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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. I use 30 lb fluoro (not that it needs to be fluoro, but that's what I have in my bag). Never had a fish break that off. I did use 20 lb once, and did have breaks. What I found is that 20 lb knicks MUCH easier than 30 lb. The spot that would almost always get compromised is the knot, when clenched. With 30 lb, the diameter is big enough that it just doesn't knick/squish at the knot. So for that reason, I prefer using at least 30 lb leader line.
  2. It can't be your transducer. The other weekend I essentially had the rigger line with short lead almost under the transducer, for sure in the cone because I could see a line I believe was the lure. Fish hit this line 80% of the strikes.
  3. Fishing definitely has been better on the north shore the past 2 weeks. I think everything is just late.
  4. The leader should be long enough to make the distance from your dipsey to your bait the same length as your rod. You want it as long as possible, but not too long that you have to hand line your fish in the final 10 ft. Making all the tackle the same length as your rod, generally gets the fish close enough to the net. If it is all tangled every time you retrieve, you must be letting it out way too fast. There should be decent pull on the rod as it goes out. Start out letting it out slowly and then go faster until you start seeing tangling problems again, then you know what the limit is.
  5. Same with us, we display voltage on our FF. If it drops below a number it cuts out.
  6. We use 30 lb big game mono main line, and then double uni to a 20lb fluoro leader. I can't remember the last time we had a break off. I only use Seaguar or P-Line fluoro leader. We are thinking of going down to 12 lb leader next year, as I've heard from some very reputable charter captains that the catch rate increases.
  7. OK, here's my opinion, but it doesn't matter. First the agreement is what it is, and only you know what was agreed to. Normally a person needs to be there to be a part of the winnings, but if you guys had a different agreement, then that should stick. Second if it's your boat, normally the boat takes a share, whether you were there or not. But was that part of your agreement. I'm just saying how it normally goes. Third, how much money are we talking about, and is it worth ruining a friendship over? What I'd say is have an honest chat with the guys and tell them you thought it would work "X" way, but aren't concerned over it this time. For future, clarify things, especially the grey areas, so you guys can enjoy fishing, rather than let a few $$ ruin everything. I told my team mates, if ever $$ got in between our friendship, I'd rather not participate in tournaments/derbies, and just fish for fun. They all agree. Our setup, normally we have 3 to 4 guys fishing. First, the expenses come off (for that day/weekend of the tourney). Then the boat takes a share - for us it isn't a huge boat so we agreed boat takes 20% always, up to a certain cap (let's say $2000, could be bigger if running a more expensive boat). What's left get's split equally to those that fished that day/weekend.
  8. Haha. I think Guppy has it right, you weren't far enough back and away from the boat. I also think MR580 has it right, the dipsey was higher in the water column than you thought (how did you figure they were 85' down)?? Now as to what fish want and why, is like asking why I want a beer on somedays and a rum and coke on other days. It's just because I feel like it. I've been getting about 80% of my hits on wire dipsey rods, BUT! Get this, on Saturday last weekend I went 5 for 8. ALL 8 hits were on the rigger line. They did not touch the dipsey lines.
  9. How do you know when a fish hits the spoon? Assuming your drag is not set tight (it should almost just creep out slow due to the dipsey drag, 1 click every 5 seconds), then you will know as the line starts peeling out. There will be no mistake. Do they normally just hook themselves? The fish strikes the spoon and hooks itself. Do they pop the dipsey front clip when they hit? Yes, the force of the bite pulls the latch open. How close to the boat should the dipsey be? That is not the important question. How deep should my dipsey be is the better question. Here we target a temperature range about 44F to 48F in Lake O. Sometimes it's 20ft down, sometimes it's 80ft down. Once you know your target depth, you need to let out enough line to get your dipsey to that depth. Use the charts the dipsey came with to figure out how much line to let out to get to the right depth. I'm assuming your reel has a line counter on it which tells you how many feet of line you have let out. How fast do you troll? I've read 1.5 mph but now was to go that slow. For Salmon/Trout that is way too slow. You need to be going more like 2.5 to 2.7 mph. How bendy or stiff should the dipsey rod be? The one I have is pretty flexible. I think it's 1st gen. fibreglass.I would describe the tip as "floppy"/ It should be medium to strong action - so not that bendy, as the dipsey puts a lot of force on the rod. When you see a bunch of marks on the screen at say, 100 feet, do you try to run the dipsey at their eye level? or slightly above maybe? Firstly the fish are at the highest point of the fish arc, assuming they are right under your boat. If I see lots of marks at a particular depth, I set my lines anywhere from that depth to about 15ft higher than that depth. I don't set my lines all at the same depth, and stagger them about 10ft in height apart, to cover more water column. Dipseys are good from around 30ft deep to 80ft deep. After that it gets difficult. Yes you can go shallower, but I feel that gets the line way too close to the boat. Yes you can go deeper, but the risk of tangles and drag on your rod is massive!
  10. I would say a 4 year old is a+30lb king. Anything from 20 - 29 lbs is likely a 3 year old. Basically I believe a king grows around 6-10 lbs per year, on average. You could be more precise by looking at various government (or fishing association) reports, which have by investigation determined salmon age in a sample population. The last report, if I recall correctly, indicated about 70% were 3 year olds, about 20% 4 year olds, and a few 2 year olds.
  11. I use the knot Tim posted, tying the overhand first is a great idea (thanks Tim)! Use a #6 spro snap swivel as others have recommended. I have never lost a dipsey from a wire snap. I have only lost a dipsey from throwing the whole lot into the lake, without clipping the snap swivel on - dooo!
  12. OK, so I assume you are hooking the main line to the swivel arm. Sorry for asking a basic question, but I'd rather make no assumptions. Then off the back ring you have a leader line to the lure? How long? What number setting do you have the dipsey on? Are you putting the weight in the correct position. If you hold the dipsey with the lever arm up, and looking at the back, so you can see the weight, stand on the side of the stern you want to deploy the dipsey and make sure you turn the weight to the center of the boat. That will make sure it goes away from the boat, instead of to the center. Is the weight tight, or swivelling around easy? How do you throw the dipsey out of the boat? Does the lure go in first and allowed to trail before you submerge the diver? And you let it out slow, as in 1 ft per second (to start, then you can go faster as you get it right). Do you have anything else between the dipsey and the lure - flasher/?? If you do all the above, there's no way it should tangle. Mark
  13. I'm pretty sure I have 2 spools of 20lb flea flicker. If you want them, you could have them for free, but would need to pick up. Too busy right now to sort out mailing/payments/etc. Am in Oakville, ON.
  14. OK I will admit I have never used Pledge, but this is what I'm reading, so I don't want to even try it on my isinglass. http://www.boattest.com/resources/view_News.aspx?NewsID=3371 I've also read guys on blogs who state they used to clean their isinglass on their Jeeps and it makes an old panel look great, but following some time, the window yellowed up. I had to replace a panel due to bad sun damage, and that cost me a lot of money, so I don't want to mess around.
  15. We caught 4 fish between 6:30 and 8:30 am in 80 fow, about 40 to 50 ft down last weekend. The biggest was 15 lbs, but we had a monster hit that broke the 40 lb leader at the knot just after that.
  16. Do not use pledge. It really works to clean them well, but chemically attacks the eisenglass, which will become brittle and yellow prematurely. I've tried 210 and Plexus. Plexus is REALLY good.
  17. Spoons? You should see the fly names, like Crazy B!TCH, LOL
  18. I live 1 mile from Lake O. I also think I should be there all the time. LOL.
  19. Go for the 7, seriously. I have the 5, the screen is a tad bit too small especially when I split screen the map and sonar. Maps are important so you can mark fish/hits and follow your trails back. It's okay in my setup because I also have a Standard Horizon GPS, so with two units I can full screen both.
  20. What part of your line gets tangled? Is it the part between the tip of your rod and the release, or is it the leader to the spoon? If it's the leader, it could easily be your going down too fast. The leader line ends up vertical and close to the cable. The spoon action twists it around the cable. Can you release it slower? You should go down more than 2 or 3 ft per second.
  21. I have an HDS Gen 1, it is really nice, powerful unit, good features, easy to use. Have had it 4 years now, no problems. The HDS Gen 2's are really nice, especially the touch screens - so easy to navigate where you want to in the system, and zoom in/out, etc. That's where I would invest.
  22. Dan, where is the braid breaking off, at the knot? What knot do you use? What brand and strength braid do you use.
  23. Since Darrell tuned the probes to be MUCH stronger, the system is great. I was out on Saturday with probes on multiple lines and the down rigger, so I knew exactly where each line was and what the temperature was. It has my vote.
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