Chas0218

Generally speaking all GM style motors from 1986 and newer utilized 2 things. One being roller lifters instead of the older style flat tappet, and HEI (High Energy Ignition) electronic ignition. In marine applications it might have taken a little longer to convert to HEI/electronic ignitions as they obviously make fewer boat motors than car motors. Also there are different fire standards in which boat ignitions must fall under compared to cars. These standards are to keep boats from blowing up from the leak of fuel vapors into the bilge.

They sell Pertronix kits that convert points to solid state ignition. http://www.pertronix.com/ I believe Mallory makes a kit as well.

It seems to work well giving me what i think is the correct temp and down speed. It will be going onto it's 2nd season without any issues. It works great when stacking. I haven't tried it on an electric rigger but I don't think it would make any difference.

Sorry it is torpedo wire. That is my fault, wrong company. Here is the link. https://www.torpedodivers.com/scart/product_details.asp?ItemNum=ZP0010

Used motors run about $10 per a horsepower and new motors run around $100 per a horsepower.

Are you running one of troutman or atommik?

I am south of Corning in the Susquehanna river area. About 30 mins. south of Watkins.

Near me the water was very high and flowing extremely fast no way I would have waded out there.

Alright I will try what you guys are suggesting this year. I figured I was over thinking it but was worth the effort to get some other opinions on the matter. So is it safe to say most if not all you guys fish above the probe rigger depth (once you find the correct temp)?

I am running a blacks style release but is modified to work with the type of cable. It is setup via blood run recommendation. I was thinking of trying one of the coated cables to see if that made a difference but I am getting speed readings that "look" correct compared to my gps boat speed. My first season on the lake 2 years ago I didn't have a down speed unit and kept my gps speed right around 2.5 mph and boated a good amount of fish. unfortunately until I caught a fish I had to put my spread all over the water column because I had no clue where the thermocline or temps were unless I could hear a report over the radio. Last year was my first year with the probe so I am still learning it was just weird seeing my rigger cables at so much of an angle to get the correct speed. I did notice there is more blow-back with the probe rigger than the rest. I'm not so much concerned about whether there is a speed difference with the blow-back but the actual depth the probe is running compared to the line counter on the rigger. I realize that it will be higher in the water column but the amount higher is my biggest concern I would like to get the rest of my riggers all near the same spot. Also I was wondering if the majority of you guys run some sort of paint or coating on your rigger balls? I read that running some sort of coating will help lower the likely hood of giving off voltage. I'm not sure if this makes a difference with manual riggers on a fiberglass boat but still would like some input.

My riggers max are 20 lbs. according to cannon. I was thinking in the 12-15 range but dont want to over do it mostly because they are manuals. After the 10th time of coming back up in a day it gets tiring. Watching green horns switching arms in the first 50' is quite a show. Sent from my thinking car!

The deepest I fish is usually 100-130 fow as the run to deeper is just too far from my port. Sent from my thinking car!

So I'm running the moor sub troll with the Torpedo wire copper-stainless downrigger wire. I hear everyone talk up the down speed units but it seems I have caught more fish without the unit in the water than with it in. What is the best way to figure out if the unit is reading the correct speed? Also how much blow back do you guys get with the units? I was thinking of running heavier balls mine are only 10lb fish weights. Sent from my thinking car!

I have it on my dvr, I watched last season too. Great sore and neat seeing all these guys and teams. Neat tournament setup with the fish. Sent from my thinking chair...

I realize Furuno is top notch but having the ability to view "Down vision" is really nice if you are a multi-species angler.

Panther marine makes a large variety of brackets. http://www.marinetechproducts.com/pages/Brackets,SpacersPlates/

All i use are Okuma products they are top notch in my book. Rods are quality but won't break the bank.

3" number 6's for 20 gauge and 3" number 5's for 12 gauge. The pellet numbers are closer between the 2 gauges this way. Also 20 gauge number 6's are easier to find.

I have used fine sand paper and wet sanded the area. Once done buff the spot out and good as new. They are really tough. I had some on my 81' and it took a lot of time and patients but they came out. I have tried a bunch of solvents and nothing worked for me. My spots were probably 20+ years old.

The eye bite was hard all over the lake last year. I was up north near the St. Lawrence and only boated 3 on Saturday and 2 on Sunday.

I run 30 lbs. PowerPro braid all year round just change leaders. I run 8' 10lbs. fluorocarbon leader. The 30lbs. PowerPro doubles as my salmon setup.