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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. On the HDS you can increase your sensitivity until you see it, but the screen becomes pretty cluttered with a lot of noise. All you are measuring is either a drastic change in water density or scum in the thermocline.
  2. I use an LED work light something like this. http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/images/led-worklight/Gallery/worklight-details.jpg It has a large surface area to cover the spoon/fly/flasher. It's super bright and charges fast. ... and the best thing is it only cost me like $8 or $9 and came with batteries. It's probably the best thing I've come across for charging glowing baits.
  3. Just to clarify, you are talking on a down rigger, right? If so, yes you can get away with connecting directly to mainline in that instance. However, all my rigger rods are already setup with 10 ft fluoro leads and I don't want to take them off, so if I do use a flasher/fly on the rigger, then I just connect the rod up with the leader on it. But you don't need the leader.
  4. 4 lbs, BBQ size. Cedar plank and you're all set.
  5. Or they can avoid a Collison. No one has the right to collide with any other vessel of they have the option to not collide.
  6. Great Lakes Lure Maker, We are in violent agreement. Read the second half of my post under the "-----------" the headers Rules 8 and 13 is where the SAIL BOATER broke the rules. Rule 8 applies to everyone, even the person who is about to get hit by another negligent rule breaking boater. In my post I was merely saying that because he was going faster doesn't mean the power boat has right of way. For instance if he was going faster and coming from your port side, he still has right of way. The fact that the sail boat was OVERTAKING is the reason he is the give-way vessel. He could slow down (say due to wind) and go slower than you, it does not change the fact that he is still the over-taking vessel until he has passed (or falls back to a safe position). Anyhow, we are both saying the same thing, different ways.
  7. Sorry, yes - I meant to say an NBK / 42 spoon. This is the 42 spoon I mean: http://www.gloutdoors.com/images/products/detail/1367.jpg This is the NBK spoon I'm talking about, and notice the UV tape - got it at the Niagara LOTSA Salmon School in Jan this year! http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0321/7745/products/FN_213.jpg?v=1401298104
  8. Great Lakes Lure Maker, that is not a marine officer's interpretation. Under power means you have a mechanical propelling device that is on. It is not related to speed at all. So, a sailboat normally has the right of way over a power boat, if not operating an engine/kicker. Here are the Canadian rules, I'm pretty sure US rules are the same, particularly as these apply Internationally. http://laws-lois.justice.gc.ca/eng/regulations/C.R.C.,_c._1416/FullText.html Rule 3 General Definitions — International For the purpose of these Rules, except where the context otherwise requires: (a) The word “vessel†includes every description of water craft, including non-displacement craft, WIG craft and seaplanes, used or capable of being used as a means of transportation on water. (b) The term “power-driven vessel†means any vessel propelled by machinery. ('c) The term “sailing vessel†means any vessel under sail provided that propelling machinery, if fitted, is not being used. (d) The term “vessel engaged in fishing†means any vessel fishing with nets, lines, trawls or other fishing apparatus which restrict manoeuvrability, but does not include a vessel fishing with trolling lines or other fishing apparatus which do not restrict manoeuvrability. Rule 18 Responsibilities between VesselsExcept where Rules 9, 10 and 13 otherwise require: (a) A power-driven vessel underway shall keep out of the way of: (i) a vessel not under command, (ii) a vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre, (iii) a vessel engaged in fishing, (iv) a sailing vessel. -------------------------------------------------- This is where the sailboat was wrong: Rule 8 Action to avoid Collision (a) Any action to avoid collision shall be taken in accordance with the Rules of this Part and shall, if the circumstances of the case admit, be positive, made in ample time and with due regard to the observance of good seamanship. (d) Action taken to avoid collision with another vessel shall be such as to result in passing at a safe distance. The effectiveness of the action shall be carefully checked until the other vessel is finally past and clear. Rule 13 Overtaking — International (a) Notwithstanding anything contained in the Rules of Part B, Sections I and II, any vessel overtaking any other vessel shall keep out of the way of the vessel being overtaken. (d) Any subsequent alteration of the bearing between the two vessels shall not make the overtaking vessel a crossing vessel within the meaning of these Rules or relieve her of the duty of keeping clear of the overtaken vessel until she is finally past and clear. There's more here, that makes it clear that the boat that is overtaking is the give-way boat, and the boat being passed is the stand-on boat. http://navruleshandbook.com/Rule13.html
  9. A sailboat is considered having less maneuverability when not under power than a person with lines in the water. Your vessel still has LOTs of maneuverability with lines in the water. You just don't want to tangle those lines, as it will cost a pretty penny, but that can't stop you from powering down or turning sharply if you needed to to avoid an accident. However, you are correct in saying that a vessel cannot yield if he is being over-taken. You can only yield if you are approaching something. So that's where the sailboater is dead wrong. I am a fisherman, and I've seen sailboats, and other power boats do some pretty crazy stuff out there. And as the OP states, we have 100 miles of lake on either side of us, and don't understand why anybody thinks they need to be within 20 ft of the only other boat out there. It's literally stupid at its best.
  10. The law also says that any captain must do his/her best to avoid an accident, whether you're on a sailboat or not. You are not in a yield position if you are being over-taken. You can only yield if you have someone approaching from ahead. The sail boater clearly broke several rules. Next time (hopefully not a next time) take out your phone and start videoing him. Don't try and be nice about it. If he had hit you, then everyone's life is at risk. I would caution him off and take the phone out to ease the erratic behaviour. Most times (actually the few times I've had to do this), taking out the phone and make sure they know you are taking pictures or video, will get them to alter their direction and behaviour.
  11. You do not attach the last treble to the MC Rocket, it stays loose. The eyelet of the treble should be just behind the end of the MC Rocket. To be honest, I use a different teaser head, with only 1 treble. I used to use one with a schnell hook on the side, but I got a lot of breakoffs at that point, so I now keep it simple and only use the one treble at the end of the MC Rocket and secure the length with a toothpick.
  12. Hmmm, what was the down temp? I would have guessed 80 - 150 is too shallow, as that rain yesterday didn't seem to do too much. I would have probably started in 140 fow and gone to 200 or even 250 ft. But I hear you, evening fishing has been tougher than morning fishing.
  13. Right now green spoons are generally working well. The NBK 42nd spoon always does great for me. Watermelon has also worked well only if the fish are in the top 40 ft though. Monkey puke seems to be getting some good hits as well. But to be honest it changes day to day. We have a program of colors. Start with glow spoons early in the morning, change to greens, then blues and silvers as the sun comes up. Put out a variety, and see what's working. Change up every 20 to 30 minutes, especially if we mark fish and they don't hit. Give each spoon a chance, very speed, heading and depth before we decide to change.
  14. ^^^^ What he said.
  15. I have a place very close to St. Pete's. This time of the year the water is REALLY warm, bath water. The gulf is very shallow - they have to go out like 17 miles to get 100 feet of water. So the water is super warm, even out there. You really need to go offshore to catch game fish this time of year, and an overnight trip is normally necessary. There's still a few options though: (1) party boats will stay in close, maybe 15 miles out, and you'll catch a lot of small snapper (2 to 3 lbs). They use light tackle so it's non stop fun. (2) shark fishing. I've caught plenty small guys like 3 ft, 15 lbs or so, on shore, particularly at night. I wouldn't say they are really strong, not like a salmon. Bigger sharks are something else. You can obviously do this, but I think night fishing is going to be your best charter time then. (3) goliath grouper. You can charter a boat for around $650. They'll stop to catch some snapper on the way, lot's of fun. You keep some to eat, the rest is used as bait for goliath grouper. They'll head to some structure (like a sunken boat) and lure those beasts out. Unbelievable strength. A shark has nothing on a goliath grouper. (4) Deep offshore fishing, overnight trip. Hubbard's Marine at John's Pass offers overnight fishing. They get really deep and always come back with some really good fish. They normally post pictures from each day's catch. Here's the link https://instagram.com/hubbardsmarina/ What's fun is to get a 4 or 5 ft rod and wade into the water and toss a light line in with some shrimp on it. Can catch flounder, sea trout, etc. With a light say 4 to 6 lb line, they are really, really fun to catch. Have fun.
  16. Maybe the tiny probe will induce a bit more drag (definitely not a lot) but for sure these are your options: Option 1) No probe - and you don't have a clue where your copper is at all. Don't try and convince me you do. You may have speed on your rigger which is normally running a lot deeper than the copper. Also, as copper has a shallower dive curve, more of the line is in shallower water than the rigger which will likely be a different current then where you are measuring speed. So, in the end it is pretty much impossible to tell where your copper is. Option 2) Put on a smart troll probe and yes, maybe the line lifts like 2 ft higher, but you know exactly where it is. Put in the 300 ft, expecting it to be at 60 ft down. Oh wait, why is it only at 45 ft???? Man, maybe I should put out the 400 ft. Or put out the 200 ft copper, oh wait it's at 51 ft, huh? Wow, maybe I should throw out some leadcore if I want to target 35 ft. You have the data. Option 1 you do not have a clue where the lines are. I've been using smart troll for 3 years now, and I haven't even come close to losing 1 probe, not even a scare. I normally put the speed probe on my rigger, which carries the same risk as losing a Fishhawk probe. I put the cheaper and slimmer depth/temp probes on divers and board lines. Gives some good insight. And a lot of people are starting to move over to smart troll. It was a slow start for them first couple of years, but in the last 4 months, I personally know 4 guys who have added it to their boat, and many on the fishing forums who are definitely using it or thinking about using it. I didn't say it was the market leader in depth/temp - I meant to say, it's definitely picking up speed and gaining ground. I would never knock the Fish Hawk X4D - it is a great system, and very reliable. But I can tell you that the Smart Troll can do something the Fish Hawk can't and that is measure depth/temp on up to 6 lines simultaneously including divers and copper/leadcore, and you can get speed off the rigger as well.
  17. We have been using anchovies a lot this year. Easier to use, but this year, especially the beginning, the whole anchovy has picked up more fishing than cut herring. We're not dead set on it, herring did do well for one of my friends this weekend, but we like keeping at least one anchovy out, and if it hits we put out more.
  18. X4D - your ball is not at the depth you think (it isn't line out on the rigger or what's on your fish finder, due to blowback). Blowback is significant unless you are using +20 lb balls. Even with 16 lb balls down +130 ft, there is significant blowback. But consider the Smart Troll - it is a much more versatile system. A lot of guys are switching to this.
  19. Good choice. The speed probes are now available. Did you get one?
  20. At the time, the only shortfall for smart troll is they didn't have a speed probe, which gave the X4D an edge (the gap I referred to). Now that Smart Troll has a speed probe (which I have purchased and am using), it is the most versatile system out there. You can add the speed probe and up to 5 other depth/temp probes on the same system. If you want to check where your copper is, where your leadcore is, where your divers are in terms of depth (vs. where you think they are, which could be a whole lot different), then you can do it. No other system can do this. How do you think bloodrun produced all of their copper depth graphs? Using smart troll.
  21. I have the system. Just added a speed probe. System is great, very versatile. I think it's the best system out there IMO.
  22. Don't forget to check out Smart Troll. It is more versatile than anyone of the systems you listed. It does what they all do, and more. Check out their website, and I am not affiliated with them, just a happy user.
  23. Need specifics. What are you fishing with (rods, line, lures), and what is your depth, temperatures and speed?
  24. I don't know, but just about all of my UV lure hits have come when the sun is bright and shining.
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