Large lot of Evil Eye - Red Eye spoons Large Lot x 36 $100 shipped
Evil Eye Standard 3 3/4" x 16
Evil Eye Standard 2 7/8 x 16
Evil Eye Narrow 4.5" x 2
Evil Eye Narrow 3.75 x 2
By the way, it wasnt an issue with the bar coming apart. It was an issue turning left and the bar slipping and the main not being able to "push" the kicker to the side.
@PD Buoy well i figured out the problem. The detents on the bar (the brass nubs that actually grab the bar) are completely trashed. They were worn down to nothing. I guess I did get 5 years of trolling out of it. So the option is to buy a replacement bar (you can buy a detent kit but the bar has a lot of wear) or since I converted my main Alpha drive to hydraulic, figure out how to add hydraulic to the kicker. Would have to figure out how to switch the kicker hydraulics on/off though I think.
5.7 Mercruiser with an Alpha 1 drive. Hooked into a 9.9 Yamaha high thrust (with power tilt) that is on a fixed motor bracket.
I've always had issues with being able to steer with just the kicker and have made adjustments over the years. I even went as far as disconnecting the throttle and shift cable from kicker since I control it with an iTroll anyways.
This year I converted over my steering to full hydraulic on the main and went from a Raymarine Wheel Pilot to a Type 1 pump. It steers the main really well. However, I keep on getting hitting the limit when its trying to steer the kicker. It will work fine for awhile and then randomly hit the lock. So the main is hitting the limit lock and isnt pushing the kicker far enough over. I would assume this is happening because the bar is sliding instead of pushing it like it should. With the kicker being high thrust and it pushing a 26' boat, there is a fair amount of torque on the kicker.
So should I just keep on cranking the bar down tighter so that it cant slip? Or should I just figure out how to add hydraulics to the kicker and call it a day?
I've had my 26ft fiberglass boat for 10 years now. This is my first year on jackstands instead of a trailer for winter storage. So I decided this year to sand the decades of random ablative paint off and took it down to the bare gelcoat. I'm going to do a few layers of Interprotect 2000e as a barrier coat and then new ablative paint. Do you think bottom paint color matters for trolling? Does anyone thing blue is better than black?
Yeah that would be awesome if you could look to see what helm you have installed.
I already had a EV-200 with the newer Sport Pilot installed - the one they dont sell or even service anymore.
You run a I/O with a kicker tied to the outdrive right?
I'm leaning more towards going full hydraulic now. Since I troll on my kicker with the main shutoff (power steering pump not running), should I look at cylinders that will completely eliminate the power assist system?
Yeah thats what Im thinking my top 2 options are right now.
Octopus drive and a new set of cables.
or
New helm, steering cylinder, and type 1 pump.
Going Octopus and new set of cables is probably cheaper, but I really want what is going to give me the best performance while trolling at 2mph. Anyone with experience what is the better setup performance wise?
I was also look at that. However, the steering cables are also 30+ years old. Would the autopilot control physically move the wheel with the Octopus drive?
I think one already came with the old kit. Does it really add anything besides it knowing the actual position of the rudder? Right now the I already have speed feedback since its hooked up to a Raymarine MFD. That way the autopilot knows how hard to correct and it also uses the data from the multi axis puck.
Yeah I think will be around $2000 for the pump/helm/ram. I would think I would still need a hydraulic system of some sort if I just did AP on the kicker with my current setup.
Currently run a Raymarine EV-200 with Sport Drive Wheel Pilot package (T70159) for auto pilot. The Sport Drive wheel pilot is going on 6 years old now and is starting to slip. Looking to see what my options are. Go full hydraulic or something else?
EV-200
EV1 Sensor Core
ACU-200
p70R Autopilot Control Head
Sport Drive wheel pilot
All networked with a Raymaine A77 and Axiom MFD.
Boat is a 89 cobia. 26ft cuddy with a Mercruiser 5.7 with a Alpha One Gen 1 outdrive.
Boat is currently cable steer with power steering assist on the main.
Newer Yamaha high thrust 9.9 extra long shaft kicker tied to the main outdrive with a ez-steer rod.
Salmon trolling at 1.8 to 3.5 mph using just the kicker without the main motor running. So Sport Pilot physically turns the wheel which turns the outdrive which turns the kicker via the ez-steer rod.
I use the autopilot for motoring out to the fishing spot and for trolling.
The Sport Pilots are no longer sold or serviced.
So what are my options?
Just go full hydraulic and continue to steer the main which is then linked to the kicker? I assume that would include purchasing a type 1 pump and then a new helm and ram in the rear?
Any other options?
Thank you ahead of time for any info you can provide.
Is there any difference with the actual display unit? I've upgraded fish hawks multiple times through the years, had warranty fixes, and even had to buy an entire unit just to use the display for a week while mine was out for repair. Right now I'm running a X4D. So I've probably put about $3k into fish hawks for the years Im looking at maybe getting the new probe and just wondering if there is any benefit to upgrading to the new display?
Didnt watch the video, but I see that they new probes on the website. The new lithium probe compatible with the X4D is up to $499 for just the probe.
Its getting more butt-clenching every year to send that probe down multiple times a day
Do they still make Wolverine Silver Streak spoons? Looking to pickup a bunch of their glow back spoons and having trouble tracking down a reliable source.