (mono) or is a cushion below the wire (tape) isn't the best. It will cause the wire to pull tighter on the reel and this will misalign the wire with the reel guide, which will cause lots of friction and possibly lead to a reel lock up if a big fish hits. Braid is generally used so that the reel is 100% full when you spool with 1000 ft of wire, which makes the line counter more accurate, as it is calibrated to the correct length per revolution at the very top of the spool. As line is fed off the reel, the line counter becomes more inaccurate.
  20. Steelhead are always in the top third to half of the water column. They generally like warmer water than king, which is why you catch them on the free sliders. This time of year, with the water being cold top to bottom, you really need to target the first 15 ft of water. In July and August we generally find them at 20 to 40 ft.
  21. To target coho, as you say we would run high lines this time of year, focusing on top 15 ft of water. Also, there are specific coho setups involving a orange dodger and a twinkie fly (silver fly that is short around 2 to 2.5" long). I had good success getting them on an all blue mepps syclops lure.
  22. We use a snubber between the ball and cable for two reasons, but first here's the entire setup, cable end-speed/depth probe-snubber- ball. The reason we do it that way is if anything will break due to a hang up, it'll be the snubber, and at least you don't lose the probe. But it also helps in waves, to take some stress of the gunwale.
  23. Paul, I totally agree on repeatability. However, I'm just answering the poster's question. He asked how can I mark line every 10 ft. Someone said count the line guide passes. That isn't accurate in terms of ft out.
  24. Watching your line guide past isn't an accurate method when you have to let a lot of line out. As the spool gets thinner there's a lot less line going out for each pass of the line guide. To give you an idea, when you are almost empty of line only about 1/3 of the length goes out per revolution when compared to when the line is full.
  25. His spoons are awesome, but his customer service needs to be jacked up in a big way. Too bad, those spoons could have taken over the market.
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