TyeeTanic

Size 1 dipsey is the standard. Yes I almost always pull a SD behind a dipsey. I would go hang wild and bloody death, and chrome frog with screamer fly. Sorry that is 3 but would not go out withy them.

Wire dipsey - the wire hums in the water which attracts fish, as well as the turbulence from the dipsey.

There's too much stretch with mono line especially if you let out more than 100 ft. It stretches and won't pop the dipsey. Rather use wire line.

I have an easy fix. I got a few of those spray bottles with the fan attached. I either put those in the cup holders or have bought some that have the suction cups to stick on the windshield and point any direction I want. The fan on its own provides good ventilation. If it is seriously hot a few squeezes of water mist on the face and you are good to go. Total cost with suction cup holder probably $15 per bottle.

On dipsey it is enough to just keep it from creeping. For flat lines an easy tug of the line should pull the drag.

I only use 30lb fluorocarbon with my wire dipsey and have only ever snapped off once. My fault too as I had bird nested my reel and locked the drag.

Absolutely you can use a dipsey diver on the SD. This is one of my favorite setups. A dipsey diver can go from 20 ft - 110 ft deep. I use wire line on my dipseys - there's a book called Precision Trollers Guide Edition II that has graphs which tell you how much line you need to have out to get to certain depths. There's also apps for Android that can tell you that. When you mark fish on you fishfinder you can set your lines out to get to those depths. I recommend at least two different size dipseys - #1 and MAG. The #1 is good to around 70 ft, and the MAG is good to 110 ft, travelling at 2.5 mph. The flies and MC rockets that I mention in my original post is the tackle I like for salmon. Using hearing fillet is good to. Sometime's it doesn't work, and other days it's the only thing that works. You need to try different things.

I would not leave the dock without: - SD chrome frog with hammertime fly - #1 in my eyes - SD hawg wild with hawg wild fly - SD bloody death?? (purple with red/silver christmas tree pattern) and bloody death fly or purple MC rocket - SD carmel dolphin with carmel dolphin fly - SD double crush with white glow fly or white MC rocket - Pro troll 11" anything silver with glow tape, with silver MC rocket Now, that doesn't mean I don't use spoons - I generally like putting my spoons out clean (stealth presentation). Mark

Yup - that's the right lengths alright.

Are you asking how much leader between the wire and the dipsey?? If so, none. The wire connects straight to the dipsey. You will use around a 6 - 8 ft lead between the dipsey and flasher and then another 2 - 3 ft of leader between the flasher and fly/meat rig. I use 30# Seaguar Fluoro Leader.

This is the best knot for wire. It has never failed on me. I've bent open a welded ring before breaking this knot: http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm I just checked the video above - same knot!

Was that 2.5 mph GPS speed or Down Speed?

Jekyll what was your down speed to hit that deep with a #1? I don't think it is possible at 2.5 mph. Maybe at 1.5 mph.

The only thing with that much line out is tangles. I like to get deep fast to keep the lines from crossing anything as I deploy. I also use 4 dipseys so my inside dipseys are going deep and closer to the boat (which is why I prefer MAGs for my deep lines). Then I use the #1's on 3 setting to get them away from the MAGs.

For salmon fishing in Lake 0, 20# fluoro is recommended for spoons. Uni to Uni is the knot I use.

Up to around 40' deep I use #0 Up to around 60' maybe 70' deep I use #1 Below 60' I generally prefer Mags. It also depends on where you place the dipsey. For instance if it is on setting 3 and you want to get down to 60' - you are probably looking at a MAG to get there. That's where the curves come in handy.

Yeah, I was out last night and marked huge amounts of bait. More than I've ever seen. A bait ball was showing up on my screen every 5 seconds for 2 hours - and I'm not exagerating. I am almost starting to think with that much bait around the salmon will never be hungry. We will have some monsters at the end of the season! My prediction for GOSD is 43 lbs this year.

Mike, just like King Slammin says and you elude to. Sometimes the bite is off the dipseys and its good to have the copper on boards, or the riggers. Riggers are especially crucial when the bite is really deep, I'd say over 100 ft. You will have a hard time catching fish on anything else. So, if you have room on your boat for riggers and copper, I'd definitely include them in the setup. Just that over a summer, I do hear that many people get more hits on average on the dipseys - so that's a setup that you don't leave home without!

Dennis, good timing for this question. Managed to get a nice hit off the MC rocket last night. I have 3 ways of presenting the rocket. - straight off a dipsey (least action) - dispey, hot spot flasher, MC rocket (same action, but attractor with flasher. Flasher spins on axis so does not change native action of MC rocket. - dipsey, S/D, MC rocket Generally I keep the leader to the MC rocket around 4 feet. To be honest I haven't tried them closer. I am concerned about imposing too much action on it from the S/D if it gets too close. The best action is the swirl created by bending the steel spine. In terms of colors I have had almost all my hits on michael jackson (black on one side, white/glow on the other) and purple with white glow on the flip side. I do carry orange, red and blue rockets. I will be trying them out whenever I get a chance. I do know right now that Blue and White are generally hot colors based on my own experience this past week, and from what I've been hearing from others. Lastly, I sometimes put some harring bait scent along the side of the rocket. Not sure if it helps any, but if the bite is quiet, I start experimenting.

70% of my hits come off the SD/fly combo. Definitely will always have at least two of these in my spread. I also use SD/MC Rocket combo. Or dipsey straight to spoon with at least a 15 ft lead. Or dipsey SD/ spoon. As others have said, you need to know where the fish are, and set your dipsey in that range. Precision Trolling's guide Edition II has some very good charts that tell you exactly how much line you need to let out to get to a target depth.

As John and others have pointed out, you want to keep the dipseys a minimum distance away from each other both in the horizontal and vertical dimension. Having two #1 dipseys side by side for instance is more dangerous than a MAG on the inside and #1 on the outside. This also helps when you have deployed your dipseys, catch a fish on the outside line and now need to redeploy. If you use the same size dipsey as you deploy (even if it is on 3 setting) it will sit closer to the boat and sink deeper until you stop letting line out and let the drag on the dipsey take grip. MAG dipseys help get the inside line deep and quick, keeping it out of the way of an outside line being let out. Having said that, there could be benefit on keeping the two baits about 20 to 30' from one another, particularly if you are using attractors. This helps make the two lines work together to attract fish. I have created a chart for various zones of depth (depending on where the thermocline is) say 20 - 40 ft, 40 - 60 ft, 60 - 80 ft, etc. For each zone I have worked out the best arrangement of dispeys to put on the inside and outside line, and length of line out to keep them around 20 feet apart. This way once I know where the temp is I can quickly go to my guide and set my lines to exactly where I want them.

I received mine yesterday. I'm not a sponsor just someone who is very keen to get indication on my dipsey lines. The probes look fine to me. I am installing the receiver on Saturday morning and if the weather cooperates I will test it for the first time after that. There is a backlog until mid to end June at this stage. I was one of the first to order and only got mine yesterday. Now that I have it, I can't wait to get those probes wet!

This is what is important http://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glcfs.php?lake=o&ext=vwt&type=N&hr=00

I have the HDS 5 and really like it a lot. If I had more room at my helm I would get the HDS 8 for sure. The Gen 2's are nice babies.

Well if no lines in the water then let the board out first. If there's the flatline in the water already for instance because you just got a fish on the board then in my mind you have two choices. If you have a rod holder way up high say on a radar arch you can put the flat line up there and then deploy the board under this line. If not you probably have to retrieve the flatline before you redeploy the board. The problem is the flatline will be running on top of the water right behind the transom. For the board you need to let out your leader before the board hits the water. Once the board is in the water then letting it out slowly will get it to the side, but at the risk of the leader tangling first with the flatline. S really if you can't get the flatline up and above the leader, it is risky business.