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LakerTaker

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Posts posted by LakerTaker

  1. Do you use vertical rod trees? They help keep things separated. When pulling core, things sometimes don't look pretty with your boards (compared to running flatline cranks, etc). Tattle flags might lay down, etc. As long as they still do their job and take the line away from the boat, they should be fine. Moving the weight forward will help.


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  2. Dave from Cisco knows what good customer service is. I've placed a few custom request orders to refurb some of my rod holders - and will be placing more - he's always been very accommodating. I have around 17 Cisco rod holders and I use Traxstech track (only because I already had the track before buying Cisco). I've tried them all and Cisco is what has stayed on my boats.


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  3. thanks I will try that. yes I can see those types of spots on my fishfinder which has charts.


    You are welcome. Creating flash is key. Big flashers, dodgers, or cowbells with a spin n glow or peanut about 10 to 15 feet behind your ball and bounce the bottom. Let your rigger go till it touches, then you can either lift it a short click on your 'up' switch or let it stay there and bounce. Flash is almost more important than what is on the end of your line, as lakers are attracted to schools of baitfish. The spin n glow is an added bonus for them when they come in to check it out. Lakers are short biters, they don't necessarily demolish a lure like salmon do, that's why the Gambler design works so well. The 6 lakers I kept on Friday had nothing in their stomachs!!! I was expecting to see smelt.


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  4. Ok, so if I am on Lake Ontario, and strike out with Salmon so I want to try for Lakers to save the day, what depth should I troll at? I see I need to be on the bottom, but, as a starting point, what fow is a good place to start? I have never seen any fish on the bottom on my screen after trolling hundreds of miles the last two summers.

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    Generally you want to find wide flat spots in the bottom contour. The contour lines on your GPS map, if you use one, will be really far apart. This presents the best situation to touch bottom with your downrigger balls. I generally target 70 to 120 FOW. It's even better if you can find a flat that drops deeper right next to it. That's where you might pick up a 10+ pound laker. I fish on Lake Huron, but assume the same technique could be used on Lake O.


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  5. I love my Scotty pinch pads I almost traded them for blacks but so glad I didn't because of the long leader you can see when you've got a shakers on easy and once I had them broken in they released on most fish once you learn how deep to place the line depending on running spoons or flashers


    Good point, yeah I can see them shaking with the Scotties. I will try placing the line more shallow in the pad.


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  6. I generally use Scotty and Offshore pinch pad releases, and yes about half of the Lakers don't release. I will look into Chamberlains too, thanks for the info. I have some Blacks, but haven't tried them. About 10 years ago I fished Kings on Lake Michigan (I've since moved further north) and we would use Big Jon rubber band releases. They work really nice and you can buy different tension rubber bands. We would just buy the bands at an office supply store, but Big Jon also sells them directly. Big Jon is a Michigan company.

    IMG_4545.JPG


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  7. I prefer the Okuma Convectors and their all-aluminum Cold Water reels over the Accudepths and Sealines. I've owned model 47 and 57 Accudepths (had 8 of them, I believe) and had line counter and non-line counter sealines. The Okumas are smoother on the retrieve and have large, comfortable handles. Yes, they may be a heavier reel, but they feel more robust and have better gear boxes, in my opinion. I sold all my Daiwa reels about 7 years ago and replaced them with the Okuma CV series. I now have size 15, 20, and 30. I've downsized since my early days of fishing, and prefer smaller reels now. For wire I would recommend the CV45D. That being said, I have friends who prefer the Daiwa product because they are lighter and perhaps more sensitive. Comes down to personal preference and what you are comfortable with cost-wise.


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  8. I've found that being patient when you start out is key. Things can get frustrating quick if you keep fishing with not much success. If you have a friend or acquaintance you could go with to learn the ropes, that would help a lot. If not, keep reading this forum and check videos on YouTube. Almost everything I have, I've bought used, with the exception of some terminal tackle and lures. My cannon electrics cost $35 each at a garage sale. All my rod holders are used too, and I am always finding deals for 50% or less off retail. A lot of good suggestions have been offered here regarding lures and flashers to start with. I second all those. And remember, one cannot have too many fishing lures (or rod holders).


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  9. IMG_4500.JPG

    Well I'm a believer. Did some testing on Lake Trout today on Lake Huron (after no success with Kings early AM). Ran 4 leadcore lines on boards with spoons, and two downrigger lines off the back. We bounced downrigger balls off the bottom on a 110 FOW flat, and ran two spin and glow set-ups 12 feet back. One side had a standard green spin and glow with a trash can dodger. The other side had a Gambler Green Monster Magnum Spin and Glow with Confusion 5/0 cowbells. In less than 2 hours we caught 5 lakers on the Gambler rig and 3 on the standard set-up. Nothing on the leadcore. I like the fact that the cowbells don't pull very hard, as compared to some old school cowbells I use. Hook rate was 100%. Very foggy this morning with rollers, 50 Yd visability.


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  10. Thanks Laker Taker!

    You're welcome. I talked to a couple 'almost pro' walleye fisherman and they are either using CV, Coldwaters, or LCAs...in the smaller sizes. Also popular right now in the walleye community are the Okuma telescoping rods, they will fit in rod lockers. I don't have any, I just use my downrigger rods. I just purchased 2 Cabelas 9 foot medium action rods (18.99 each) for my spinning reels. Whuppin' Sticks. Very nice rods for the money!!! I've seen guys use these for surf fishing.


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  11. I received my GAMBLER rigs today in the mail. Outstanding product and customer service. Looking forward to testing these on Lake Huron lake trout. Will be buying more here. Thanks Brian! -David from Michigan.


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  12. (Note, I'm fishing the St Mary's river system and bays along Superior and Huron). For walleye I use Okuma Convector CV15D and CV20D with 8ft-6" downrigger rods. My favorite rod is the cheap yellow Eagle Claw. Our Dunhams sells them for $20. For line I use green or clear Trilene XT 17lb mono with a 12lb seaguar fluoro leader. I also rig up reels with 3 and 5 color leadcore. To mix things up I will run 1 or 2 spinning reels with 20 pound power pro braid. I have found over the years that I prefer smaller reels (the 15 and 20 size). I like the robustness of the CV series, while many of my friends like the sensitivity of the LCAs.


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  13. my fish hawk is on the other side of the outboard and I asked fishhawk if they would interfere and they said no, and it does this even when every other electronic on the boat is off 


    Ok, that's good, just trying to go through the list of potential issues. I have a larger Lowrance GPS/ fishfinder combo unit and I run a smaller cheap Eagle fish finder for passengers to look at. My Eagle was acting up in a similar way as yours....starts out fine, then freaks out in deeper water. Was working fine in years past. I determined that the transducer was bad. Maybe try another transducer - if you have access to one. And also the power test direct to a battery.
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