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Last year I had mine off and on at least 6 times, till I admitted defeat. I put the boat in forward position did everything by the book still had no foreword gear when motor started up. Finally I took it over to the mechanic across the bay from Henchens marina he knew right away he was 90% sure. He asked me if I had it apart I said no, was it rebuilt I said. He said this happened to him about 16 years ago with a new Merc unit, there’s a piece that can go either way inside, that will not allow the lower unit to go into foreword gear. Got a call a few hrs. later it’s ready and yes that part was in backwards. $150 later we are back on the water.

Yes you need a 1/4” 9/16 socket to remove the brass nut on the shift cable a 3/8 drive is to thick and it won’t fit on the nut on the right side due to the lower unit is drilled to close to the side. One of Merc’s better ideas.

Man you know it Les old saying goes “ain’t like it used to be”

I absolutely love the Atlantic’s a more beautiful fish is hard to find. In my eyes a brownie with a big kype lower jaw with the bright orange belly with well pronounced spots is hard to beat also, along with a little native 4” brookie caught on a fly rod. JMO.

What pound test do you guys use for brown bears?? I just bought a $$thousand dollar pen reel off eBay. I figured if I use my tree stand safety strap I could snap that to the reel chains, and around a tree close to the river. Then I should be golden I’m still gonna bring my 458 mag Incase he spools me!! I can’t run like I used to

What year is your ride I’ll shoot ya the entire start to finish seloc manual how to. Is it a Merc or omc. I’ll do to your phone that way you have it right with you, it sounds way worse than it is. Being a poor honky tonk I learned the hard way

What helped me was I heated the bellow up on the end with a heat gun till it was warm, and I put the transom end on first then I lifted the outdrive out of the way to do that. Then used 1 clamp to hold it. Then I left the outdrive down and got it started and kept working it back till it was against either shoulder or notches, there’s something I remember that let’s you know when it’s right?? If you do the shifter bellow which I highly recommend. Take the little wire keeper off the Allen head out of the fork take cable loose up top and pull the cable out of the cable casing. Don’t remove the outer casing, then feed the cable through the old casing, then tread out the casing from the lower housing and pull it up over your new cable now feed your new casing over your new cable, this creates a path for your cable housing to follow, if you don’t do it this way you will be at your dealer having the shift cable installed. Remember how your shift boot came off and replace the boot in the same manner it came off

Now that I see it I see that little piece of spring steel that’s defiantly the shift interrupter switch on the left of that cam looking like piece that has those bolts going through. Is it possible that the bolt length or the nuts rubbed a hole on the hose or the unit??

Yea buddy, that’s going to be a knuckle buster, cussing some terminology some never heard before, I think I used the F’ bomb so many times I almost past out!!!! Till I had my rack back in. I also rebuilt mine along with my trim cylinders. Then I went to install the assist cylinder in. Should of waited till I was in a fresh state of mind OOH to answer your question I enlarged the pic as big as I could, it could be your shift interrupter, with the wires coming off of it. Whatever you do don’t break it or loose it. They don’t make them anymore. I had to fabricate a hole new plate into that area because they sell a whole plate with a different style interrupter on it.

I did mine, be prepared to bleed, swear like a sailer!!! I did it with out all the fancy tools. Took me about 3 hours to install them and about 1 1/2 hrs to remove the old ones and clean up the areas that the new ones are going to reside on or in. I also used the glue they recommend it also makes for a wiener sliding substance that will help you get them on to snap into position and attach the hose clamps that hold the bellows on. Just remember you have to be able to get on those clamp heads. I didn’t put them in the exact same spot. I put them in areas I could reach with the tooling I had, which was a 1/4” ratchet and extension with a swiveling sockets or a universal socket. Best of luck it can be done!!!

Welcome aboard CF, this is the greatest site that happened!! Great bunch of guys/gals, no such thing as a stupid question, or ask to many questions!!! There are so many different walks of life that belongs to LOU that you will get professional answers to what ever you need to know!! Provided it has to do with fishing or hunting. Good luck and tight lines come this season on the ice or from shore or from a boat!!

That's very impressive!! Especially the second thread down on the EFI motor, somehow they shaved 37#'s off in weight!! My old 15hp 2 stroke weighed 78lbs and my new to me 2007 Merc. weighs exactly the same as the top thread new Merc with a carburetor, 115lbs that's a difference of 37lbs from the 2 stroke to the carb 4 stroke. That might not sound like a lot but when it's cantilevered out 2ft or so on my swim platform bracket made for kickers really makes ya scratch your head. I will add another swim platform brace directly under the motor and bigger and thicker aluminum angles from the transom to the swim platform itself. I've walked across the platform a few times myself just to test it out with the 2stroke motor and it didn't move!! Just for peace of mind I'm going to add extra support!! I don't think I want to know the price of that EFI motor/electric trim . Thanks for the info Wallyandre!! This will create a whole new dog eat dog fight in the small motor world!!! LOL