vetting

Just have reels with specific length and have a set of rods that you can easily swap different reels on them. For all of my leadcore and weighted steel I have 6 Okuma CPLC-70CT rods. The last time I got a 4 pack of them for $75. They eyelets are larger to allow large knots through. Just reel the swivel right through them and slap a different reel on. I run a max of 3 per side on boards and just swap the reels that I want onto the rods.

Just run the normal hot water lines off the unit to the heater core and place the heater core right in the cabin. All its really doing is blowing hot air over a coil that is warmed by the engine water.

Upgrade drags on newer Daiwa Seagates and Sealines? Due to the lack of safe ice in Wisconsin I've been hunting around for deals on reels and have amassed a bunch of new daiwa reels. I ran the 4 of the newer Seagates (orange body) and Sealines (all black body) reel last year. Before I realized it, adding reels one by one over the last 2 months I ended up with a total of 15 reels. Only the seagates come stock with carbon drags. The drags are ok when fighting a fish, but I dont like them when Im setting up inline boards. The drags seem to be more difficult to get set properly. On my other reels the line pulls out nice and easy when you pull on it by hand but dont leak line every time a board hits a wave. On the sealines and seagates, it seem like I have to crank the drags down a lot tighter in order to get them to not leak line. I was thinking about doing the drags myself. So just let me know if you think replacing the drags would improve what I mentioned above. I'd just have Tuna do them but that would be almost $400....so going to try to tackle this one myself if upgrading the drags is worth it.

I did a ton of research on this subject and the general consensus was that at trolling speeds they just dont produce heat. Better off just running a buddy heater - just dont pass out

One of the best purchases beside autopilot for my boat. I have the X4D version - I had the red screen one (the one they changed the next season which kinda ticked me off) and then sold the display and got the newer blue screen one with surface speed added back. During a 9 day tournament it helped us put 200 fish in the boat during those 9 days. A lot of guys were struggling on certain days and we found that 2.7 to 3.1 on the fishhwawk was the secret. Granted it tends to read a bit faster than other speed systems, but it was definitely faster than we normally run. We let some people in on the secret and they started catching fish. With any speed probe, its all about finding what speed works for a given day and then being able to duplicate it over and over again.

So are you trying to build that one crazy rig they showed on youtube?

Ordered some of these to try https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BHVSZLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I rarely ever pump a rod on a large fish. What I usually do is walk backwards 10 feet with the rod tip up and then reel as I walk back forward. Wash, rinse, repeat until the fish is in the boat. With a faster retrieve ratio I can walk forward faster and get more line in on the fish.

So as I add to my arsenal of leadcore/copper/weighted steel reels, I need something to hang them from. I have a smaller cabin and I leave a minimal amount of rods on board and then swap the reels onto the rods for the setup I need for that day. Is there something that I can mount to a board and clip the reels into? Something almost like the when you clip them too the actual rod. Any suggestions?

I've been slowly adding more and more 6.1 ratio reels to the mix. Right now I have 6 of them and for my 7, 8, 9, 10 leadcore and for some riggers. Its still not the greatest when something hits the 10 color, but its way better than before. Just wanted to see if you anyone else has any comments/thoughts on using higher ratio reels. The reel are a mix of Daiwa Sealine SLW60H and SLW60H as wells as Seagate SLW60H.

So did anyone use the new Torpedo Weighted Steel line this year? Any feedback? I have 10 leadcore rods (1 through 10) and thinking about adding either copper or weighted steel to the mix next year.

Yeah they obviously all come from China. In order to be UV it must have a wavelength between 100 to 380 nm. The issue is that real UV leds are crazy expensive so you have to get ones that are right on the edge of UV. Something in the UVA range of 315–400nm. The amazon one is 395 nm. There is a big difference in the charging of purple and blue spoons and getting an extended softer glow on green spoons when you are talking about individual flashlights. If it is over 400nm, dont buy it. If it doesnt even list the wavelength, definitely dont by it.

Be really careful saving a few bucks and getting one of the Chinese multiple color flashlights. They claim they are UV leds in there, but they arent really since they dont have the correct spectrum/wavelength. Better off getting an actual UV flashlight off of amazon. Just because they are purple, it doesnt mean its really UV.

I have a ranger net since I started Salmon fishing on Lake Michigan 4 years ago. In that it has netted over 1500 fish and has been cut multiple times when trying to get a fish out quickly with the hooks in the netting. Countless newbies lifting fish straight up trying to bend the darn thing. With all of that abuse, it just has a few zip ties in the the actual netting where we cut it and thats it. Its not bent even wish lifting 25lb fish straight up. Its not corroded even though we leave it out in the elements 8 months out of the year. No issues with the netting except were we cut it. Cant top that for durability.

Are there 2 pieces of glass and one is currently broken? I had that situation so I took the good one out and took it to a glass shop and they made a mirror image of that one for less than $200 and it was a special order vintage green tint glass.

UV flashlight from amazon - this is the one I use. Its the only thing that will charge up purple glow spoons the way they should be. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTGMSGI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So why are you shutting the engine off when getting to your spot? How long is it shut off when you have trouble restarting it? It could also be that the fuel in the carb bowl is too hot - a spacer between the intake and the carb will fix that.

In Milwaukee people bottle fish on the long cement piers that go out into Lake Michigan. 1) catch alewife 2) cast out as far as you can on a 3 way swivel 3) leave the bail open on the real 4) fill empty glass beer bottle with water 1/3 of the way 5) wrap the line around the top of the bottle and lay the rod down 6) wait for the clank clank There are also some boat guys in the area that will often troll to find a hot spot and then jig with large gulp minnows in that area.