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muskiedreams

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  1. muskiedreams
    If you are digging bottom while trolling or jigging bottom where everything is crusted with zebra mussels, the flouro will be damaged by the zebra mussels. This may cause you to leave a lure in the mouth of a musky. It can kill the fish and you will be out an expensive lure. Not to mention not catching the fish. That will not happen with a solid steel leader. If you do decide to use floro, you must check for abrasions often and replace the leader when it occours. Some say that musky teeth can bite off floro and I think it is very possible. They will not use it under any circumstances. The brand of floro you use can also make a difference (I beleive Seaguar is considered to be the best). I mostly use steel but under extremely clear water conditions (especially shallow and bright conditions) I might consider using floro with great care. But I do catch fish with steel in clear water conditions. Muskies are gennerally not as warry as trout.
  2. muskiedreams
    ohiobones, I found it and viewed it before you added it to your post. There are some idiots out there that you just cannot educate. Maybe he has brain damage from eating too many perch. Hopefully he will be procecuted and will learn that he will have to pay the consequences for his actions. Just a warning about the video and comments on YouTube. There is some language that some might find offensive or inapproptiate.
  3. muskiedreams
    I came across this and thought everyone would get a kick out of it. A mink steals a buuhead from a fisherman's bucket on Webster Pier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQcqflC1dZE
  4. muskiedreams
    Anchoring from the stern is dangerous, especially with a small boat in heavy waves or current. The anchor should have been on the bow.
  5. muskiedreams
    Lively1, First of all, excuse me if I am teling you some details that you are already aware of. If you have a separate starting battery and deep cycle battery for bowmount and or downriggers, it might be best to connect the fishfinder to the deep cycle battery. What is happening is the voltage "at" the fishfinder is dropping below the threshold required to run it. There are several possible things that can be causing the problem. It can also be a combination of causes. 1) Weak battery. If it is not at full charge, or not able to hold a full charge due to age and/or internal fault, when you start the motor it will draw the voltage lower while starting. 2) Too many things running off the same battery while the motor is not running and/or the motor charging system may not have enough charging power to bring the battery to full charge during the time it is running. 3) If charging system of motor is not charging the battery when it is running. 4) Drop in voltage between the battery and the fish finder. This can be caused by poor (or corroded) connections between the battery and the fish finder. It can be fuse connections, battery connections, crimp connections of wires to terminals, switches and/or connectors. Inadequate wire size, possibly in combinations with length of wire and what other accessories are connected to the same wire. I would check it out in the following order. 1) Make sure the battery is fully charged and the water level in all of the cells is full. If not, top off with distilled water. Then check the condition of all the cells with a hydrometer. They are inexpensive at an auto parts store. Moderate to poor indication on any of the cells indicates the battery should be replaced. 2) Measure the voltage on the battery with everything off and engine not running (it should be about12.5 to 13 volts). Then measure it with the motor running. It should be a volt or two higher, which will indicate that the motor charging system is working. 3) If no problems are found from 1 and 2 above, check and clean all connections between battery and fishfinder. Make sure all connections are tight. Clean metal surfaces with scotch brite pad, emery cloth, or sand paper. This includes fuse contacts. Shiny metal is clean. You can use contact cleaner or WD 40 for connectors you cannot manually clean. Any connectors that are questionable, should be replaced. When installing new connectors to wires, make sure the wire is not oxidized or dull looking. Hope I was helpful. Good luck!!
  6. muskiedreams
    Brent, Nice fish for Waneta. I see it has the left ventral fin clipped. Are you participating in the angler diary study? If not you can call 585-226-5343 to get on board.
  7. muskiedreams
    Nice one Adam!!!
  8. muskiedreams
  9. muskiedreams
    I know a couple guys that went further up recently for a week. They did casting, jigging and draging tubes. They got a 55 on a Bondy, a 49, a few others in the 40s and a 35.
  10. muskiedreams
    Nice Chad !!! That looks like a contender for the IGFA C&R record. I wouldn't donate the lure. It looks like it has produced a lot of action in the past.
  11. muskiedreams
    Probably the St John River and tributaries. There is a musky derby (kill to enter) in Fort Kent every year. It is going on this weekend. Here are some links. http://www.fortkent-muskie.com/index.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBQoAs4gvRM&feature=related
  12. muskiedreams
    I think there has been a few here and there over the years. It might be a good question to ask on the trout and salmon forum.
  13. muskiedreams
    If you have to make an adjustment, it looks like you might be able to move the boat forward an inch or two so the back of the rear roller is even with the back of the transom. You will have to move the winch stand forward to do it. If you need more tongue weight after that (as measured like in the You Tube video with full tank of gas and all equipment) it might be better and easier to move the axle and not the rollers. You have to make sure the scale is well supported as if it is on a floor to make sure you get a good measurement. When jacking up the rig, it will help to have it connected to the tow vehicle to help stabilize it for safety.
  14. muskiedreams
    I wouldn't move the rear rollers forward on the bracket. I think those holes are for other configurations (possibly with a heavier boat) where another set of rollers can be added.
  15. muskiedreams
    I think every boat and trailer combination is going to take a different approach to adjustment. While changing the position of the boat on the trailer may work, you also have to consider if it will change the support of the boat significantly. Since two extra batteries and a 15hp kicker motor was added to my boat (which is on a roller trailer), I positioned the boat on the trailer as far forward as possible so the back of the rear roller is even with the back of the boat when it is cinched tight at the winch stand. The position of the winch stand can be adjusted on the tongue beam to accomplish this. I still had to move the axle back to get an acceptable tongue weight. On my trailer, the axle is attached to springs which are mounted to spring holding brackets, which are attached to the trailer frame with U bolts. All I had to do was jack the trailer up and support it on jack stands (blocks can be used instead) behind the axle so it doesn't cause the tongue to lift. I marked the position of the axle on the trailer frame, loostened the U bolts and then moved the axle back, then lowered it back down and checked the weight again. I was careful to make sure I moved the axle the same distance on both sides to keep the axle square with the trailer. Repeated until I had an accepable tongue weight. It is recomended to be about 6% of total weight with full tank of gas and all boating equipment. Keep in mind that when you go on a trip, to pay attention to what you load in the boat in terms of tackle, coolers and other gear and how it is distributed. I try to put the heavier gear in the tow vehicle, especially on long trips. You will have to look at your trailer configuration to see what is involved in changing the position of the axle. If there is wiring or brake lines you will have to deal with that as well. Also I found out quite a number of years later after dealing with damage to the keel of the boat at the single middle and single front rollers that supported the boat at the keel, that the damage was due to the front of the boat bouncing on the rollers. I have since attributed that to the fact that a lot of extra weight was added to the back which cause the weight balance of the boat on the trailer to be shifted toward the rear. I now use a rachet strap to cinch the front of the boat down to the trailer at the bow ring and I no longer have that problem. The boat must be "one" with the trailer when going down the road. Here are some links that may help and if you google "adjusting boat trailer tongue weight" you will find other helpful links on the sublect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJVjK3a1IXA http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014416.html
  16. muskiedreams
    Most people I know use 80lb Power Pro. How tight the drag should be could be subject for arguement. I prefer to set a light drag to the point where you might have to tighten it to reel the lure in while trolling. The thougt being, if the drag is tight and the fish just has the lure in its mouth with no hooks engaged and it feels too much resistance, the fish can just open its mouth and let the lure go before you have a chance to grab the rod. Plus with a lot of pressure on the rod holder, it will be tougher to get the rod out of the holder and can possibly break a rod or rod holder if it is very tight and the fish is pulling hard. With the drag set lighter, the fish will be less inclined to let go before you get the rod in your hand. Then you can thumb the reel and give it some good jerks to set the hook which will be more effective in setting the hook than heavy drag. Once you have done that you can always increase the drag to fight the fish. There will always be some hits where the fish clamps down hard and you still may not be able to get a hook set but I feel this way gives you a better chance of that. I'm not sure about the size of the hooks on those lures. Maybe someone else can ring in on that. If they are smaller than desirable, putting larger hooks on and or bending them out a little may also increase chances of a good hook set. And of course making sure the hooks are as sharp as possible.
  17. muskiedreams
    Maybe a pink lure will work. or
  18. muskiedreams
    I used to get some decent LMB casting Fat Free Shads and similar lures along the weed lines where it drops to patchy weeds. There would also be an occasional walleye mixed in. Plastic worms work around docks and along edges of paths cut in weeds in front of docks.
  19. muskiedreams
    So does anyone have a service manual for this motor?
  20. muskiedreams
    To compete with International you have to just about live and sleep on the water.
  21. muskiedreams
    I would have to see other pictures. Preferably one with measuring device. Since he is holding it with his arms straight out it will look larger in a photo depending on the camera and how close the shot was taken from. Also he would have to be very strong to hold an 80lb fish with his arms straight out. It still looks like a nice fish but the size is inconclusive. It could be a mid to upper 40in fish. I doubt it was photoshoped but the way the shot was taken, could make it look much larger than it is.
  22. muskiedreams
    I ended up buying a used 2003 Trailblazer with about 124k miles. Same year as the other one but it is the reg length instead of EXT. I will hopefully break even after needed repairs. I repaired the neon third brake light by inserting LEDs which I got at Advance Auto for $24. I replaced the front and rear stabilizer links myself. It needs one front hub because of faulty ABS speed sensor which I might replace myself if I am able to remove the big nut. It also needs ball joints and front diff pinion seal which I will have done by a mechanic. Oh, and the CD player doesn't work and there is no sound in rear (haven checked to see if there are speakers). I may just have to live with that. You can't just replace it with a used one without having a dealer program it for the vehicle because of the security system. That could be a 1 hr charge for 10min of work plus the cost of a used radio if I can find one.
  23. muskiedreams
    I think the problem is either the stator or the power pack. I need to get a service manual to try to determine which it is. I don't want to replace either part without being relatively certain it is the problem. I hope it is the power pack because it is a lot less expensive and tougher to replace. I think your motor might be different than mine. Mine was made by OMC but I beleive later in the 90s they were made by Susuki.
  24. muskiedreams
    IGFA has a catch and release catagory but you have to measure it on the official measuring device which you have to purchase and have on hand at the time of the catch. There also certain rules and procedures you have to follow to be considered for a record.
  25. muskiedreams
    Nice!!
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