TyeeTanic

This is what Jake is saying, except he's right, tie the overhand knot first (basically follow these instructions backwards). http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm

I wouldn't do it. You are just asking for problems. When bringing a fish in from the riggers, the line will rise and center, straight into that dipsey diver line.

Yes I have done this many times. The deeper diver should be on the inside. So the mag should be on the inside. Use a 1 setting to get max separation. The #1 dipsey should be on the outside on a 3 setting. If you get a fish on the outside diver and want to put it back out, be very careful. We actually move the inside dipsey to the chute to get it right out of the way. Let out the outside diver very slowly and as far out to the side of the boat as possible. The problem with divers being let out is they do not bite into the water and instead just sink right down and straight. So it can tangle with the inside diver. By letting it out slowly, you are imposing some drag on it which will hopefully allow it to plan out far enough to avoid tangling into your inside diver.

So I got the CV45 reel. I managed to get almost 700 ft of 30# power prO and 250 ft of 45# copper! I spooled 200 ft at first and knew right away I could get at least another 50 ft on. I measure the line independently of the reel counter to make sure how much line I had on.

You should sell yours to wantmorefish then. LOL.

I use Rhys Davis teaser heads - they have a long enough leader.

Ahh, I don't know. Full moon is great dusk fishing. New moon is great dawn fishing. If there's a full moon out, I don't bother getting out until around 10 am, as the salmon have been feeding all night and have full bellies at 6 am.

Fishing charters are out there every day. They know the currents inside out, and know when they are changing. They know what the bend in the rods need to look like. They pay attention to the smallest detail. If you are able to know the water that well, then maybe you can rely solely on GPS speed. But like most of us, having downspeed really helps.

OK thanks. Are they only making 30 lb copper? Anything lighter that might fit on a 30D reel?

They work. Not all the time, just like all the other bait choices. But they work, my biggest on an MC rocket is a 26 lb king. I like using silver with black dots, and light green with black dots. I always use ones with glow. I have caught on purple with glow as well. Work well behind an 11 inch paddle - all silver.

Will 200' copper (plus braid backing) fit on a Convector 30D reel? Not sure if I can swap my 5 color leadcore out for 200' copper. Thanks.

How does bait move in current? Isn't that the answer? I suspect in a strong current the bait has no choice but to move with the current. In a lighter current, the bait will probably face the current and slowly make ground.

Uni to uni.

No, not like a dipsey snubber. Scott makes a snubbed made for downrigger weights. It's much thicker than a dipsey snubber.

Definitely BB swivels. When you start getting spin doctors and meat rigs out there, you will definitely end up with line twist unless you use a good quality BB swivel. If you get a fish on, it could be even worse.

We use a snubber between the cable and ball. It also: (1) takes shock/stress off the gunwales, especially in bouncy seas. (2) will break off if you have a snag, and save your expensive probe (which is mounted above the snubber) from being lost.

There's a few choices, but you don't want to get something that is going to break, or you will need to replace in 1 or 2 years from now. So you want to balance quality and cost. For that I would recommend Okuma Convector 30D reels for everything except copper. If you can afford it, I would get the following: 2 x 9' Trolling Rods with metal guides - like the Talora Copper Rod. These will be good for leadcore or copper (in future). I would put 5 color leadcore on one rod and 7 color leadcore on the other. These will be used on your inline planer boards. I suggest TX-44 boards, and change to the church tackle lock-jaw clip. I would also get a 4 oz, 6 oz and 12 oz torpedo diver to put on the backing of your leadcore lines to get deeper in the summer time. This will allow your leadcores to reach the same depth as copper line (and more). Here's a picture of the metal guides you are looking for in these rods: http://www.fishusa.com/assets/product_images/150030000/Views/200-1.jpg I would then get between 2 and 4 wireline rods. One pair around 8 ft., the other pair 9 or 10 ft. These rods will have roller guides and a swivel tip. You should put 1000 ft of 7 strand wire on these rods. They are great for dipsey divers. Here's a picture of the roller guides you are looking for in these rods: http://www.fishusa.com/assets/product_images/15002051/Views/200-2.jpg Alternatively, instead of roller guide rods, you can get some more rods with metal guides for the wire line rods, but you will have to replace your tip with a twillie tip, to avoid kinking the wire. This will be cheaper than a roller guide rod, but will at least be decent quality. Here is a picture of a twillie tip. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/130850968973-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

Convector 30D is a great reel.I've had mine for years and no problems.

Wait, if he doesn't have all the copper out, won't the copper kink bad on the top eyelet, unless he has a twillie tip?

For sure 100' is not enough on an 8 lb weight, no doubt. The blowback will be VERY big if you were trying to get the rigger down say 80 ft or more. I wouldn't be surprised if you needed to put out 120 ft + of cable to get down 80ft.

welcome.