@rolmops of it were your choice knowing the fact that I've tried a different EZ bar configuration every year for the last 7 years and always eventually had issues - is my best alternate to just do the 2nd cylinder and liquid tie bar?
@rolmops Yeah I was kinda leaning towards this option. Not sure what SeaStar ram would fit the yahama 9.9 though. Then I would also need to run extra hoses and a liquid tie bar.
Was down at the boat today and disconnected the EZ-Steer bar from the main motor.
Swung it over so that it is parallel to the transom. It better aligns with the trailing end of the main.
So my options are:
Drill out and make a mounting point on the tail end of the main.
Go full hydraulic with a ram on the kicker a liquid tie bar like this
https://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/seastar-ha5471-2-liquid-tiebar-valve.html?srsltid=AfmBOoq8QcfQ3pvDnlugZGYprTL6YURraKGO1BlN-aGFbkalOSEzyuoh
Sorry for the long post but could use some advice regarding steering of my kicker from the seasoned pros here.
Looking for advice on on a better steering setup for my kicker motor. I tend to troll only on the kicker and the Yamaha 9.9 cab push my 25ft boat up to 6 mph.
I converted the cable steering with a wheel pilot auto to a full hydraulic setup last year with a Raymarine pump and SeaStar ram and helm which are hooked to the main motor.
I still steered the kicker via the EZ-Steer bar to the kicker, but when things go bad....they go bad and you end up limiting out the auto pilot and/or spinning in circles.
Basically what happens is the bar will on occasion not pull or push like it should and slip the detents. Even with a replacement bar and new detents it still just randomly goes haywire.
I've already disconnected the throttle cables (I just use a servo for throttle) and shift cable so the kicker can turn free as can be.
Looking for a better way to steer my kicker when I'm running on the kicker only and have it still interface with my Raymarine equipment.
Any ideas? Add hydraulics to the kicker?
Current autopilot setup:
Raymarine EV-200 autopilot
Raymarine P70R contoll head unit
Raymarine m81120 Type 1 pump
SeaStar HC5328-3 Cylinder
SeaStar 2.4 Help HH5272-3
Boat Specs
25ft 1989 Cobia fiberglass
Full hydraulic steering conversion hooked to Alpha One Gen 1 I/0
Yamaha extra long shaft 9.9 high thrust kicker tied to main with EZ-Steer bar
Large lot of Evil Eye - Red Eye spoons Large Lot x 36 $100 shipped
Evil Eye Standard 3 3/4" x 16
Evil Eye Standard 2 7/8 x 16
Evil Eye Narrow 4.5" x 2
Evil Eye Narrow 3.75 x 2
By the way, it wasnt an issue with the bar coming apart. It was an issue turning left and the bar slipping and the main not being able to "push" the kicker to the side.
@PD Buoy well i figured out the problem. The detents on the bar (the brass nubs that actually grab the bar) are completely trashed. They were worn down to nothing. I guess I did get 5 years of trolling out of it. So the option is to buy a replacement bar (you can buy a detent kit but the bar has a lot of wear) or since I converted my main Alpha drive to hydraulic, figure out how to add hydraulic to the kicker. Would have to figure out how to switch the kicker hydraulics on/off though I think.
5.7 Mercruiser with an Alpha 1 drive. Hooked into a 9.9 Yamaha high thrust (with power tilt) that is on a fixed motor bracket.
I've always had issues with being able to steer with just the kicker and have made adjustments over the years. I even went as far as disconnecting the throttle and shift cable from kicker since I control it with an iTroll anyways.
This year I converted over my steering to full hydraulic on the main and went from a Raymarine Wheel Pilot to a Type 1 pump. It steers the main really well. However, I keep on getting hitting the limit when its trying to steer the kicker. It will work fine for awhile and then randomly hit the lock. So the main is hitting the limit lock and isnt pushing the kicker far enough over. I would assume this is happening because the bar is sliding instead of pushing it like it should. With the kicker being high thrust and it pushing a 26' boat, there is a fair amount of torque on the kicker.
So should I just keep on cranking the bar down tighter so that it cant slip? Or should I just figure out how to add hydraulics to the kicker and call it a day?
I've had my 26ft fiberglass boat for 10 years now. This is my first year on jackstands instead of a trailer for winter storage. So I decided this year to sand the decades of random ablative paint off and took it down to the bare gelcoat. I'm going to do a few layers of Interprotect 2000e as a barrier coat and then new ablative paint. Do you think bottom paint color matters for trolling? Does anyone thing blue is better than black?
Yeah that would be awesome if you could look to see what helm you have installed.
I already had a EV-200 with the newer Sport Pilot installed - the one they dont sell or even service anymore.
You run a I/O with a kicker tied to the outdrive right?
I'm leaning more towards going full hydraulic now. Since I troll on my kicker with the main shutoff (power steering pump not running), should I look at cylinders that will completely eliminate the power assist system?
Yeah thats what Im thinking my top 2 options are right now.
Octopus drive and a new set of cables.
or
New helm, steering cylinder, and type 1 pump.
Going Octopus and new set of cables is probably cheaper, but I really want what is going to give me the best performance while trolling at 2mph. Anyone with experience what is the better setup performance wise?