TyeeTanic

I started left with bass rods, then went right with salmon rods because that's what was available. Right handeds are fine ... and better to have for resale (more popular)

Exactly, and the snubber helps to soften blows to the downrigger/gunnel in wavey conditions.

Can you take a few pictures of them, as follows: - close up of the arm. - close up of the entire board, connected to your line. - board in water a few feet behind boat - board in water in the final position (distance) behind the boat. With those, I'm positive we'll be able to figure this out.

Okuma convectors are the best you can get at that price point. The important parts are steel, which is well ... important!

What reel are you going to use to put 1000 ft of wire, and then 300 ft of weighted steel?

Yup, I've seen this in action. Actually they used it to take off gummy residue from my car logo on the back hood of my sports car. It didn't damage the paint. Use heat and peal off what you can, then the eraser wheel to take off the gunk. Polish with a polishing machine and it will be like new.

I've safely put backing and 7 color on a Convertor CV30D

We've started using the setup in Ontario. I still need to be convinced that it's worth the headache of handbombing the line in those last 20 ft. Tonnes of loose line in the boat and with a flapping fish, things can get tangled.

Why not use wire divers?

Fixed sliders are my preference. 6ft fluoro leader on swivel that attaches to main line off rigger.

I Used An Or16 clip To Attach The Torpedo To my Leadcore Line To Get More Depth. I Let Out All The leadcore and Then Added The Torpedo.

I would run 1 more wire dipsey and 1 copper (probably 250 or 300ft). Wire dipseys catch most of our fish.

I believe Atommik did in the past. Not sure now ... perhaps they will, with a special order?

Pro troll or spin doctors are good. Lately I have been purchasing Michigan Stinger flashers ... UV Frog and UV Frog Black have been absolute studs for me. Most of the good ones are on this page: http://www.anglersavenueproshop.com/michigan-stinger-flashers/?sort=featured&page=9

On Lake O you want 12 lb minimum weight. I think torpedo offers some of the lowest blowbacks pound per pound due to its shape which will keep drag to a minimum. If your rigger can handle it, try a 16 lb torpedo which will basically reduce blowback to a small amount, still will be some, but you'll probably be within 5 ft or so of target. I've tried pancakes, hate them. Cannon balls are okay, but still way more blowback than torpedo weights.

Good write up Yankee.

Here's the write up: http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/61752-a-season-with-the-smart-troll/

I understand, but what will you do with the $300 probe that is worth more than the BT phone (which you can get for $100)? I'm sure you will lock that away or bring it home. Remember one other benefit with the ST is that almost the entire system is portable. As long as you have another transducer, you can quickly unclip the receiver, monitor and probes and use the system on another boat. Guys have even figured out how to mount the transducer so it is portable as well. So if you screen has some kind of a quick attachment like a RAM clip or velcro (as suggested above), the whole system is portable. You cannot do that with any other device.

I'm not complaining. If it's a hobby of yours, go for it. I'm just saying that ST has invested a lot of time and money already. It wasn't easy for them, but they've got a great product now. I know getting speed right is a major challenge.

Why is it a deal breaker? I had a phone holder mounted to my helm, that phone was going no where. Also, ST took many years and $$ to develop. You may figure out how to measure depth quickly, but speed will be your biggest challenge. You aint going to figure that out in the cost it takes to buy a probe package $599.