Chas0218

There is a bowtech dealer over in williamson I started with a PSE and switch to bowtech shortly after and have never looked back. Right now I shoot a bow that is 5 years old and shoots just as nice as the newer style bows. My wife upgraded to my old bow (2006 Tribute) and I shoot a 2007 Tribute best bows ever made IMHO. I wouldn't be afraid of Bass Pro shops if you go to during their fall hunting classic you can get a heck of a deal on new bows. I would recommend your daughter starting with some that has a large poundage range but don't limit yourself to 1 brand. Don't spend tons of money on a youth bow, you're better off buying something a little cheaper and once she builds up her strength buy her a nice bow (should last her the rest of her hunting career). Also for new shooters make sure it has a larger brace height somewhere 7.5"+ it will be much more forgiving and allow small mistakes in form. My sister-in-law started with the mission but is out growing that bow very fast. Best thing about newer bows is the ability to change draw length with only an allen wrench. Best advice I can give you is to do a lot of research before going out and buying a new bow and DON'T BUY INTO THE SPEED GIMMICK! You loose a lot of forgiveness when you increase your speed.

Mine will let some water into the boat from the transom but never had an issue unless it is rough seas and backing up.

Most of your auto parts stores carry it auto zone, advance auto. We used to run it in our old tractors. It is because the valve seats aren't hardened so the lead acts like a lubricant so when the valves shut they don't wear the valve seats out.

The jumpy part is tough. I use the 0-50 digital berkley scale and it seems accurate. It will always be off a little from the tournament scales.

It all depends on the boat. If it wasnt designed for self bailing floors there was probably a reason. I would recommend what most people call a camping cover which basically covers the entire rear of the boat keeping most if not all water from coming in the boat when not in use. Most are just snap on and snap off.

Dont get me wrong if I were dropping 20k on a boat you bet your ass it would be surveyed but I figure anything under 5k you should be able to unload it for close to what you bought it for.

I bought my fiberglass boat and trailer for $800 condition unknown added a used outboard for $1000. When we pulled the original motor off the transom we checked around the bolts for dry rot and she was clean as a whistle (no punky wood or funny smells). I have had the boat going on 3 seasons and have almost 2x if not closer to 3x as much invested in electronics and running gear than what I paid for the boat. If you keep your wits about you and check everything out with a fine tooth comb you will be good to go.

1) Knock on the stringers if they have a nice solid hit and NOT a thud sounds the stringers should be ok. Also look at the motor mount bolts that go into the stringers if they look loose grab a wrench and try to tighten them if they keep turning then they are rotted. Stuff your head in the bilge and literally sniff around, if you smell something similar to mold then it probably is. 2) You can still find parts but they are becoming harder to get. Your general maintenance stuff is still readily available. 3) Yup 4) Get a water test, offer to drive it to the nearest water source maybe that will change his mind.

I have Cabela's depth masters in 8' Medium action with magda 30s spooled with 20lb. Power Pro and tipped with 4' of 12lb or 15lb Seaguar Fluoro. These also double as my walleye rods.

Majority of your batteries with the exception of optimas and interstate are made by the same manufacturer. I have 2 everstarts 1 is 2 years old and the other is 3 years old. Hold a charge and work great. If you maintain the batteries in the off season any battery should last years without issues.

My buddy won it with a nice 12 pounder!

The Cabelas rods are actually quite nice for the price. I have been running 6 depthmaster rods (8' downrigger) for 3 seasons and they have managed to stay together even after my buddies have shut them in the livewell lid twice, and between the tailgate and tonneau cover. Those rods are inexpensive and are of great quality.

For my surface speed I use my gps, it is basically the same thing. Down speed can be anything while your ground speed is usually constant whether from a paddle or GPS.

You and me both. I run the 9' Okuma dipsy rod as my wire rods. I run the Okuma 8'6" copper/leadcore for my braid they are stiffer than the 9' and were heavily discounted.

Sounds good. Let me know.

You and me both.

I wish I would have seen your location sooner. I live in Lindley I could have come over an taken a look.

That year motor should be fine running either oil. The issue is when you get pre 1986 with the non roller cam shafts. Without the regular motor oil and high zinc additive you will wear the lobes off the cam.

Sounds like she was a little tired.

Has your buddy looked into getting it rebuilt or is the case shot?