TyeeTanic

We run two spin doctors per side all the time ... very few tangles if you take care of a few things. Watch the turns, and deployment of the outside rod correctly, often reduces chances of tangles.

I see no issue using a twili tip with mono ... in fact, if I had to guess, I'd say it's probably safer to use that then a typical loop style line guide ... the twili as you know puts a nice soft bend in the mono ... and it's smooth steel, so it should not abrade the mono.

I would say the best setup is a 10ft rod behind (closer to bow) an 8 ft rod (closer to stern) ... but that is not necessary. I wouldn't bother changing your 9 foot rods, but if you can get 10 ft for the back, that would be good. As others say, space them at least 24" apart on the gunwale. You want the dispey off the bow rod (10') to be running higher in the water, and farther from the boat. So typically we go 3 setting on the dipsey, and use a regular ... never a mag on this rod. For the rod closer to the stern, we would set on 1, and use either a regular or a mag diver (bigger disk). The reason you want this is when a dipsey pops with a fish bite, it will always RISE and move to the CENTER of the boat. So the outside line has to be higher, so it goes over the inside line (rod closer to stern), and not tangle up the lines. If you have the choice, deploy the outside lines first (bow rods), then the inside rods (stern rod) ... reason is, as you deploy, you're not allowing the dipsey to bite in the water ... so it has a tendency to dive deeper (think of it like it's sinking in stagnant water), and it doesn't pull to the side as much. Only once you lock the bail, will you get it to bite into the water and start pulling up and to the side. So, if you deploy the outside line (bow rod) say after the inside line ... you could get tangles. Now some of us got real good at this, and have no issues getting an outside line out while the inside line is already deployed. The trick is to let that dipsey out SLOW ... so it does bite a bit into the water and moves to the side (on 3 setting).

My condolences. Let his memory live on in what you do!!

Unfortunately with deposits, and the money at stake ... these guys have to weigh up the risks of a forced cancellation. My whole family got omicron over a week ago. This variant seems to be weak, we got a cough and a bit of nasal/head congestion ... but it wasn't that bad, we almost carried on our normal routine ... it would be at worst like an old head cold. I thought this variant was a blessing in disguise ... if it builds immunity, than this is the variant you'll want to get of the choices out there! Anyhow, I think everyone is freaking out again ... and society needs to chill a little bit, especially over Omicron.

I misread the post I was replying to ... sorry I was reading fast, and didn't realize we had switched to braid line ... the OP spoke about using mono line ... and I'm concerned about getting down that deep with mono, even with the weight ... there's gonna be tonnes of drag. Yes, I agree if you have a MAG ring on a dipsey, or weighted ring on a diver, and using braid or wire line ... you can get to below 85'.

A 12 lb weight on a rigger has about 40 ft to 50 ft of blowback, when you try and hit 100ft to 120 ft deep. (So you need 150 ft of line out to get 100 ft down). How much blowback you think a 7 oz (little more than half pound weight) weight will have? Answer ... tonnes, you'll have a tough time reaching 100 ft without the right diver on it to assist.

In the middle of summer, wires often target 80' to 100' deep, on Lake Ontario. I don't think slide divers are gonna cut it. Wire divers and riggers is basically you're only options.

Yeah for sure. We often have 300 ft of wire out ... with mono, you'd never get to the same depth, even if you let out all 700 ft. You'd probably snap on a heavy torpedo weight to help with the depth, and have 400 ft of line out. Then when a nice fish takes out another 200' to 250' of line ... you'll start messing your underpants knowing you can see the bottom of the spool. Now, if you want to do shallow water fishing ... sure, you can put on a heavy torpedo and have say 150' to 200' out ... say target top 30' of water ... it might work ... still, I wouldn't want less than 400' to 500' of mono line on the reel. Everyway you look at it ... much better to have braid than mono, and even better to have wire, given the sink rate and smaller diameter (which allows you to put that much line on the reel, often 1000' is the go to length of wire on a reel).

What reel are you going to put a minimum of 700 ft of mono on? Not your old wire ones ... that's for sure. I'd much rather use braid then mono. You won't get good sink rate and you will have a heck of a time popping a dipsey when you have 200 ft or more of that mono line out. Anyhow, I think people use 20 lb mono, because there isn't a real around that could hold enough 30 or 40 lb mono ... at least not one that doesn't cost a fortune.

I wouldn't want to use a 16 ft boat on Lake Ontario. I've seen the weather turn quick enough.

Everything has it's challenges. Solar energy in the desert works, until the panels are coated in dust. Then you have to bring water into the desert to clean the panels ... plus no way to recycle solar panels, it is a major contaminant in landfills. Nuclear for now is the way to go ... minimal waste (although highly radioactive) ... but we can solve that with a deep geological repository ... or send capsules of waste to the moon.

Nuclear fission was not a "possibility" in the 1800's. Nuclear fusion will be possible in the near future. Sustainable fusion for 30 seconds long has been demonstrated just this past month. The event is held suspended by magnets, so the high temperature of the core is not in direct contact with any materials.

So, there's two suggestions I can offer: 1) we tie a boca grip to a rope. When you're finished removing the hook, you clip the fish onto the boca grip and drop it into the water behind the boat, attached to the rope (which is tied to your boat cleat). You carry on, while the fish is "dragged" through the water by your boat (at 2 mph or so). This has an amazing revival rate, as fresh water is sent over their gills. When fish looks like it is fully active (takes about 2 to 3 minutes) ... pull the line in, release the boca, and good bye to a healthy fish. 2) in terms of the net, and avoiding bad tangle ups, I think one thing is to tie up the net material. I don't have an imagine of it, but see in this photo, how the guy is holding the net back onto the pole, you can do the same, except with a clip ... the clip is worthwhile when your net has a very long (often telescopic) pole. It prevents the net from draggin back towards the fish as the boat is still moving, and getting a nasty tangle up. Makes for a clean fish netting excercise ... and once the fish is in the net, the clip releases and the fish easily enters the center of the net. I used a magnetic latch to do this, one end hooked into the net, and the other end quick-tied to the post. https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Fly-Fishing-Magnetic-Net-Hanging-Buckle-Magnet-Net-Gear-Fishing-Tool/PRD0RQ764062OX4