TyeeTanic

I have got a lot of fish recently on the slider. 6 ft free slider leader, 20# fluoro. Smallest BB swivels you can find. Let out you rigger line as normal down to the desired depth. Clamp swivel around rod line and drop into the water. It will naturally drop about 1/2 way down the line. Make sure the swivel on the line is small enough that it can't get past your swivel on the main rod line. If a fish hits on the slider, it will run all the way down to the main line swivel and stop. This means there's a lot of slack initially, and you need to reel really, really fast to take up that slack and avoid losing the fish. Caught a 25 lb'r the other weekend on a free slider.

Wire divers for sure. They definitely catch more fish than the leadcores. Size #1 dipseys are the most versatile. I can't remember what diameter that is in the luhr jenson.

600' of copper is going to need a big reel. Plus you want at least 500 ft of backing. Here is a reel loading chart from Blood Run Tackle. http://bloodruntackle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/CopperDiveChart.pdf Only 1 Okuma reel that fits that capacity.

If you are using the Fishhawk TD, that is a great device for the money. Put the TD on a dedicated rod with 10 to 12 oz's of weight. Check water temps every 30 minutes and adjust lines into the 44F - 52F territory (most targeting 48F, with a few at the top and bottom of this temp range.)

I caught a 35 lb salmon on an alligator spoon in mid-August. USE SPOONS. I get 60% of my hits on wire diver SD and flies. USE SD and Flies or PADDLES and Flies! We have landed +20 lb salmon on 300 or 400 copper, with meat. Ditto with meat on riggers. USE MEAT OFF COPPER and/or RIGGER! LOL. Sorry to poke fun. But there are no real hard core rules out here. The fish change from day to day, one day all fly bite, another day mostly spoons, another only meat. And I literally mean it changes in a 24 hour period. If you're on the US side, why not 3 rods per person? Aren't these the rules there? (I am in Canada, North Shore of Lake O). For 6 rods, I would start off as follows: - 1 rigger spoon at 44F, put a slider on this rigger with another smaller spoon. - 1 rigger with 11" paddle and meat (cut herring or whole anchovy is what we use). - early in the morning, 1 x 7 to 10 color leadcore on a UV spoon, off board. - early in the morning 1 x 250 or 300 copper on SD and meat, off board. - 2 x wire diver with SD or protroll and flies. If you don't have boards for the copper or leadcore, Than consider another wire diver, and put either a SD/fly on it or a straight spoon (off 8 to 10 ft leader). You can maybe run a flatline down the chute (but I don't like to do this). If you're going to buy boards get TX44's. For divers, yes wire. Fleas are out there by the bucket now, and accumulating on lines. Braid will be useless, and mono has WAY too much stretch, will be difficult to pop the dipsey and result in losses. Get 7 strand, 1000 ft of wire. Fits on a Convector 30D reel perfectly with about 150 ft of braid backing.

Light on the drags. You should be able to pull easily and get line off. By the way, is your leadcore off boards?

It is good practice to have the outside dipsey with a longer line out than the inside. It especially helps on turns and sometimes in high surface currently. If currents are deep and varying, that can play havoc, but that goes with any line include riggers. We had a starboard paddle off the rigger go into the port rigger cable when we were 170 ft of cable out last week. It was nuts.

Other issues that can cause this, but you probably already know: - are you powering the head unit directly from your 12V battery? Is it a clean connection (not taking off power to any other users from this, or not off a distribution bus or switch panel)? Any bad ground will cause interference, unless you have a clean, dedicated cable from the battery to the head unit. - how have you run your power supply cable? Is it run close to the power cable to the engine? At certain engine frequencies, power to or from the engine can interfere with other power cables. - have you used the right power cable? 14 gauge (16 min, but you need to check distances). Correctly insulated cable, marine grade? Too small of a wire will heat up due to resistance, especially over long runs. Also poor quality cable is not shielded as well, so it can increase level of interference from other power consumers or sources. - what kind of interference are you talking about? Lots of color at the top of the screen (prop wash) or dots and dashes everywhere (electrical interference). You could try and reduce your sensitivity, but that will also reduce the fish you see.

Hello all. Does anyone have a Shimano Talora Rod End Cap that they can part with? It's the foam cap that covers the hard plastic gimbel end of the rod (end that goes into rod holder). Any end cap will do as they are all the same size. A guest donated one of mine to Lake Ontario this week. I need them to protect my seats from shafing. Would really appreciate it if someone has a spare one that I can purchase. Please PM me if you have one available. Thanks.

I think 300 ft will get you between 90 and 100 ft at the speeds we travel 2.6 to 2.7 mph. Of course speed is important. If you go 2 mph or less, you could easily hit +100ft with that much line out.

Taloras are not wimpy rods. For riggers you want that flex in order to load up the rod, right down to the water line. Too stiff a rod, and when the line pops off the clip, it's worse for the slack created.

Someone must have reset the line counter. I agree you will never hit 100 ft depth with only 150 ft of line out at 2.5 mph. You would be lucky to be 50 ft deep on a 2.5 setting. If it was a big fish there should have been some variability in the line coming off the rod. If it was bottom it would have come out steady at boat speed. Feels like a fish at first and then you realize the reel is peeling out line at a very, very steady rate. It could have also been a tangle on underwater debris, slightly suspended, like an old buoy line.

Tyee = 30 lbs. But to really stick to the definition of catching a Tyee, you have to obey the rules: http://www.tyeeclub.org/regulations/ Let me summarize: - 6 to 9 ft rod - max 20 lb test line - boat cannot be motorized - single hook - reel with no clutch mechanism (ex. mooching reel) The standards to qualify as a Tyee catch are much more than how much the fish weighs. But, who cares? LOL. If you catch a +30 lb fish, I want to see the picture!! I will gladly tell you that you caught a Tyee.

The length if the leader is set so from dipsey to end of hook is the same length as your rod. Helps Bring fish in and any longer you will have to hand line the fish in. 30 lb fluoro leader for flies 20 lb fluoro leader for spoons. I would nit use a snubber.

Smart.

What does the scale measure?

But I thought that's pretty much what a thumper rod did. Big weight on a rod, and you look at the angle/action to judge the speed?

You mean a thumper rod?

Use a 12 oz torpedo diver. They come with dive charts for mono and braid.

Skipper, do you do this only down the chute? You're not clipping the copper line straight onto a board, are you?