TyeeTanic

Those are really nice storage sheets. I like the protective sheet that goes over them too! Smart idea.

So which one did you pick Iron Duke?

Actually, now that I think about it, that's what I put in. Haven't had my boat in 6 months! LOL. Getting it back next week!

I actually got mine from walker. You can get a pedestal to elevate the rigger. Cannon makes good tracks and pedestals.

Candy Bubblegum Clown Chameleon All the above can obviously be ammended with UV, glow or mirage added.

I've run Scotty Rod Master II Rod Holders for 4 seasons now on wire divers, rigger rods and copper/leadcore. No issues. None.

3 Things: CMBO points out 83 kHz should help, as it uses a wider cone angle and can "see" further out. Second point, angle of your transducer also helps, some guys will point it one notch to the back of the boat. Note that this will through off the bottom depth reading as you are no longer measuring straight up and down, but on a slight diagonal. Third point, have you increased your sensitivity. I had to do this on my new HDS 7 touch. I thought the thing was broken until I pushed it up and just like that I could see everything.

Fiona (as in Shrek's girl friend) Salmon Candy Jolly Rancher

If there's a way to do it without that mono piece, I'd do it. That's one less knot I'd have to worry about.

Definitely lose the mono backing and go to 30# braid, really, it's a no brainer. You will save reel capacity (even compared to only 17# mono) and have a stronger backing. My favorite leadcore setups are 5 and 7 color. After that I prefer to switch to copper. If I want more depth on my leadcores, I can attach a torpedo weight (ex. cuda) with an OR16 clip onto the backing and let out 50 ft or so. I attach my board release directly to the braid. What board are you using? If you use something like a TX44, you can stop the braid from slipping through the release by wrapping it around the release once before you clamp down.

Pumpkin or Fiery Bloom or Lava Storm

If you troll with your main motor, that's okay provided (1) you're okay with putting LOTS of hours on your main motor (remember it takes 30 minutes to get to your fishing spot, and 5 hours of trolling). (2) can you get down to 2 mph on your main motor. You want to troll at 2 - 3 mph, average 2.5 mph for salmon. Most guys can't get that low using the main motor, without the use of something to produce drag like a bucket over the side on a rope or a trolling bag(s). Now, if you don't want to put a rigger on right away, I'd invest in 2 kinds of rods. Firstly, and foremost, wireline rods, and put dipsey divers/SD/flies on them or MC rockets. You need the right equipment for this (prefer a roller rod, size 30 reel, with 1000 ft of 7 strand or 19 strand stainless wire). Second would be some leadcore rods (chrome eyes, size 30 reel with backing and 5 and 7 colors of leadcore). If you can do it now, get at least 1 copper rod with 250 ft or 300 ft of 27 lb copper line (you'll need a bigger reel for this). If you don't want to get into leadcore or copper right now then get some mono rods, that you can later change to rigger rods. Get some torpedo weights like the cuda, to attach to the mono line to give you some depth. For ALL the rods I mentioned in the second set, you will need inline planer boards, get 2 TX44 boards (one operating starboard and another port side). For all the second set of rods you will need 20lb fluoro leader - recommend attaching 15 ft to the end of those lines before you put your bait on.

Well for starters, the obvious thing is power, and that will be one of two of the biggest jobs in installing an electric rigger. Firstly you should get a plug and receptacle kit for the electric downrigger. This way you can unplug it and even take it off the boat when it's not in use. You will have to run the right gauge wire to handle the amps and distance - can't remember what amps, but I think 30A is what I based my cable on, with a 20A inline fuse. The cable can go directly onto your battery auxillary posts, and the fuse should be on the live wire (red), as close to the battery as possible (say 1 foot from post). Run wire to wear you want to put the receptacle and secure. Make sure receptacle is in a place where the rigger cable can reach the receptacle without it being tight (pulling). Do you have a place to mount the rigger? Are you considering a pivoting/rotating seat? I would. If ou want to adjust the angle of the rigger, it's best to have a rotating seat. These are made specific to the brand of rigger you have (what do you have?). You can also mount the rigger on a track with a rigger mount pedastol. You should think about what is going to be the easiest and give you the strength to handle as large a weight as possible (I don't like anything less than a 12 lb weight, hopefully your rigger can handle that). Ensure it's mounted in a strong place, reinforce if necessary. A few guys have seen their riggers sink down to the bottom of the lake, with half their gunwale attached. Major repairs to do after that. Also mount it in a way that it doesn't obstruct anything like other rod holders, your engine, your canvas (should be able to close the canvas up if you have one, even if you take it off, make sure the swivel base which says on does not obstruct it). That's probably enough for you to digest for now ... we can talk about rigger snubbers, connectors/clips, cable, etc another time.

I admit 30% is based on what others have told me. I'd love for it to be at 50%. But the sonar tells you how far it is away from the transducer, not how deep it is. The blowback on the main line is significantly impacted with the drag of the slider. Maybe if you can post a screens hot of the sonar it would make it easier to see how you get to 50%.

Sliders are preferred on my boat over stacked rods to get more lines in the water. Slider leader is 6 ft of 20 lb fluoro. Larger swivel on end that connects to main line and small swivel on end that attaches to spoon. Use a smaller spoon on the slider line than you have on the main line. Only use spoons on the slider and main line to avoid tangles. For a free slider drop your main line to the desired depth and then connect the slider line swivel to the main line and throw the spoon to the side of the main line to avoid tangles. It will fall to around 30% of the depth of the main line. Fixed line you drop Mian line around 10 or 15 ft and then attach the fixed slider with an elastic or OR16 clip. Then lower everything to the desired depth.

LOL, that would be a long walk! You can simply let out 10' according to the reel counter, and then measure it. I'm willing to bet it's off by around 10%.

The counter will be off, probably by around 10%. When you start putting line on, I think each 1 ft on the counter is actually only 0.3 ft of line (basically it is over-estimating by 3x). Closer to the top, it's less of an issue, but I'd probably add 10% just in case. To be honest nowadays I don't really worry about where exactly my wire divers are. I put 4 wirelines out at different depths (depending on where fish are - high, middle, deep). So say they're deep in 80 ft of water, I'll go 160, 180, 220, 250 of line out. I'll start getting hits on one of them and then adjust my other lines accordingly.