TyeeTanic

I've been running 4 dipsies for the last 2 years. Only had a bad tangle twice. Once was too hard of a turn and the other is a mistake I made deploying the divers. If you stick to the system it works.

You're getting the logic now. The point is look at the dive charts and then decide (a) what settings you want each of your weights at, and how much line you need to let out to get to the target depth. I extracted data from the charts and came up with my own table of settings/line lengths for various target depths on my inside and outside divers. What you want to aim for is your outside diver being around 10 - 20 feet higher than the inside diver, and about 1.5 weight setting difference (say 1.0 on the inside diver and 2.5 on the outside diver). The next step is to drop a good color combination between both the inside and outside dipseys, as they work as a group (which is why you keep it only 10 - 20 feet higher).

The reason they do this is to maximize the depth of the diver. The larger the setting, the farther it goes out to the side of the boat, but then it doesn't diver as deeper. The whole point of the diver is to get depth, so it's not just about maximum horizontal seperation. You work with a separation you are comfortable with and no more than that, so you can get the divers as deep as possible - I normally use 4 dipseys and go 2.5 starboard, 1.0 starboard, 1.0 portside, 2.5 portside. That gives a 1.5 to 2.0 seperation between each diver. I feel a 3 is unnecessary on the outside divers and all I do is loose depth.

I have the elite 5 gold (standard, not dsi). I have gone to 370 ft of water and read bottom. Have you tuned your device for deep water? You can adjust the gain. But note you can't use the same settings for shallow and deep. There are presetings you can also use.I really like my unit. Easy to use and has a lot of features. I think it is the best value for money out there. And yes it tells you GPS speed. The only thing it lacks is trip distance.

That's the best site. And it is pretty accurate.

You can run SDs and flies off the riggers, but they are more productive off a wire dispey. So being that you should run spoons in your spread, by default it is better to put those on the riggers and leave the fly combos for your dipsey rods.

Green frog pattern and hammer time. Purple on dark black dot and bloody death. Hawg wild SD with hang wild fly. This year I added Carmel dolphin to the mix.

One is continuos down temp and the other is a spot test (drop and pull up). You can't compare. If you can get the x4d rather do that.

I have scotty rod holders. Biggest fish on those rod holders is a 35lb salmon, no problem.

Consistent with what everyone is saying. Put the deeper diver closer to the boat and deploy it first. Them the lighter diver then finally the board. Remember as you let things out they will generally go deeper as there is less drag on the line and equipment, think of it sinking in still water. So letting it out slow helps avoid tangles.

I use 7 strand. It has never given me problems. It is still really easy to work with. I can't justify changing to 19, and why pay the extra money for it anyhow??

I have the 30 size convectors. Good reel for the money, actually great reel for the money. It fits 1000ft of wire perfectly. The 45 is too big.

I have a fish hawk td. The best thing to have if you don't have riggers with down speed and temp. Drop it down to the bottom and raise it up, will tell you temperature of water ever 5 feet. Look for the 44-48F level and the use the precision trolling guide to determine how much wire out to get you to that depth.

Use 30 lb 7 strand wire. I use torpedo wire smoky color. Tie a quick snap ball bearing swivel to this. Connect a #1 dispey to swivel. Take 6 feet of 30lb fluoro carbon leader line + a spin doctor + 22" fluoro leader to a fly. Or Take 10 feet of fluoro leader to a spoon. Try different colors but purple, orange and green are good bets. Get yourself the Precision Trolling guide to figure out how much line to let out to get your dispey to the target depth. You want to be in 44 - 48 F water.

I have 4 power locks and 2 rodmasters. The rodmasters are easier to use but the power lock secures your rod for big hits.

Amen brother. Exactly.

NBK in green or purple Purple thunder Hawg Wild Watermelon Monkey Puke Gator Blue/Yellow Dolphin

Keep your middle open. The middle riger will play havok with fish you are trying to land! Put a rigger on each corner of the boat, and stack your rods for 4 lines on the riggers. Then dipseys off the side, and maybe a leadcore on the planer board.

I use the 20# flea flicker - have had it on the spool for 2 years now - no problems.

I think when salmon are aggressive maybe it doesn't matter so much, but when the bite slows and they start following your bait for a little while it matters a whole lot.

I got the new go pro. I'm pretty sure you can shut off the beeps. Download the manual from GoPro.com. It will tell you.

You will never get a simple answer with a question like that. My favorite spoons are: Purple Thunder Watermelon Blue Dolphin Hawg Wild NBK Green Glow NBK slayer I like to start the season with blue colors then go to greens and end up with the orange and purple colors.

Gambler got it right. Use 20 to 30 lb fluoro leader. Seagar and PLine are good brands.