TyeeTanic

John, I don't think your second post is addressing the question. I agree, if you know what you are doing you wouldn't pull lines to redeploy a diver (unless currents are crazy). But if you are starting fresh with no lines in the water what is the better way to deploy? I still say outside first for the good reasons I pointed out above.

Guys the way I would look at it is (a) do you have the experience to go and look at the right things (stringer conditions, transom, engine test, wiring) and (b) if something goes wrong what will it take to fix. (b) is the biggest issue. Let's say you are talking a bigger boat say 28' boat. If something goes wrong, it's easy to drop a couple thousand $$$ on it. So is a $300 survey a good investment? Probably yes. If the biggest issue you can forsee will cost you $500, then is a $300 survey still gonna be worth it, probably not. I always lean towards conservatism, and if I want to keep something for a while, I'd do the check, even if it was $5000 - unless you have money to throw away. A survey also gives you time to think about it, rather than get emotionally caught up in the deal and looking past problems.

And if you end up spending 30 times more than the survey fixing a broken boat, because you didn't survey, then what? That seems silly. You spend the $300 on a survey to avoid a $1,000 to $10,000 problem. And believe me $1000 is easy to spend on a boat. One other fact, boats have problems especially if they're old. So chances are the surveyor will pick up something, and inform you all the better. Not saying it will sink the deal, but at least you know what you're getting yourself into. I would never buy an old boat without a survey. Second point, not all surveyors are good. Make sure you get a good one by word of mouth - call the local marinas and get recommendations. There's a decent guy in Port Credit, his name is Wallace. If you are interested, I will PM his number to you. Lastly, agree with others, the boat should be surveyed on land, but also has to be tested in the water.

Actually I think you should let the outside diver out first. Reason being it doesn't matter how slowly you let it out, there is always much less drag on the dipsey when it is being deployed, so it will sink deeper and be closer to the boat as you let it out. So you may as well let the outside dipsey go first then give it time to grip and get out of the way. The inside dipsey can then be deployed and this will immediately sink deeper and to the inside of the boat, away from the outside line. If you do it the other way around, there is a chance that the outside diver sinks deep enough and close enough to the boat to cross the inside line and tangle. Remember all tackle stays to the center of the boat (or close) until the drag bites into the water and pushes the tackle away. So it is better to work from the outside in, or you have everything running in the middle.

In the KOTL amatuer we caught most of our fish on a spin doctor/fly combon - late April. So, I'm going to say, there are no rules. Drop down a bit of each, and a variety of colors and see what happens.

Try to work 30 - 60 fow. There should be lots of steelhead, maybe lakers at the bottom, and perhaps the kings will show up if the water warms a little more.

We're all just posting our opinions here. I understand all points of view and can't say one is better than the other. I agree all species should be promoted at some level, and for sure keep the lake trout class. However, I'd say hands down a 25 lb king is much more difficult to land than a 25 lb laker. Trout run out of steam pretty fast in the lake, so can you compare a king to a trout pound per pound. Perhaps a points system that allows more weighting on a king than a trout. The other side of it is I agree, catching a trout over 30 lbs is just insane teratory. Perhaps the scoring can start going the other way if the trout is over 30 lbs like an extra 5 points per each pound over 30?? Anyhow, maybe that will just complicate everything ... not sure. Just saying I think a king is harder to land than a trout and there should be some acknowledgment of that in the scoring.

For $300 on top of the elite. Plus a much stronger transducer signal. It works way better then the elite. Structure is very important trolling for kings. I've used both units now so can say first hand the HDS is way better value for money.

Don't need to say much more ontop of what Sk8man said. Good summary. The only thing I would add is get the 7 strand wire (smokey color) before you try anything else. 19 strand is good too, but more expensive, and the single strands might break easier.

OK, so I was a fan of the Elite 5, up until about 2 weeks ago. Got a hold of an amazing guy name Joc at Angling Outfitters, Woodstock. He went through the maps with me on the Elite series vs. the HDS series. There is a huge difference. The Elite series can only handle map cards up to 2GB in size, meaning they can't carry lots of map detail. The contours on the Canadian side are space 20 feet apart. The HDS can handle much larger map files, which support contours of 1 ft apart. This means you can see every little detail of the lake bottom and target good structure that should hold fish. Second, the transducer is more powerful, so you can pick up much more detail in the water. Basically the difference is around $300 more for the HDS. For me it is a no brainer to get the HDS. I wish I would have known that before I bought the Elite, but at least I go to trade it in for only $300 against a slightly used HDS 5. Can't wait to use it now!!!!

Will they also spool other reels for a low fee? Lol, just pushing my luck.

Nice! Now I have to pick a reel!

1) Marine is VHF. 2) You need a ROC(M) card to legal use one on the water. Note technically if you listen only, you are not "using" it. But some enforcement officials consider having it "on" as using it. So, I'd call this a grey area. 3) You cannot use a VHF anywhere on the water, on land or via a base station (fixed station) from land without a license. Note to use a fixed station on the marine frequencies the ROC(M) doesn't work, you need a special license. 4) CB is not used in marine. CB definitions and terms like "10-4" and "come in dogfish, come in" are dead give aways that a person does not have a ROC(M) license. 5) You can take a ROC(M) course in 1 Sunday afternoon and you are done, or over 3 weeks during some night on a weekday. Go online to find a local course. It is great to have, and not really all that difficult to get. It is great to be able to talk to your fishing buds on the VHF and figure out where the fishing is happening. Hope this helps.

32 GB make sure it is Class 10.

If they are 14" and under they are great to eat. Mercury is a problem in all the Great Lakes. But your body has a tolerance for mercury as long as you don't eat tons of salmon. By the way the salmon in the grocery store is probably a lot worse for you. Look up farmed salmon health on a google search.

Yvan just spoke to Ryan. We do t knowif we are going to get in on the other tightline tourney and also are just getting our feet wet with competitions. So we want to stick with the AM comp, and aren't looking for the overall right now. I will be at straight lines tomorrow so I can chat to you more about it then. Thanks for letting me know.

Yvan let me check. Ryan (knotreel on pullers) booked it with you a couple of months ago. To be honest I just wanted "in" without knowing what the best option is. Where can I read up on the differences between the two?

Krawler, it is the opposite to your suggestion, follow Dan's advice. You need to let out the outside shallow lines first, and yes shallower lines are further from the boat. Deeper are closer. The reason you do this is because when you let out a line there is much less drag so the bait sinks deeper and to the center until you stop spooling and the planer or dipsey grips the water. Only then will the lure rise and pull off to the side. If you let the deep lines out first you run the risk of the shallow lines tangling into them as the deeper lines will be closer to the center of the boat. Deploying the shallow lines first gets them out away from the center and high in the water column, so there's no risk of tangles when you deploy the deeper lines.

Yes, one of our team members did.

You will probably be able to go down to around 3 mph, which might be fast on some days and depending on direction of the current. I would easily consider the following items to slow me down in this order: - kicker, you should be able to mount it (this will save lots of gas, take hundreds of hours off your main engine) - happy troll plate. Mounts to the drive, but should be done by a professional or you may have corrosion of the drive (stainless plate vs. light metal drive). - drift sock. Drift sock will attach to a cleat on the side of your boat towards the bow, not in the back. You may need one on each side to make it easier to steer the boat. I've used all red methods.

Ivan, How do we know what teams are in for the amateur comp. We signed up "King Kongs", payment made, but are awaiting confirmation. Will you post this on the website?

Bud, that looks like a Strip Club for fishing lures. Awesome! You should make more and sell them, that is a great idea.

Don't use a swivel, a double uni knot is a much better idea. I use this to tie 20ft leads to my flea flicker.