Thun

Trying to make it fun for my wife, I took her on a mackeral fishing charter, thinking there'd be a lot of action and fish caught. It wasn't long before she was over the side heaving to the song on the boats PA, "Don't Rock The Boat, Don't Tip The Boat Over". I tried hard not too laugh but to this day she still reminds me from time to time that I'm a jerk for laughing at her.

Check this out http://www.thecasterschronicle.com/2013/08/12/brandon-palaniuk-scores-bassmaster-elite-series-victory-in-new-york/

If this webpage is accurate, 15 lb test Berkeley Big Game has the same diameter, .015, as Blood Run 30 lb test wire. http://www.mels-place.com/Contents/ABCs_and_Goodies/Line_Diameters/line_diameters.htm Using a line counter, I'm going to fill up my spool with the 15# Berkley and then rip off 1000' to make room for the wire.

The initial pull on your drag is called "start up" and the reason I prefer my drags greased with Cal's. Many out here disagree and that's OK. It's my opinion that greased drags could only help these sticky Convectors. I've posted this out here in the past but I believe it's relevant to the thread. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=47.0

Different reel but same problem (i think). Those belleville washers "()" are bent like to determine the ramp rate of the drag curve. Some are configured like this, "()", some like this, "((". Their configuration determines the amount of range the wheel (or star) can be ramped down or tweaked. Does that make sense? The schematics calls them drag spring washers, #609. I recommend sending them out to Tuna's. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4988.0

A couple of other things you could do before servicing them is to make sure the line leveler or guide is in sync with the line as it comes off the spool. If the line coming off the spool is at one end and the line leveler is at the other, it puts a lot of strain on the drag. (Might cost you the fish of a lifetime too). If that doesn't help, you could check the Belleville washers and make sure they're oriented correctly. Like this "()". There's a picture, 74th down in this tutorial. The linecounter problem seems to be a common issue with Okuma reels. China! This tutorial should be almost identical to the older 30 D's. If all else fails, Tuna Tom's... http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=774.0

Two of the four drag washers in the Convectors aren't carbon fiber drags and probably the problem. They can be replaced with Penn Ht-100 Carbon Fiber drags, part #56-440.

Fish307 has them on sale for $88.99 http://www.fish307.com/planers/

I hate thieves! I wonder if a game trail camera hidden somewhere on our boats would catch a picture of a thief in the act?

An anchor ball floating in front of your bow would alert me that your at anchor. And you could use an anchor retrieval system to float your anchor when you're done fishing. Hand lining a heavy anchor 100' down could be a back breaker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40nz7HVwcOw

The few times I've tried to sharpen my knives, I think I made them worse, maybe I'll try again. Thanks for the info.

Should you ever hook into a muskie fishing alone, those Down East rod holders will double as a net holder, keeping the net and fish in the water while you unhook it for a healthy release.

These are nice too https://amishoutfitters.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=102&zenid=4693166d2cd3661fdb51d205117e1441

Down East Salties are awesome rod holders for divers. I've used the double clamp-ons with divers and are now converting them to bolt ons. They're not pretty like some others but they work awesome. http://down-east.com/website_003.htm

My favorite 11" paddle is the OKI...although I've never caught a fish with it, it looks good on the boat! http://66.51.163.9/fishing/collection/index.cfm/hierarchy/1/depth/2/finalLevel/2/category/8/level1/Dodgers%20%26%20%20Flashers/startRow/41/